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brumster

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by brumster

  1. Here you go! CL reference is the tab on the back of the dashboard/scuttle. All measurements are mm. One thing I would say is remember there's a certain amount of adjustment in the wiper blade (for me at least) they can be varied in length and bent (and they needed it!)
  2. I'll do it tomorrow for you
  3. brumster

    Newbie 2B

    We had an Exmo with a rolling-road confirmed 130bhp Pinto. On a 4 speed box it did 0-60 in just under 7 seconds, measured with a proper acceleration timer that RHOCaR had (done at a Curborough track day, hot day, dry, good conditions and good launch). So, I'm afraid, if you're dreaming of a sub-5 second performance, dream on People's definitions of fast are different. Even my current Zero (180ish bhp, a whole load lighter and with a proper 6 speed gearbox) I do not consider "fast".
  4. Ah ok yeah, they're a bit cheaper....!
  5. At £36 per sq/m I'd politely disagree!
  6. I put resincoat epoxy on mine which is fantastic BUT... i) I had the luxury of having put down fresh concrete so I know it was clean ii) it's hard work cleaning the dust off the floor beforehand ii) it is hard work spreading it on quick enough before it sets I recommend it but you'd need a clean floor beforehand... you can get big surface-grinder style polishers that can take a layer of concrete off but then it's get even more expensive ...
  7. brumster

    Speedo

    I'd agree, it just looks like an earth tab for if you're using a backlight and the clock isn't mounted into something conductive (say a plastic/grp dashboard). Not essential for it functioning as a speedo.
  8. I made mine, measured and planned the system out, ordered the various sections from https://www.304stainlessexhaustparts.com who cut and swaged everything to order (very helpful). I handled the kink in the body at the scuttle by just cutting and welding the section between the cat and the silencer at an angle. What I would say is, just get someone to weld it for you - my welding isn't up to the standard I'd want for an exhaust (and I don't have any stainless wire either!) so I tacked it up with mild on the car, then took the entire thing to a mate who did it for me and spotted him some beer tokens. I'm sure you can find somewhere that would do that for you. No-one would make me an exhaust off design, they all wanted the car (even if I said I absolve them of blame if it doesn't fit!) and on top of that they wanted stupid £££ for the task so in the end I did it myself and am very happy with the result.
  9. Yes, I have a very specific gearbox oil and it's different to diff *but* that's for a type 9, not an MT75. MT75 might be the same but I can't speak from experience...
  10. Cool, ok, so you're getting lights, a wiring loom, a radiator, shocks/springs, a dashboard and a set of suspension bolts in addition to the base kit. If you're happy with all of those it works, obviously the wiring loom is specific to the car so provided you had no plans to do anything weird and wonderful (different engine, different switchgear and so forth) it shouldn't be a problem - at most you might me modifying it slightly if you decided to do something different, it's not the end of the world. There are some options you can look at and decide whether you can source them separately (seat belts, seats, gauges, fuel tank, handbrake, exhaust, carpets), windscreen and all associated bracketry, wipers, etc or source them from GBS/Kitspares while you're at it. Nelmo's spreadsheet is a good reminder of all the consumable and "gotchas" that you need to buy... I think the main thing I was trying to get out was, it's easy to think about the large items like seats, engine, wheels, tyres but don't forget - consumable like rivets, nuts, bolts, clips, cable ties, jubillee clips, exhaust clamps, hose (custom water hoses aren't cheap), fluids - services (reconditioning, painting, or whatever) - route replacement items (clutch, brake pads, discs, you might decide you don't trust the donor calipers for example) You'll not want the default fuel tank solution from GBS so you'll need to factor in either the costs of a separate swirl pot, or else modifying the tank to take a better combined pump+swirl pot. Personally, in hindsight, I would just get a custom tank fabricated. Also don't forget to factor in the IVA costs and all that shizzle !
  11. Just for the avoidance of doubt, which offering are you looking at from GBS? The Starter self-build kit or the Upgrade Plus kit? Are you just going off their website, I take it?
  12. I think you're right, I have every single receipt for the build of mine and a partial spreadsheet but I'm not necessarily willing to share it - but also, there are so many aspects specific to a how a builder does his/her car that some of it would be irrelevant. For example, to take one part, I spent £800-odd on a high-end instrument cluster but some people might be perfectly happy with the Sierra jobbies... so many aspects come down to how much someone is willing to spend, gives you that massive variance in price. I also did some stuff around engine building that would have cost thousands of pounds with a reputable engine builder, and all it cost me was my time and a few beer tokens. So it's hard to draw direct comparisons, I think. Every build is unique (which is stating the obvious, I know). Builder skill levels can also be a factor - some people might be able to do one aspect themselves where someone else needs to pay a 3rd party to do something for them... more £££ spent There's then stuff like tools you might buy to do the job. Consumables like nuts, bolts, washers, wiring, connectors, clips, flatting wheels, cutting discs, paint, yada yada. One thing I will say is you'd be surprised how the costs build up for even the small things like replacement parts (bearings, fluids, hoses, etc).... GBS are basically saying 9k to 14k for a build, including everything, which sounds about right to me. To make a budget car with the bare essentials, not splashing out on anything fancy, 9k sounds about right (without making an absolute snotter). If you're splashing out for a high-end build - fancy wheels, tyres, tuned engine, uprated brakes, fancy gearbox, fancy LED lights, painted/wrapped panels, fancy suspension - then you're more up to the 14k mark. You could break that too if you're going for something really special
  13. Pink Sunshine - (We've got a) Fuzzbox (and we're gonna use it)
  14. brumster

    Fuel Tank Leak

    Agreed, if it happens without the car moving it might be that the hose has perished where it connects onto the sender/pickup/return and is just leaking...
  15. Same here - WfH before this whole business so no bloody change for me
  16. I've only used ones you can't get any more so I'll bow out of this conversation well, except R888's, but I wouldn't really rate them for the road. Ok for perfectly dry conditions but need a bit of heat in them, you have to be sensible with them.
  17. I'm not sure, but I'd have thought holding the release plate in that position for a long time would/could deform the fingers (take the 'spring' out of them)?
  18. Next time I get a Type 9 to rebuild I think I'm going to video the whole process and upload it, suspect it would be useful!
  19. FWIW, Halfords have a 20% sale on most of their Advanced range at the moment...
  20. Oh wait a minute... <laughs> are you just trying to pull the input shaft out without taking the rest of the gearbox apart? That's not possible I'm afraid, it'll be meshed in with the layshaft and I suspect you'll most likely will need to drop the layshaft to get the input shaft out. Take the top cover off and you should be able to verify. If you're just after swapping the bearing, and I've not done or tried this, so I'm unsure - but I guess you could try and slide it off the input shaft and out of the casing with the input shaft still in situ, but I bet that's going to be fun to do :). I just can't see you having enough room to get a puller in on the back of it, or tap it out, or anything really you'd probably still need most of the selector mechanism out of the way to get at it, wouldn't you? You might be better/safer just disassembling the selector mechanism and gearbox and doing it with it all out. For gawds sake just don't lose all the roller pins at the front when you pull out the layshaft
  21. Yes, there's a circlip on the front if I remember rightly <in fact, I just looked in the Haynes, yes there is>. I seem to recall once removed, the bearing comes out pretty easily to be honest, I don't think you'll need a press, maybe at most just a tap from a soft-faced hammer...
  22. Cool, have fun! Looks like it has the usual sagged doors and horrendous panel gaps on the boot, although thankfully the bonnet (normall the worst culprit) looks pretty good. They are very fussy on suspension geometry (ride height) and the back end will feel awful if any bushes are worn. There are some void bushes in the lower wishbones which GTM used to sell replacement bushes that were solid (no void) to improve taughtness on the back end. It is worth it, there is nothing more horrible than feeling rear wheel steering when you don't want it Mechanically they're solid, though, the 1.4 K-Series is pretty bulletproof but check the cooling on it - make sure it warms up quickly but also keeps cool if left ticking over. They suffer the usual problem of a badly designed cooling system as per the MGF (not meant for long runs to the front) so a remote thermostat fix is common. Even just a tiny 4mm bleed hole drilled into the thermostat outer can work wonders! A lot of people just pulled the thermostat out but this meant the things took forever to warm up and never ran at temperature. Gear level mechanism will possibly feel crap. It can be improved but it will never feel light and slick. Clutch can be heavy too with the long cable run, particularly in the cable has been kinked tightly. Clutch cables snapping was common place. Many converted to hydraulic, they were so sick of it Not the most watertight of roofs either, and while torsion rigidity was improved over the Mk.II Rossa (I had one of those beforehand) there is still quite a lot of scuttle shake with the roof off!
  23. So I built a K3 in '95, if you have any questions just PM me what reg is it, do you know the history/who built it? The then-owners of GTM, Paddy and Peter, were both tall guys (Paddy in particular) so you almost certainly should be able to get in one don't worry.
  24. Which GTM (I've had 2 over the years)?
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