steve in stockport

Sunglasses, baseball cap and squint usually does the job.

It's not a Sierra, if it's Ford based it may be an Escort or similar, rotating end for interval puts it in the 90s somewhere. I might be able to get hold of a Ka stalk that may do the job.

Stop moaning you great tart!

It's a guy called Chris C, not seen a post but it's there at the bottom of the status updates at the right of the screen.

As per email earlier I'm working all day on Sunday so I won't be able to get there. Might get out for a couple of hours tomorrow though if we aren't out firefighting all night.

Correct Bob, centre mirror not required if you can achieve the fields of view with the side mirrors.

It's not about the height it's the field of view they give. Have a look at the iva manual and see the requirements for size, fields of view and number of mirrors, you'll need a centre mirror too.

If you're going to use flexible pipe throughout make sure you get the right grade. You'll want at least R9 spec as any other will degrade, harden and smell with modern unleaded fuel

Got your address Barry, once the passes come I'll send them out to you guys and then you just need to turn up at Tatton Park.

That's not the correct bolt for there. Should be a much shorter M12 used to pinch the hub to the strut in the Sierra or the dummy strut in the kit car. No nut fitted in original installation but no harm in fitting one if you're worried about it coming undone.

The early spaceframe has the wheel carrier hoop welded to the rest of the chassis at the back,on the one I had hold of the hoop was just bolted under the folded sheet material and I'm guessing most other monos are like that

If it is a spaceframe model you will be able to see this in the engine bay. The spaceframe chassis was made from square and round tube around 3/4" 20mm size. This is a full chassis and includes the back of the car and a spare wheel carrier similar to the 2B. The part space frame/part monocoque, one of which I had hold of a couple of years ago has the spaceframe from the front to base of the seat back panel, from there back it is folded and welded stainless sheet with no tubing or box section present. The mono version is all folded and welded sheet material with just the Dolomite subframe fixed to the front. The steering geometry is compromised by the way in which the subframe is welded in place, but there is a work around for this and I think I may still have the document for that. Chassis number was usually made up by the builder so there's no real way to trace it back .

There were three body varients on the Dolomite based S7, a spaceframe with stainless body panels, a part spaceframe with a monocoque type rear end and then the full monocoque. Each will have their own faults, all had part of the dolomite front subframe grafted onto the front with it's suspension and steering attached. Unless you are dead set on this one I'd be tempted to look out for a later model as Sierra parts are already becoming rarer so you'll really struggle for 40 odd year old Triumph parts.

I think the single entry forms will end up with you parked with the individual exhibitors. Ring or text the mobile number and ask them to add you to the Robin Hood Owners Club and Register RHOCAR group. They'll be able to tell you if you need to fill in a form or not.

Dean as above all the paperwork has been sent off. Follow the link in the initial post for a contact number for the organisers and ask them to add you to the Robin Hood Owners Club list. There's another show in August that I'll be applying for soon if they can't fit you in.

Unlucky Dan, brings back memories of last year for me. Hopefully you'll get it sorted soon but them silver tops seem to be getting harder to find.

As Duck said there may be an ignition advance/temperature compensation table in the map that is written wrong but probably not. The engine is your unknown spare, was it fully rebuilt? Was the crank checked for oval it, bearing clearances checked with plastigauge or similar? A bearing running tight when hot? Excess under bonnet temp or heat soak from the charger and intercooler?

This weekend's tinkering involved filling the tank with 99ron and driving until most of it was gone.

Yes, lightweight avoid at all costs

Nice day today so got out and about in the kit. It's the first time this year I haven't had to wash it when I got home, no mud, salt or rain around today.

Thanks for the interest folks, paperwork and list for passes has now been sent, 21 weekend passes, 1 Saturday only and 4 Sunday only so we should be able to put on a good show. I think I have most people addresses for delivery of your pass, but Fozzie, Barry and Mark B can you send me yours via PM as I don't have yours. If I find any others I don't have I'll let you know.

Araldite will do it

Original bike carbon rubbers are the best solution, but if they aren't available the brackets are next. I ended up with a bracket at each end of the carbs fixed under the manifold nuts. Some people have even glued the hose to the carbs and used the jubilee clips as a secondary fix, which is ok as long as your hose is fully fuel proof.

Don't forget you can use direct debit now,ok you pay a bit more but you can keep on the road until the weather really changes for the worse and then cancel your direct debit.

1.8 is too big from my experience. I had 1.7mm mains and the needles ended up being one notch down front the top with 5 notches on the needle. I think you'll have to ask on a bike forum about float height but so long as the floats and valves are in good condition and working properly you should be okay.