agent_zed

Same as Florin i used the sierra matrix and half the sierra fan. The advantage for me being that i had the sierra wiring loom so everything just wired up as before. I made a new box though for the matrix out of a microwave outer casing if i remember correctly a couple of bits of 2inch waste pipe and some vacuum hose sorted the vents. I've only got demist at the moment so at some point i need to add some more vents so it actually heats me up. I imagine with a roof/doors it would get plenty hot enough. Not sure what price they are but aldi are doing heated seat pads at the moment. On a different note i just bought a battery charger from aldi for £12.99. Only just connected it so don't know how good it will be but it's meant to be an automatic jobby which switches to trickle charge etc and has an lcd screen. at some point i might actually get to drive my 2b this winter...

well ideally you don't want to enlarge the holes so anything that isn't harder than the brass but is enough to dislodge any blockage. Someone might have a better answer but i've used a piece of thin wire before now. The holes are pretty small so the wire will have to obviously fit. I've used electrical cable as it's copper so not harder than the brass. Multi-strand cables will have smaller wire. Just cut a short length and strip off the plastic casing. Or a piece of nylon like a bristle off a brush. Or you could drop it into some carb cleaner and leave it for a bit but that still might not completely shift it so i've always cleaned mechanically as above. Just don't mix them all up as they have to go back in the same order

hahaha 'HTH' is forum abbreviation for 'hope that helps' not my name Sorry i spend too much time on the internet. either way hopefully it was in some part useful. I'm interested to know your story as Hawaii is one of the last places i'd expect to find a 7. Is it s 'Robin hood' or something else? did you build it/import it?

what carb have you got on there? the standard twin choke downdraught webber is easy to remove the jets. just take the air filter off and you can look down a gap in between the chokes and see 4 brass screws. 2 are jets and 2 are emulsion tubes. just unscrew (don't mix them up) and clean each one. The ends pull off each. Hold it up to light and you should see a tiny clear hole. hth

Hey, I've just looked in my haynes manual and on page 30 it talks about cylinder head removal and how to remove the tensioner it says 8.3 Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt and pivot using the special splined socket (photo). Press the tensioner against the spring tension and tighten the bolt to retain it in it's released position If that makes any sense? the picture shows a splined tool in the bolt the spring coils are around. I can take a pic of the page if you want. I'm not 100% sure how you are meant to tension the belt but mine doesn't have the spring so i lever it tight and tighten the bolt. I then check the tension by twisting the belt on it's longest run 90degrees. If you can turn it more than 90 it's too loose, less than too tight. Not sure if that's the proper way but its how i've done it on mine numerous times over the past 10 years. hth

@dieselnut are you just using LED bulbs in the normal glass lens? The ones linked at the top are the entire unit so the beam pattern is whatever they designed. As you say if you fit led bulbs in the same place as filament bulbs then the beam should be the same through the original lens as that controls the beam pattern.

I would imagine it needs a gasket if the old one had it. You could probably make your own if you can get some gasket material. Used to be available in the good old days. As for my post above i think i might have been thinking of the entire MC and servo from the KA being remotely mounted. The pinto has the exhaust on the drivers side so the servo fits in the space. With a zetec with injection the inlet is too close to the pedal box so you have to mount the servo the otherside if you want a servo. Well this is from memory of reading bits and pieces so might be talking nonsense. sounds like you are nearly sorted though. hope it all works again soon.

my 2b with pinto does similar. If i haven't driven it for a while i have to crank it for ages to pull fuel through. Not sure why. although i do get a bit of overrun occasionally. Does your carb have a cut off solenoid? perhaps that isn't seating correctly might be worth a try as it could be allowing the fuel to syphon back to the tank and pulling the fuel out of the float chamber somehow. actually i should have a look at mine now I think of it

the KA solution i thought (might be wrong) was to be able to remotely mount it so it side on the other side of the car so it doesn't foul the inlet of the engine when fitting an engine other than the pinto eg a zetec. There are sure to be others that can be adapted. how many pipes does it need to serve though? mine is a 3 pipe setup

you might find someone with some but you are probably far better off just getting some made new to the correct length for your car as old ones could be perished inside and/or the wrong length and/or fittings. don't know any companies myself but hopefully someone will suggest one they've used successfully hth

hahaha no worries, any replies are appreciated

I'd love to know your experience of owning/driving a seven inspired car in the Netherlands. I get a fair few looks, and interested people asking questions or saying nice car in the UK whilst our and about in my 2b, I can only imagine it's a very rare sight in NL (apart from the other 2 nearby ) do you get a lot of questions/admirers? Can you build/register kitcars in NL? Belgium i don't think allows it as i was talking to a chap who came over to pick up his kit when i was picking mine up (2002) and he said he would have to come back to the UK - register it here and then import it to belgium.

that's what i was thinking but i just wanted to check as they all seemed to mention possible damage. @maca further down on that listing it says 'NOTES TO BUY : This electric heating thermostat is NOT suitable for gas boiler, furnace, water floor heating and Air Conditioner. In order to avoid your heaters from damaging or waste of your precious time to send the unit back, please contact clearly before buying.' but from what you've said above i think that just relates to boilers with low voltage parts to it, which mine isnt. The way mine is setup (s-plan) it's actually the motorised valves that the thermostat (or in this case wiring centre for the UFH) opens which in turn then turns on the pump and boiler, so the pump can never run with the valve shut (Which would obviously be bad). I'm happy now knowing that the thermostat that i've bought is pretty much a switch that is switching on a live 240v line (L1) to tell the ufh wiring centre to open the valve and turn the boiler on and doing what it should. It was certainly 'fun' wiring everything up when i rewired as there about 25 wires in the connector block coming from the boiler, 2 zone valves, main power, tank thermostat and room thermostat! Now i'm having to run wires everywhere for the room thermostats back to the ufh wiring centre. But on the bright side it is all working and i have nice warm feet in most of my rooms, just got the do the living room floor. Oh and no radiators with pants on... i just throw them on the floor now thanks all oh and hopefully when i'm done i can hopefully get to fit the bike carbs, new headlights, new wing mirrors, paint the nose cone and arches and a bunch of other things on the 2b!

ah ok this makes more sense then if some boilers have low voltage setups. My boiler is quite a simple one and was setup using s-plan (https://www.flameport.com/electric/central_heating/S_plan_wiring_diagram.gif) which i re-did when i re-wired the house. From the diagram i have (and the connections available) there is no low voltage parts of the system/boiler (no lcd screens etc) so it wouldn't even be a problem connecting direct to my boiler (not that i intend to do that). The wiring centre takes full 240v N, L to the thermostat and uses the 240v L1 switch to turn on each of the valve actuators. So this makes sense and reassures me that it's ok to do what i've done as all it is doing is turning a live on or off in the wiring centre. (wiring centre is on a fused spur 3A and on RCD protected circuit). So something would have gone as you said if it couldnt' take it, and it's definitely designed for 240v anyway. I know they are chinese jobs but quite impressed so far with it, fully programmable and pretty simple to use. Feel quite well made. Ths chap has opened one up and checked it out https://hackcorrelation.blogspot.com/2017/11/floureon-byc17gh3-thermostat-teardown.htmland doesn't seem too concerned. thanks both

Hi, sorry not car related but you chaps are always knowledgeable so i'm hoping you'll be able to answer this for me. I bought a touch screen thermostat like this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Programmable-16A-LCD-Electric-Heating-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-UK-PLUG/183420850951?hash=item2ab4bc1307:g:ORgAAOSw2iFbhPX6and i didn't read that it is actually for underfloor electric heating. They say not to connect to a boiler as it will cause damage and whilst i havent done that i have connected it to my wiring centre for my underfloor heating which then controls actuators and turns the boiler on when needed. It is all connected and working using the number 1 connection for the load as the switched live and the L + N as indicated leaving the N (number 2 connection) of the load unused. I can't see how or why this could damage anything but i also don't want to burn my house down. Can anyone see a logical reason why this shouldn't be used like this? It is only switching a live on to signal the wiring centre and it is a fraction of what the switch is designed to handle. any help appreciated.

Peter will confirm but i'm sure they are for toe-in and camber. The sierra wishbones as they get lower it gets more toe-in and more camber. So you need to correct both. I'm hoping it will stop the inner wear i had on my previous tyres. My wheels are certainly straighter and more upright than before. It should make handling better as well but i changed a few things at the same time so can't say it was that for sure but if nothing else it saves your tyres and no doubt fuel as they won't be scrubbing. hth

found it http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=44187&hl=%2Brear+%2Bsuspension&do=findComment&comment=358486we didn't go into too much detail. my thinking was to use the 'build your own sportscar' plans to build a subframe that would replace the ford sierra subframe, but with a few more pickup points. On the 2b the sierra subframe mounts using the original subframe outer arm mounts, outer wishbone bolts and the diff rear mounting bolt. I plan (one day) to build the diff cage and wishbones as per the book plans and then custom fabricate 2 lower arms to mount where the current subframe rubber mount goes, 2 arms backwards picking up more of the chassis tubes, and 2 arms upwards into the rollbar tube to also take the upper shock mounts. The main problem is the rollbar is not inline with the hub so i have yet to work out how to secure the upper suspension mount, unless i build a frame across but i don't want to take up too much space in the boot. is it worth it? don't know but it's more about the experience for me.

I use my ski gloves when it gets cold as they have good grip, sportdirect or decathlon etc normally do some cheap ones that will be more than enough. Or if it's not that cold i have my full fingered mountain bike gloves which are thinner and have plenty of feel. hth

2 things to check on the rear. Tyre pressure (which you already mentioned) should be 20psi or there abouts. I put 30psi in once and it was really bouncy and rather dangerous. The other thing is how low the builder set the suspension. The sierra setup gets more toe-in and more negative camber as it gets lower. If you set it too low you have too much toe-in and it skips all over the place. Building a double wishbone rear end is on my list of things to do but still haven't got around to it yet. There is a thread on here where we discussed ideas, I'll see if i can find it.

again you probably already know but if you go for a power assisted rack they tend to be quicker lock to lock than non-pas ones. Will be heavier to park but these cars are pretty light so not too much of an issue. Should give you more of a choice as i would think non-pas racks are getting rarer these days Others will know more but i'm sure i've read you just have to connect the in and out pipes together so the pas fluid can move around, as you obviously won't have the pump to connect to. hth

You may be aware of this so sorry if you already know but what you need is a rack that has the specific length that the arms pivot on the same pivot line as the wishbones. this image from hotrod.com shows the principle https://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/21/2009/10/ctrp_1001_02_z-bump_steer_explained-zero_bumpsteer.jpg If the rack is too long or too short, as the suspension moves up the wheel is pulled in or out causing the car 'bump steer'. If you look on the image above you'll see the 'inner mount plane' line. If you can work this out on your car, perhaps a line of string both sides, you shoud be able to measure the length you'll need at the height the rack sits. Then you'll just need to find one that is as close as you can get. hth

on the plus side for ally and steel it doesn't burn! If you had an engine fire with a grp bonnet and side panels it won't protect anything or keep the fire in. They are called firewalls for a reason. If you want to lose weight then if you have a pinto swap to a zetec or something modern and you'll lose at least 30kg. I reckon there are savings to be had replacing the rear subframe but that is a full on redesign so not that easy.

yeah my pinto leads can do the same. I feel for the click as it goes on. Somehow my trick seems to be to break the spark plug in no1 cylinder. I did it twice within a couple of weeks. doh!

fair enough if that's the going rate. Just seemed a bit high when the last head gasket i bought cost £6. If i can get to it my dad has a pit in the garage that makes it a lot easier when i did some work last time, but still heavy and stinking (i hate the smell of gearbox oil) thanks

Hi, looking to do all 3 seals on my sierra diff. I've had a quick search on ebay and the web in general and the 3 seal kits seem to be about £18. Anybody know a cheaper source? thanks