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Markbzero Building My Kit Car


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I fitted the driver seat on runners and the passenger seat using some spacers. First I secured the runners to the drivers seat with high tensile 8.8 bolts, then used the same for the runners to the body.

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The passenger seat I used the same bolts and cut off the heads, as extra security I also welded the bolt to the seat. Fitted spacers the same thickness as the runners, marked the floor plan and drilled through.

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I used some large flat washers during the build but upgraded to some 6mm steel plate before IVA.


Edited by MarkBzero
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With the seats and steering fitted I thought it would be good to push the car onto the driveway. So next job was the wheels, I got these from Wheelbase on the internet the operator was very helpful and professional.


Like most people on the forum there is a lot of debate black or silver, so to be different I went for black and silver. They were the third most expensive purchase on the build after the Zero base kit and IVA fees.


Fitted a yellow spacer to fit the sierra hub perfectly.


Then protected the wheels from potential damage with a few cable ties and cardboard.



Finished car, I like the contrast with the stainless steel body.


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Battery was straight forward, a piece of aluminium with all four edges bent and in the side I drilled a two hole for the clamps. I had to add more thread to the clamping bolt because the battery was short.

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When I fitted the battery tray, I included some rubber trim and mat.


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Rear wheel arches, a simple job but for some reason nobody can get the wheels dead-centre not enough rear panel I think. First of all I put some blocks of wood and foam on the wheel to support the weight of the arch and to measure all angles to ensure they would both be the same. I then traced the inside of the wheel arch onto the car body, form this I marked where I need to drill for straight through bolts that I could access in the boot area and where to use rivnuts. I marked the arch in the same place and drilled the arches.

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I then glued the tadpole trim to the wheel arch and cut some notches out so it could follow the curve without bunching up.

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Will I ever learn, it was on the kitchen floor (no room in garage) and yes there was a little residual glue that left a 4-5" black arc on the floor and some how the wife translated that into you got a kit car I need a new kitchen..... go figure!

I bonded some flat washers to protect the fiberglass, and then bolted the arch to the body.

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You can get them dead Centre Mark, mine where mate. ;)

You have to fit the rear panel with this in mind as like you say, this affects their rearward movement.

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Thanks Nick, too late for me may be your comments will help others, how useful would a build manual be? The other pain was the stainless steel body work, the rear section was in three parts and with my skill level I could not extend.

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Rear indicators, stop and tail lights were already wired so I only had to fit the light units. Firstly I made a template that was aligned against the body and bottom of the rear wheel arch, for two reasons to make sure the lights are correctly mounted considering IVA requirements (height, position form outer edge etc.) and to ensure both sides are fitted in the same place. I then used a hole cutter for the bulb carrier to fit, heart breaking cutting new wheel arches.

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I then used some angled light housings to mount the units, to ensure the finish was acceptable I trimmed in small rubber u trim.


Then with spacers fitted to the mounting screws I fitted the housing and lights to the car.


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That's the rear of the arches complete with lights, so I thought now would be a good time to fit the stone guards. Very easy drill equally spaced holes, glue rubber trim on and rivet.

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Don't forget to deburr the hole and remove the protective plastic before riveting. Also you can push the stone guard into the tadpole trim on the wheel arch.

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