richardm6994

I can say that nothing deliberate has changed so something else must be amiss

Just to let everyone know, as well as the catering van (same people as last year) being at the event, we've also arranged for Beer to be available. We'll be putting on a barrel of Best Bitter and a barrel of Pale Ale. £1.50 per pint

they are tight. Mines an exmo not a 2b. I have to remove the crank pulley and front timing cover to get mine in / out.

Dan, putting a round peice of ali plate with a hole in positioned where the stat goes stands a much better chance of solving your problem properly than putting the stat back in or fitting the bypass hose. And you'll still have full temp control via the ewp and controller thus the ewp exercise won't be semi-pointless.

Nigel's suggestion above of fitting a plate with a hole in it where the stat should be located is a pretty good idea and easy to try..... That's the route I'd be following

Monday 18th Sept 7pm onwards Thorntree Pub 161 Church Street Waingroves Ripley DE59TE

Bob, the way my controller works (assuming the newer ones are the same); below 75degC, the pump just pulses on/off (0v, 6v) Between 75degC and the set temp, (80,85,90,95) the controller varys the speed of the pump by increasing the voltage to it from 6v up to 12v If you get above the set point, the controller sends a voltage (via a relay) to the electric fan. To be overcooling, the ewp115 pump is pumping more water, even at 6v, than the engine needs. The possible solutions I can see are to add the stat back into the system (which still has a question mark hanging over it because of what I've read about the raceline water rails also causing overcooling issues), a smaller pump (ewp80) so that it moves less water at 6v......... or (and I'm not sure how this would be achieved), find a way of making the pump go even slower by reducing the voltage to it, say 4v-10v varying?

From our texts yesterday and Nigel's post above (which is spot on and the same as I was explaining yesterday) I'm starting to think the ewp115 pump is too big for your engine? So even at the slowest speed on the pump via the controller, this is still too fast for your engine? I have the ewp115 on the v8 and it maintains temp perfectly. They sell a smaller pump, the ewp80 which will have a lower water flow rate at its slowest speed than the ewp115. Thinking back, I'm sure I rear somewhere when buying my pump that the ewp80 was advised for 4 cylinder engines and the ewp115 is for 6 and 8 pots.

Flycutting cuts a flat surface across a face, boring creates holes.

it certainly does Bob! and a lot more accurate. It's the engine-side flange of a bellhouse I'm fabricating for the Lotus 23 project

My weekend was boring

sorry - I read that completely wrong (was thinking the diameter of the gearbox spigot)

I seem to remember it's 15mm. I can check tonight if no one else confirms.

Yep - Monday 18th sept. I'll be posting a bit nearer the time

out of interest what did you record there?

Crank it up to 14psi.......it's only a couple more psi......what's the worse that could happen

LOL - I spoke at great length with Dale at Baileys and he was the one who first told me 11psi is the safe limit, with occasional peaks at 12psi. I've also spoken to a guy at TTS performance and they said 10-11psi is the safe limit and told me 12psi peaks were risky. not that greater boost on a standard engine has ever mattered to me as the most form my chargers has been 11psi anyway

how about stick a cheap RV8 in and keep the good one?

yeah but you was running about 800bhp!!!

I dunno about the zetec's bhp limit, however 11psi (on the limit of boost) on Dan's saw 241.6bhp

Be mindful that you can only boost up to 11 psi on a standard n/a zetec. Any higher and you need to up rate internals

These are the selector cable mounts; One cable mounted; Second cable mounted; And that's the gearbox selector end done. Doesn't look a lot but there was a lot of head scratching between each stage lol! The selector cables are Ford Focus diesel - relatively cheap and each to source (in case they snap down the line and replacements are needed) Next job is more head scratching and figure out how to bolt the zetec to the box!

Another build thread, but this time not a supercharger. Femi has kindly given the privilege to build his lotus 23. The car will have a zetec engine and a Quaife 6 speed transaxle gearbox. We'll also be having a open rear wheel arches which I think came about on the 23c's. So until the car is complete, I'll just leave this pic as inspiration; And this is my start point; I've got to start somewhere, and so I decided the gearbox selector levers seemed as good a place as any. This is the gearbox selector shaft. It moves in/out and rotates up/down in 7 different combinations to select the 6 speeds plus reverse. And here is a months worth of head scratching and machining all in one photo; Side bracket bolted to the gearbox; Pull In/out Lever (which pivots on a roller bearing) and the brass selector block. Rotate up/down lever clamped to the gearbox selector rod - note this will be pinned later down the line; The reverse gear gate. In this position, it acts as a stop to position the rotating lever in the right place for 1st and 2nd gear. And then when the stop is lifted (Bowden cable coming tomorrow) it allows the lever to rotate further for reverse gear to be selected;

Anyone coming please don't be put off by the road closed signs, just drive through them as local access still allowed

Just passed another mot so the kit will be there tonight!