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jaimo

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I have no holes in the bonnet and do not have it proped up

Viscous fan was too far from rad to have major efect.

Fitted electric fan tight to the rad and it pulls enought air to keep temp OK at all times.

deleted the Viscous fan as not working and did not want to make shroud that might not have worked.

Standard 2.0 pinto with standard DGAS carb, there is reasonable area for hot air to exit down the sides of the engine and back through the transmision tunnel and past the diff.

 

Have you ever looked at a modern cars rad instalation end wondered where the air went, it does not take a lot or area if the fan is tight to the rad.

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I had heat issues, this is what I did

82 degree thermostat with small 4mm hole drilled in surrounding plate to let air bleed

Bonnet propped by 5 to 10mm to let air out

Exhaust double wrapped

Push fan with inline thermostatic control in top hose

Oil cooler with thermostatic takeoff plate

Header tank

I have fitted a twin core radiator as the single core is marginal at best, twin core was a 27 row from GBS but for my lairy Pinto I went to 42 core from Boston radiators

Propping the bonnet made a huge difference as air flow down transmission tunnel is restricted by the gearbox and diff which also get hotter than you would expect exacerbating the air mass heat problem

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I have vents in the bonnet its amazing how much hot air comes out of them.

you have to have somewhere for the air to go. vents in the sides near the rear of the engine bay and/or in the bonnet will help

make sure they are rear facing .you don't wanna push air in. just let the airflow drag it out.

cheap alloy radiator makes a difference too , then shroud it if needed. mine doesn't need shrouding.

get a 82 or lower stat in too.

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Guest 2b cruising

The quicker the engine gets to working temp, the better the fuel consumption.

Also the oil workin at correct temperature leads to less wear of moving parts.

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The quicker the engine gets to working temp, the better the fuel consumption.

Also the oil workin at correct temperature leads to less wear of moving parts.

 

& aren't most engines designed to work at/around 100*C ? Isn't that the reason for the system being pressurised -- to raise the boiling point?

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Guest mower man

I ran the cosworth spec thermostat 82 degs perfect ,if you run a tweaked pinto to hot you ask for trouble stat open at 82 fan on at 90 worked for me :crazy: mick

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Ditch the viscous fan, when it's not needed it is just a waste of horsepower. When the engine does need the fan on an electric one will move far more air through the radiator, a puller is best but a pusher will still be better than the viscous one and it will only operate when needed.

A thermostat is a necessity as it allows the engine to warm up quicker before allowing the water access to the cooling effect of the radiator, in essence it is a temperature controller. If The fan were to stay on and over cool the water the stat would close up again to allow the engine to warm up again. This was happening with mine on a cold day until I turned it up.

Block up all the spaces around the radiator so that any air entering the front of the car has to go through it and as others have already said the air has to get out somewhere. I have louvres on the top of my bonnet but the area there through which air can exit nowhere near matches the area of entry through the nosecone. I have seen some nice vents on another car and may well put one or even two pairs of them on the sides of my bonnet rather than propping up the rear of the bonnet. I went out on the hottest day last week and had no problems but you can never have too much cooling in reserve!

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