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Exhaust Blowing


alanrichey
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After taking off my heat shield it looks like mine is blowing at the join.

 

When I was a 'young lad' the solution was an empty can of baked beans and loads of 'Gun Gum'

 

Has there been any change in the intervening years ? I have some 'Black Bob' following a recent recommendation, would that be suitable ?

 

Al

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when you say join do you mean the proper joint/connector or a join/split in the can? If its the proper connector just get some exhaust assembly paste. Split the exhaust sand the old stuff back (assuming it had any) don't breath the dust. reapply - bolt together - run to temp.

 

job done

 

If its a split in the can that needs welding get it welded.

 

either way you are trying to cover a hole that will want to blow out whatever you try and cover it with.

 

hth

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Sorry, should have attached a picture. From the 'soot' on the bodywork it looks like it is blowing either from the join or there is a split in the connecting tube, although it may also be from the lamda sensor mounting. Haven't had a chance to isolate it yet as the first time I put my hand near it to feel I sliced my finger open on a sharp edge :( So still recovering from that.

 

exhaust.jpg

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If it was me, i'd take the collar off and clean it all up then use exhaust assembly paste. Then clamp back together. Assuming it is the joint not the sensor.

 

might be worth replacing the clamps as they look quite rusted and you might find the nuts shear off anyway.

 

 

hth

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Somebody from one of the kit car parts supply companies told me that although exhaust paste is ok he uses silicone sealant. When I said no way he said yes, ordinary bathroom sealant. He said the best stuff to use is RTV if its available. Haven't dared try it though. Thinking about it though my wife has some silicone cake and bun trays.

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Yes, checked it now and it is definately blowing from the connecting tube, not the lamda sensor. Difficult to tell if it at a join or a hole has developed as the position is hidden. I agree the best solution is to take off the clamps and tube and rebuild it. Not surpisingly the bolts are rusted solid, first 2 applications of WD40 have been applied :)

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Somebody from one of the kit car parts supply companies told me that although exhaust paste is ok he uses silicone sealant. When I said no way he said yes, ordinary bathroom sealant. He said the best stuff to use is RTV if its available. Haven't dared try it though. Thinking about it though my wife has some silicone cake and bun trays.

 

Use caution if using silicone near the lambda sensor it can poison them.

 

http://www.ceradexproduct.com/techniquedetails.asp?id=12&edition=2

.Symptom of Poisoned or Damaged Sensors

-Lead Poisoning

Lead composite in the fuel may damage casing body as well as ceramic element inside.

Immediate action to replace sensor and use only lead free fuels.

-Excessive Carbon / Soot Deposits

Soot produced by incomplete combustion of oil may cause blockage of frontal protection tube which lead to unstable and incorrect response time.

Immediate action to replace sensor.

-Silicone Poisoning

Silicone contaminates the ceramic element in oxygen sensor which result in sensor functional failure.

Immediate action to replace sensor and to use oxygen safe product.

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Interesting, think I will stick with Gun Gum :)

 

As predicted all the bolts on the brackets sheared. And this is what was exposed when I removed the cover tube: There is no trace of any sealant although I know the previous owner used a lot, so I guess it has just all dried out and disappeared ?

 

 

exhaust2.jpg

 

And it seems quite secure. So I am not certain why the previous owner put the extra tube and clamps on except maybe for added strength and prevent any flexing ? My in initial thought is to now cover the joins with GunGum and bandage to seal it properly. I don't really care what it looks like as it is all hidden by the heat shield, but should I also add another tube and clamps over the top to be absolutely sure ?

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