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Markbzero Building My Kit Car


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Next the rear panel. Most people are worried about this because you have to manually bend the panel to form perfect curves, it is much easier than expected. First job was to mark and drill the top piece, very easy with new cobalt drill bits.


Then I had to bend the tabs on the lower edge and curved section (where your elbow sits when driving).

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I then place the top piece against the main panel and positioned it centrally, drilled a few holes and used clekos top hold them together. I chose to place inside because I knew I would get the holes evenly any gap would be filled with tadpole edging.

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Now into the kitchen on a rug to make the bends, gently role the panel, just pass where it needs to be fixed. It was easy but ideally a second pair of hands will help to clamp the panel before drilling and fixing with pop-rivets on the bottom piece and then top piece. Don't forget to use the tadpole edging. I always found it easier to glue the tadpole edging a little to ensure it does not move.

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Then I tried to fit the rear panel to the chassis.


As a temporary measure I used some self tappers in the upper shock mount/roll bar chassis mount before aligning the rear mounts which I used some M6 bolts until I ordered some rounded hex key bolts.


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You can see in the picture below how I fitted the bottom rear panel then realised it would not sit against the chassis. So I had drill out the old rivets and replace, very messy but under the car and when I fit the diffuser it should be OK.

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Next I had to fit the the 1/4 circle panel to complete the rear end and join the side body panels. I can only assume these are separate because GBS cutters cannot handle the length of sheet steel that you would need.

Firstly I had to bend the tabs and then cut off a few so they did not cause any overlap with the rear panel, which would have been impossible to hide.


Then fit with a few discrete pop rivets which will be hidden by the wheel arch later.


Then I continued with the tadpole beading all the way down the edge, and riveted the rear top strip.


Not the best job, too many fiddly bits and really not much to rivet to, GBS have now put another chassis frame here on later models which should make it easier.

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Moving on to the scuttle and fire wall. Firstly I completed a test fit using good old cleko's (great tool), I had to remove the a the ends to sit flush with the chassis (second picture).

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Then I had to manually bend the scuttle, this took a few attempts to match the curve of the fire wall. Please remind me why I went for stainless steel again!

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I secure the whole unit unit with three bolts and panel adhesive beads to cover any imperfections/gaps.


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At this stage I wanted to fit the gearbox to identify the prop length. Only one mounting bolt fitted from the mount I fitted into the chassis earlier and I supported the bell housing on blocks of wood.


I then marked the bell housing (starter area) to allow the gearbox to fit properly within the tunnel, cut and then made a simple plate which I bonded to keep the rubbish out.

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Then I test fitted the engine, to make the engine mounts. GBS never had engine mounts for a crossflow in a zero, so I bought an old set on eBay from a 7 style car.


I then fitted the angled chassis end with three high tensile bolts to the chassis plates, and cut the old engine mounts so I had a plate fitted to the rubber mount and to the side of the engine.

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Then with some careful measuring and laser level I centralised the engine front to rear and side to side. Then cut some square tube to the correct length and a colleague welding them for me.

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A coat of black engine paint and new Landrover bushes were fitted.

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Quick and easy job next, or that what I thought. I did not have the right size cutter for the fuel filler so I had to drill lost of holes in the stainless steel rear panel which took ages and blunted most of my cobalt drill bits. Then with a dremel type tool I started to smooth the rough edges, well I killed the cheap dremel imitation within a few minutes.


Then I bought an air powered die grinder, much better! Well, except for the one time it slip out of the hole and went down my nice shiny panel, after a bit of cursing I fitted the filler with new nylocs and cork gasket.

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I then fitted the fuel filler hose, with the writing pointing directly to the VOSA examiner.


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From one end of the car to the other, to fit the radiator. To fit the rad into the Zero brackets I had to trim a little of the mounting bracket. Then test fit to make sure the bottom hose clears the steering rack, marked the holes then removed the rad to drill the holes.

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I mounted the rad using bolts, flat washers and nylocs. At the same time I fitted some p clips for the overfill/pressure pipe.


The fan was fitted with through rad fittings from CBS, almost an inline cable tie not sure if these are any good I suppose time will tell.

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I opted for the radiator with traditional rad cap. In the future or if the rad needs replacing I will opt for the plain radiator and fit a rad cap to the top hose where you access it without removing the nose cone, what a pain, winter project!

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Guest mower man

The through mounts are good ,have run them for a while and have fitted my new alloy radiator with them [2 fans ] they ned to be snug but not over tight mower man

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I decided to fit the horns in a void that nothing else was going to fit, on the front chassis strengthening bracket area. Simple drill a hole, fit rivnut and bolt together. Wiring will come later when I fit the modified sierra loom.

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I was slightly concerned that rain water could enter the horns so I twisted the bracket to point downwards, to drain naturally. Although when I fitted the nose cone the top of the radiator was protected.


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Electrics, let the fun begin. As previously mentioned I decided to use the Sierra loom to save cost. I also purchase some split corrugated plastic sleeve to cover the electric wires when fitted.


I thought the first job to do was to fit the new fuse holders to the scuttle, at least I now have a starting point.


Then all the ignition switches and column switches, easy when retaining the original loom.


I then split the loom to front of the car, under the scuttle through a grommet and to the rear same exit point and down the tunnel. All the dash wiring was separated from the plug and marked on a piece of card for later.

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Don't want to bored you so I will not show every electrical connection but below you will get the idea and method followed. I fitted a few earth points on various points on the chassis, including a separate point for the fuel level sender.


I used solder, tested the circuit and then used some heat shrink on all light connections.

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And finally, used the corrugated conduit, joined with either self amalgamating tape or heat shrink, all secure with cable ties or p clips.

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