Jez Morton

Other side of engine. I'm thinking a bit of heat may have helped it on its way. I never seen a car so rotted away there's next to nothing left.

I think its a Fiesta, is this a Ford engine.

Could be. Here's another pic.

From another angle.

Was out for a wander and came across this. Can anyone guess what it was?

I used vac advance running twin40s on my old rh (single take off), you need a non return valve in the vac line or the dizzy rattles like the bottom ends gone. Trust me that was a a moment of panic.

This came as part of my kit, it does what it needs to do which is cover edges for IVA. I would say it's tricky to get the cuts right around the roll bars and you do need to fill in the middle. I used some 2mm aluminium which I formed to match the rear profile/overhang of the grp. It started of painted Oxford blue but when I changed to orange I wrapped with orange 3d effect vinyl.

My modded sump to the design with the rhs extension is 3.6litres to full on dip stick. Strangely I only get 3 out when I change it?

If you can get a ring it might be able an option to replace the worn brushes in the contacts I have.

I'll be up for this, wake me up nearer the time though.

Just had quick search, looks like your looking for rocking horse poop. Can't believe when I built mine i got new carbon contacts from Ford and now there's nothing? I do have the old contacts but they where too worn to reach the slip ring in my Mountney wheel. You can get old MG or triumph rings and spring contacts easily enough, they might be possible to adapt but they are single pole so you would need to earth through column?

You could try Gbs, or maybe ebay I've seen panels come up before. Fitting isn't a massive headache, lots of clamps and rivets, hard part is forming top corners if its stainless.

I would tin the wire strands and make sure there's no strain or movement on the wire, the screw would do more damage to the wire strands than anything else. Altenatively you could try insulted pin terminals or bootlace ferrules, but both require crimping.

Looks like I got a night off dads taxi service so should be there.

Thanks really appreciate it.

I need a set of runners and will be at EOSB, how much do you want for them.

Are you checking the wires between left and right switches, there should be a wire joining the light switch to the main beam flash switch. Might be white with black trace. This will stay live with headlamps on while the flasher switch activates main beam and turns off dip. On later cars its a small brown/black wire which is switched to earth as relays where added to the lights.

The basic Ford set up has an oil separator which looks like the red part but it has one hose attached via a push in pcv. This hose is usually connected to the inlet manifold to draw fumes out of the crank case. If your using a catch tank, make sure there is no valve in the system that would let pressure build before you connect to catch tank. I don't know that oil seperator/ pcv setup, it could be top hose is pcv and bottom is direct to crank case perhaps for the filler breather. I'm sure someone will be along soon who knows better than I do.

Usually you can set the tdc and cam then just withdraw the dizzy and refit in correct orientation. You still need to time it correctly afterwards but you should be close and have room to adjust.

Normally the vacuum in the manifold is used to draw gases from the block and burn them through the engine. It may be easier to go back to a standard Ford setup. When I fitted DCOEs on my old kit that chucked oil out of the filler, this was due to to the breather having a valve where it meets the engine allowing the crank to pressurise. I cut the end off to remove the valve and spring and fed to a catch tank.

Last I heard you have to pre purchase a ticket to get access for C&M. May have changed now but worth checking.

I beg to differ, I use 15W40 in my pinto and have done for over 10 years with no issues.

It has front double wishbones so is 2B Plus.

I found with mine the tube didnt protrude through the plate enough to make a good seal it touches but doesn't compress. I added a layer of rubber to the cap using 1mm nitrile rubber cut to fit and glued on. I would have adjusted the flange if the car wasn't built. I dont think the flange has anything to do with sealing, the seal on the cap is spring loaded and seals on the tube end. I'm not sure how accurately these parts are made so you may need to test first and decide if the flange needs to be adjusted.

Going from an S7 to a 2B myself I can tell you it is bigger and stronger, noticeably stiffer chassis. I have Corbeau seats in the the 2B which fit but they cannot go very far forward due to the tunnel shape and the front of the seat being 52cm wide. I have the driver's seat as far forward as I can get it and its just right for me , but I am 6'. My S7 had mini cub seats from MWS which fitted fine 40cm? wide, but they didn't have head rests which I would want now for safety.