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Showing results for 'pinto tuning'.
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Hello Robin Hood hive mind! I’m out and about again enjoying the car in the improved weather since sorting my fuel tank issues and so inevitably, my mind turns to other things to sort and improvements to make. I raised up my steering column last year to make a little more room for my knees. Unfortunately I have noticed since doing so that the shaft is in fact touching the alternator. This is obviously far from ideal. It’s only lightly touching and so it’s not at present interfering with my steering ability, but for longevity’s sake of both shaft and alternator, I don’t want it to be this way forever! My alternator belt doesn’t appear to be doing especially well either, and so I’m turning my attention to addressing all of these things. I’ve been looking at possibilities for installing a more compact alternator to replace the stock Sierra Mk1 alternator that I’m guessing is in there currently. I’ve found a compact alternator on Car Builder Solutions that appears based on measurements to be a smaller diameter than the stock alternator, but it is only 40amps which to me sounds a little low. What are the thoughts on this? My car isn’t massively complex electronically but it does have a few bits and pieces that might be overly costly to a 40amp alternator. I have a heater, windscreen wipers and a Sony Bluetooth headunit. The car otherwise has normal things you’d expect such as lights, dashboard cluster etc and all that’s required to run a standard 2.0l pinto. My wife and I are thinking of installing heated seats from intatrim in the not too distant future and so there is the potential draw of that to consider too. My knowledge of how many amps I generally need and what kind of a downsize is just too low is somewhat limited, so any thoughts would be much appreciated! Enjoy the weather - looking forward to Malvern!
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Hello all, I have recently purchased a Tiger Cat E1 with a 2.0 Pinto engine, 205 block (November 1987) and the head is using carburettors. As the title says, I am trying to find identification marks near spark-plug 4 that would indicate if the head is an unleaded one. There is what looks like a vertical scratch on the block similar to the letter “I” but it does not look like factory marking. The previous owner bought the car themselves as is and they were not aware if the engine has been modified in any way by the original owner. Any ideas?
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My Pinto 2.0 engine has a sensor right underneath exhaust port 4 and there is no wire going to it. Does anyone know which sensor it is so I can correctly re-wire it? Also, is there a drawing of all the sensors and their locations around the block?
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I agree, the Haynes manuals for the Sierra helps for Pinto, and also for all the other bits that come from a Sierra donor used in RHE and other kit cars. The most detailed one is the "Owners Workshop Manual" ISBN 1 85010 538 3 (1982 to June 1989) .... but hard to find. The other one is the "Service and Repair Manual" ISBN 1 85960 090 5 (1982 to 1993 K reg) easier to find. Here is a link to a copy for a fiver. https://www.gumtree.com/p/books/haynes-manual-ford-sierra-82-93/1479713537
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If you can get hold of an early version of the Haynes manual for the Sierra it will give you lots of information on the Pinto engine. The later versions of the manual have less info. and more "take it to the dealer". You can usually find them on eBay for a few quid.
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Hope Ive popped this in the right section. Ive got an S7 that previously had a 2.0 Pinto (was all up and running and road registered) - when I bought it there was no engine and box. It does have a prop and rear axle. Having given it a good looking over I think the loom is pretty butchered so although the mounts etc are there ready for a replacement pinto I am thinking shall I just bite the bullet and get a Mk2 MX5 1.8 that runs and do an engine/box/loom swap. My questions are - Am I mad and should I just patch up the loom and get another pinto (I have been offered one with a transit gearbox for £600) or Get an 1.8 MX 5 and rip it apart - will the engine fit, would I need to modify/swap the the steering column Or is there another option that I havent considered - I do have a fairly tight budget! Thanks in advance.
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After a gap since buying my RH 2B Plus and am working on it to starting using it. I have been looking into some overheating issues which I may have resolved (just done many things including removed the incorrect gasket covering a third of the hole!) - time will tell! However, I have noticed an issue with the electric fan, which is wired via a thermostatic switch in the coolant system (which is earthed) and a manual switch on the dash - both continue to operate after the ignition is off, the fan had stopped coming on automatically(not the source of the overheating!). I bought a new thermostatic switch, but when I took the original (90 degrees) out and tested both, the new one did not work and the original did, so I cleaned it up and put it back in. The fan now turns on correctly with both switches, but is not turning off when the temperature drops significantly. If I disconnect it at the thermostatic switch and reconnect it immediately, the fan does not restart (only tested this with ignition off), but does start and stop with the dash switch (as expected). I also noticed once, that when I switched the dash switch on and off (ignition off), the fan stopped, but has this hasn't happened again, so far, it may have been coincidence. I am now wondering about the wiring or the thermostatic switch. I thoughts, ideas suggestion? If others think that it is still worth changing the thermostatic switch anyone know a supplier of the small thread diameter, so that I don't need to change the housing? Also, mine is the single connector variety, as the new one I bought (double connector) doesn't work, can I check my logic for the double connector type (which seem easier to get) do both connectors have the same function when the the thermostatic switch is on (hot) - I'll describe that as both +, or is one + and the other -?
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Have a look at this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143548367716 It's small, light and 50 Amps rated. I've bought one of these to replace the standard Ford item on the Cobra. I fitted something similar on the 2B's pinto which worked well. Bear in mind that you'll have to modify the existing brackets to suit and may need to provide a +12V ignition feed to it if your original one doesn't have one.
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That mark that looks like an F is enigmatic, not quite a proper stamp, but unusual if its just by chance. The head on my Pinto is stamped with the letter P, but it took me a while to find it. Why? ...well its stamped next to Number 4 inlet port and can only be seen properly when the manifold flange is removed AND it upside down with the engine in place. My assumption is that it was stamped when the head was not on the block during manufacture.
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Look up the MOT history on the gov.uk website. This will give you milage going back several years. I have forgotten when leaded was phased out but 20 years ago is the right ball park. If the engine is still running after all this time then valve seat regression is not a problem. My 2l pinto has an early head that ford says needs leaded petrol, I decided to see what happened and just ran it on unleaded 70,000 miles later it still runs.
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I suggest that you scrape the paint off the machined flat surfaces next to the no 4 spark plug, it will then be clear if there are any markings there. If you find an * stamped then look on the other side of the head near the inlet port for no 4, (look there anyway). I have picked up the following information from the various threads on this frequent topic. It might be of use. N.B any marks will be punched not "scratched" or cast in the mold. Unleaded I/D for Pinto next to number 4 spark 1.6-- M,MM,N or NN 1.8-- S or SS 2.0-- P,PP,R or RR Have a look at the shape of the inlet ports. If they are round its no help but if they are cam lobe shape then its an injection head and is unleaded. 'I' OR 'L' stamped next to number 4 spark plug hole= a leaded head most likely to be 1979 - 1982 in age
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Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, ever since buying the car and moving house, I've lost all the paperwork and receipts. Based on information from other Robin Hood owners and the little information I got from the previous owner a couple of years ago, I think it's a 2-litre Pinto engine, and the donor car was a Sierra. Also, I believe it has R1 carbs. So the tapping is during idle and yes it probably gets a little louder on acceleration.
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Anything apart from an A series Mini engine is nicer to drive that a Pinto & type 9
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Robinhood Cortina Based S7 Engine Swap Pinto-MX5
philshelton replied to Ant_Harvey's topic in Engine
Just do it, you won't regret it the mazda engine and box drive so nice compared to pinto and type 9.
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I have changed a pinto cam belt, but not for a while. I know I have the splined bit that fits the tensioner spring bolt somewhere, BUT where did I put it! ... So many spiders are now homeless in my attempts to locate that strip of 4 or 5 splined sockets/bits....... so I need to buy some more ..... but now I look on-line and am amazed by the number of different splined sockets/bits available, I don't mean different makers, I mean different standards. The one the block that I have looks like it has 12 points, then I see 3 different standards of 12 point splines (at least) depending on the angle between the teeth. I did find a set of bits handed down from my father, but when I tried the one that looked the right diameter it started to go in but was obviouly the wrong tooth angle because it started to make grooves on the sides of the bolt teeth. I searched our extensive database and found the link below, however apart from telling me that a hex key might be ok, there is no definitive information abount exactly the type of splined bit needed. Does anyone here know the details ? https://www.rhocar.org/index.php?/forums/topic/25924-cam-tensioner/
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Brought a electric water temp gauge, just curious where would be best place to fit? Can anyone confirm where the factory on is? is it top left side when looking at intake side? Thanks from New Zealand in advance
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Is it running a fuel injected Pinto engine?
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Hi Guys Just got my Robin Hood S7 1997 back on the road for the summer. I was amazed to find that the road tax is now £325, it's petrol with a Sierra 1993cc Pinto engine, nothing else special. Is this correct or am I missing something?
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Road tax is a joke, my Chevy is on LPG with Zero emissions on gas yes full whack to tax, even worse is my Smart Brabus Roadster, 0.7l turbo engine, I’m sure a fart has more emissions yet the dvla want £160 for the year….. it probably only do 200 miles at best… Road Tax = Daylight robbery…. I bet when my RH7 is back on the road that will be the same over £300 with the 2.0l Pinto. Anyone feel like a run to No.10 anyways rant over…. Let’s enjoy the driving season all
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Hi all My S3a lights to get hot quickly and over heats. It has an electric fan that is operated by a switch on the dash. I'm thinking about replacing the rad as the car had been sat for a number of years before I got it sorted. The core has cool spots when the car is up to temp. So one question is what one should I get to there isn't a lot of space.. It has no header, expansion tank or overflow bottle. I'm looking at putting an overflow bottle in but reading a few threads on here I'm wondering if some of my issues could be air locks as the rad cap is lower than some or the water system.. it has a heater which I'm looking at taking out at some point and the Weber carb that uses the water to operate the choke. Do I need to look at putting in a header tank up high? Any suggestions on this setup?
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Hi guys could anyone help me as to why pinto has started making a knock? Heres a link of a video of it https://youtube.com/shorts/B2enN7ALkMM?si=xhuwFg6BRikZwYiA
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Greeting from New Zealand! First time poster, long time listener. i have a MK2 escort which i think about time has a Oil Pressure gauge for the mighty Pinto, Which would be easiest to install? Mech or Electric? Thanks in advice time
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Hi all I’m trying to get a list of things I need before the car comes home to me. But need help with what websites to use and what I need to get. I’m after possibly a new rad. New coolant hoses oil and fuel filter and battery. If any can point me in the right direction I’ve been on eBay but not having much luck. Thank you
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Winter mods finished just waiting to get it set up on the rolling Road on the 5th Jan. Photo album of the conversion are here. https://www.amazon.co.uk/photos/share/M4DnC4AjGEeV3HeLzKVylCwJwRV6Mx5Wrm0HZ91KP97
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Is swapping a 1.6 pinto for a 2lt just a straight swap? Or do other items such as clutch, flywheel, bell housing, starter, alternator inlet or exhaust manifold need changing or modifying in any way.
