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Showing results for '"pinto tuning"'.
Found 18 results
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Injection head and FR32 cam. There's loads of Pinto tuning info on here, the search facility is a good start: https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/search/&q="pinto tuning"&search_and_or=or
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I have a copy of a Pinto tuning guide, in the guide there is a part about the inlet ports, it reads as follows :- The 36 to 38mm port diameter of all 2000 cylinder heads is optimally sized just as it comes from Ford and does not need to be opened out at all. In fact, it can be left in the as-cast state. The largest standard port size (38mm) is as large as the largest carburettor choke (38mm) that is normally used on a well modified 2000cc/2100cc engine. None of the Pinto cylinder heads, if fitted to their original block, really need to have their inlet ports opened out.
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Iv got a 1.8 pinto in my hood. Standard engine. Got bike carbs for winter upgrade but what can I do to a 1.8 to make it little better. Nothing massive and expensive. Don't want to swop for 2L as wedding plans and house deposit is draining my money. Is a 1.8 worth doing up or do I really need a 2L thrown in. Cheers Luke
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Hi, I've decided to change my 1.6 pinto with a 2.0 but want to up the power can anyone help with the best tuning tips and an idea of cost . I've already decided it will be running with weber 45's Cheers
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Just rebuilt a 2.0 Capri engine of unknown vintage. INGREDIENTS... Head bought from Ian Harwood from an RS2000 (perhaps originally Cortina though) with rimflow valves and light porting. Cam is a Piper 285; vernier pulley installed. Inlet manifold and Weber 32/36 DGAV is from the same Capri as the block. Electric fuel pump and pressure regulator fitted. Distributor is from a Y reg 1600 OHC Sierra (the original donor). The auto choke part of the carb has been removed as it fouls the cam cover, so choke is operated by hand at the moment! Vacuum advance is now fitted too. Timing has been set at 8 degrees BTDC at 1000rpm. THE PROBLEM... Needs full choke to start, and once warm it idles nicely without choke. No black smoke. No nasty noises. So far so good. The pick up is terrible. The engine hesitates when the throttle is opened. So much so that you can stall the engine by opening the throttle quickly. The car is almost undriveable because under load it is even worse. Seems to run quite hot too. I have stripped the carb down, as that was the obvious culprit. The float level is spot on, the jets are all clear (now!), the accellerator pump seems to be working OK, and all the fuel has been drained from the tank and replaced with fresh. I've tried everything I can think of, including altering the idle mixture (both ways) with little effect on the hesitation. ANY IDEAS?????? One more thing. With my set up, what jets should I be using?
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Hi, just wondering what everyone would do if they had a standard, but brand new 2.0 Pinto and around £200 ish to spend on the rebuild, if you could sell bits then that would free up cash. i.e the standard but never used cam. Thought of a fast road cam and a good air filter is about all i can afford but will it cut down my 0-60 time? Maybe twin 40's and cam but probably over £200, maybe sell standard new cam on ebay for a few quid, but i already have a 38 DGAS so is it worth spending the extra on 40's Anyway hopefully someone with a bit more experience and knowledge has some good ideas???? If you could give me expected BHP and 0-60 times for the set up it would be appricated, my recently poor times have made me obsesed with trying to get it below the current 8 secs Also just looking at the old pinto sitting in the car and it seems to be on the wonk, i presume it should be fairly straight but i am using standard mountings and is on the standard 2B mountings ?? Thanks, all help very welcome Simon
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I have a 1983 2 litre pinto engine out of a granada in a kit car. I realise it's a big heavy lump and there are lighter engines with more hp out there but I'd like to try tuning this one. I've only just got it and don't know the level of tune the engine is at but it does 0-60 in 5.5 seconds and will easily do 130mph and have been told it has done 140. One mod I am considering it to fit a cossy head from an old 3door model. Can it be done and what do I need to do? I assume the compression ratio will be all to cock which is probably due to the cossy rods being longer than the pinto ones. I can get hold of a cossy head and a 205 block so I'm also considering going down this line, any advice?
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There is a drawing in one of the Pinto tuning books (Des Hamil?) that shows what you can do to the flywheel, but frankly I don't like the idea of playing around with a cast flywheel too much - I like my legs too much. So on mine I just had the rectangular cross section annular lump on the engine side of the flywheel machined-off flush with its root. This reduced the weight by several kilos, and as this bit of the flywheel is just a 'weight', actually reduces the stress. I wondered if the flywheel would need balancing afterwards, but no problems. In fact when on the rolling road I was asked if I had the engine balanced as it was so smooth. The lighter flywheel made the engine much crisper and responsive. No need for the std. flywheel which was designed to help get moving a Sierra full of adults with a caravan on the back! Tim
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you can read it in every pinto tuning book or web-page: a standard 32/36 (correctly jetted) is well enough until 135-150BHP. fitting twin webers means: loosing torque (and i guess the 1600er does not have so much you could afford), also fuel consumption will rise and thats it. its the biggest mistake you can do on a pinto (even on a 2l)
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Took my 2B up to Peter Baldwin's Rolling Road nr Cambridge yesterday. After a bit of tweaking 148bhp at the flywheel!! So the cam, head and inlet work, dizzy mods etc. have given a useful increase over the 115 bhp standard. Trouble is putting the air filter on dropped it by 3 bhp, and putting the bonnet on another 5bhp. So I think it is a case of a new taller air filter and a hole in the bonnet to match. Can't wait for Barkston now. Engine spec is:- Std. 2.0l Pinto 205 block, injection head home ported as recomended by the Pinto Tuning books, 24/32 DMTL Webber, Low line ITG filter (to be junked!), heavily modified inlet manifold (as standard it is nasty), Piper 285 cam, heavily fettled RH 4:1 and silencer (stupidly noisy, got to be changed / improved). Std Cortina points dizzy modified advance curve, fully advanced at 3750 rpm. Max power was at 5500rpm with 32deg advance. Tim
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Taken off sierra forum.....Not bad methinks http://forum.fordsierraclub.co.uk/viewtopi...8e06dee1bcc1576 100 k 205 block pinto, complete incl all ancyleries and inj bits (inc ecu, loom etc) (can be heard running if your quick ) Type 9 4cyl box, brand new quickshift never even fitted incl gear stick Bogg bros custom manifold with bike carbs spare set bike carbs megajolt lite junior (igniton ecu) ready built TPS set up Edis 4 and uncut loom Bottom pulley wheel with 36-1 teeth weber carb manifold 4 branch ashley manifold rest of ashley exhaust 3" tail pipe £450 and i'll through in a book on pinto tuning too :DD
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Ford Capri 1.6L Black Vinyl Roof, red paintwork G484WJF, bought before I passed my test and polished to death way back in 1978; followed by side pipes and striped fur interior I'd have it back without all the mods made back then, mind you followed it with a mk3 cortina (1st pinto) that had at different times a confederate flag on the roof, starsky and hutch stripe on the side, scaffold pipe as front bumber (bit wild then, used to push each other) Before getting into rallying so a stream of mk2 escorts and more pinto tuning, 25 years later back playing with a pinto again................. I made a list of my previous cars a while back and am at 37 since that Capri, really sad was I could remember the reg for most of them.
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Was just looking at Des Hammill's pinto tuning book, and he recommends 38 degrees advance at 3500rpm and up (with vacuum disconnected). He doesn't seem to say whether this is with leaded or unleaded fuel though. Does anyone know? If leaded, I guess 4 degs retard for unleaded? I've only ever checked mine at idle and am just curious what it might be at higher revs. Brian
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I'm amazed you'd admit to knowing about shopping on here.....you'll be drummed out of the club. One thought on the Pinto tuning front. If youre spending £220 plus on bike carbs & custom built manifolds,then shelling out for rejetting kits and rolling road sessions, don't forget you can buy a brand new, ready jetted DGAS which will happily squirt enough petrol to support 150 bhp and fit a standard early manifold for around £200. I went this route after buying 2 DGAS second hand carbs which turned out to be just scrap, £70 down the drain. Dont forget the KISS principle, which I think is what Simon is after. Bob
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I posted a picture in another thread, this was similar to diagrams found in Pinto tuning books. That is similar to the pic Longboarder posted and if i had not of got a steel flywheel on my latest engine, it's what i would have done after taking the advise of the club. You must dowl it if it is going to be reved a bit more than Henry intended. it's the bolts that give out. Be safe and if you further modify the engine then don't foget the limitations of the old flywheel. I am even trying to source some old flack jackets to wrap the bell housing with like the drag racers do.
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ive read in a pinto tuning book that a 1.6 head will give a brief performance increase on a 2l , until predetonation melts a piston?? will check up and post the article details later,apparently its not a good idea !
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If the engine did keep running re ''loads a smoke'' then wht damage has it done to the crank / cylinder bores etc????? Get yourself another block and rebuild that.. For conversion to 2.1 then go for 2.8 v6 pistons with overbore. Something you may need to watch for is the fueling on the injection side , you dont want to burn valves out if your mixtures too weak or foul the system if its too rich. im sure i saw a site for the pinto to 2.1 ..search for pinto tuning. rgds
