After ordering three seal kits I finally managed to match the right one for the brake master cylinder. I also cleaned the surface rust and gave it a few coats of black paint to protect it from the elements.

I used some new high tensile bolts (don't under estimate the cost of new nuts, washers and bolts, can be very expensive). Fitted a shorten bolt and forked end, I left this too long until the brakes were fitted and bled to give some room for adjustment.

I had to make a dummy spacer (plastic pipe and PVC tape) until I ordered new tube to ensure the brake pedal was fitted in the right place, inline with the brake master cylinder.

 

Next job fit the rear and front brakes.

Both drive shafts were cleaned and packed with new grease and new boots, using universal gaiter kit available on ebay for £24 for two. A really tight fit and I would advise you to wear gloves because when the rubber boot is passed over the cone a few times and starts to spread the lube it can fight you all the way. I didn't take any photos of this stage because I did not want the camera to slip out of my hands.

I did not experience any issues with drive-shafts length, I suspect pure luck.

Now the focus was on the rear brakes. Although I cleaned the old back plates and used spray paint primer and top coat there was still some rust coming through. Not to worry I will probably upgrade to disc's in the future when I change the engine.

 

I use the correct spacers as described somewhere else on the forum, then simply bolted the hub mount and back plates using new bolts.

I applied a little copper grease to areas where the new shoes could touch and other metal parts. I did not like the condition of the old wheel cylinders so I fitted new wheel cylinder, shoes and spring kit.

I could not locate a new auto-adjuster so I had to clean the old one.

I ordered the GBS handbrake cable so this was a straight forward fit. I did not like the way it was routed near the drive shafts so I fitted some temporary brackets to hold the handbrake cable.

To fit the anti-rattle pin to the shoes, I had to drill a hole through the hub mount, not ideal but worked.

Then the newly painted drums completed the task.

Front suspension was easy enough, four bolts through suspension arms (these are right and left hand) then fit the shocks and springs which was part of the original kit.

Before fitting the top wishbone ball joint I would advised you run a tap through as the thread can be slightly distorted.

Edited March 23, 201412 yr by MarkBzero

Next job was the front hubs and brakes. The was cleaned and painted, I did not change the bearings because they were ok on the Sierra.

I aligned the mud guard bracket and hub flat on the desk was the easiest method. By measuring both sides of the bracket it was more or less even, then tighten the bolt.

If the shock is very loose the hub is easily fitted using top and bottom ball joints.

I then fitted the new disc's and re-conditioned brake caliper, using the correct bolts, stud lock and torque wrench.

You may notice I have wrapped the disc's in clingfilm, to preserve the disc's whilst still building (don't want any rust) and covered the end of the mud guard bracket after whacking my head about tens times.

The pinch bolt you have through the Dummy strut / Hub carrier needs to protrude through and also have a Nylok nut on for IVA.

The Sierra didn't, i know, but the IVA calls for it.

 

Cracking build by the way, nice example of patience and attention to detail.

Thanks Nick, appreciate your kind words from a engineering expert.

 

It was not picked up at IVA but I did drilled a hole through the hub and dummy strut and fitted a high tensile bolt and nyloc I suspect this would still secure the dummy strut and meet Mr IVA requirements. That said, now you have mentioned it, I will order two new bolts better be safe than sorry.

Before I fit too many panels I decided to fit the fuel pipe and fuel lines. I am not a fan of the GBS nylon pipes and I did not like the fuel pipes going down the propshaft tunnel so I decided on copper pipe and fuel hose to join the tank, pump and carbs.

 

I used a short length of hose from the tank to the Facet fuel pump inline filter, and in preparation for a fuel return or leaking pipe I fitted a second line (currently blanked off) and the top hose is the tank breather fitted under the rear suspension top mount.

I used rivnuts (What a great tool) to mount the fuel pump and a piece of rubber mat to keep the noise down.

Now the contentious part fitting the fuel pipe underneath the vehicle between the lowered floor. Secure by stainless steel, rubber lined P clips.

I made a little shied to protect the front part of the fuel pipe.

Mark

Loving the build diary, very in depth and informative. :clapping:

 

It has been said on here many times about the facet filter on the pump, either bin it or drill a hole through it and fit an in line one, lots on here have had fuelling problems hard to trace but eventually found to be that filter.

Mark

if you have mounted with a rubber mat under pump using a riv nut ( ally i expect ) how good is that earth connection going to be. Looks mounted under car so will get dirt etc

in a few years time.

 

Stephen

Thanks Ian,

I have another in-line filter near the carbs, as soon as I have a fueling problem I will remove the facet filter.

Hi Stephen,

I did use ally rivnuts but also used an earthing strap/wire direct to the rear earthing pointing, same one as the rear lights.

 

One of those jobs, I will fix later. If I knew I was going to use so many rivnuts I would have purchased a decent heavy duty unit instead of the cheap tool similar as a normal pop rivet gun.

The gearbox mount was easy enough.

I had to trim the old Sierra mount to fit the chassis.

Then secure with four bolts, its not going no where.

You can use a bolt to fit riv nuts and some washers.

 

page 26 boys in hoods spring 2009

http://www.rhocar.org/mag/up%20loaded/Boys%20in%20hoods%20spring%202009%20LR.html

 

or a home made tool

 

Stephen

Good idea, and no need to buy spare ends for the rivnut tool, thanks Stephen.