Brake fluid sensor has 3 connections.

1 is GND the other 2 are connected together in the switch.

Correct wireing is switched fused power to light.

Light to one of the fluid level common connections and the other common conection to the handbrake switch which connects to GND.

So you test the brake fluid low warning light every time you use the handbrake.

Indicators. Ignition live power in at pin 54 and out again at pin 49. (Internal link in the column switch). That then goes to 49 on the ind relay and pulsed out again from 49a to 49a on the column switch to be diverted either to L or R to feed the indicator lamps. The hazard switch on the column switches amongst its many jobs makes or breaks the internal join between 54 and 49 and H30 and 49 so that 49 can source its power from ignition live for indicators (Hazards off) or constant live for hazards (hazards on).

 

Nigel

Indicators. Ignition live power in at pin 54 and out again at pin 49. (Internal link in the column switch). That then goes to 49 on the ind relay and pulsed out again from 49a to 49a on the column switch to be diverted either to L or R to feed the indicator lamps. The hazard switch on the column switches amongst its many jobs makes or breaks the internal join between 54 and 49 and H30 and 49 so that 49 can source its power from ignition live for indicators (Hazards off) or constant live for hazards (hazards on).

 

Nigel

 

Ah Nigel you may have it... I've connected to pin 56 not 54... obvious next question is do I need the ingnition live feed to both or just pin 54?

 

Thanks!

Brake fluid sensor has 3 connections.

1 is GND the other 2 are connected together in the switch.

Correct wireing is switched fused power to light.

Light to one of the fluid level common connections and the other common conection to the handbrake switch which connects to GND.

So you test the brake fluid low warning light every time you use the handbrake.

 

Thanks Ian, I think that's what I have so will give it a go when next out at the car.

Pin 56 on left col switch connects to pin S54 on the right col switch.

Pin 54 on left col switch has ignition live input.

 

Check again what you have done. If you had connected a constant live to pin 56 on the left column switch then you would have the headlights, main or dip, on all the time.(or an ignition live to pin 56 - main or dip on when ignition on).

 

Nigel

And we are working! Indicators are going twice the rate but I'm guessing that's down to me using LED's and ignoring/hoping it would work... problem for another day there.

Also brake fluid warning tell now sorted by topping up the brake fluid - oops! However pressing the handbrake switch doesn't appear to change the tells state :/

 

Cheers guys!

Digital flasher relay will sort fast indicators.

Ignition live supply through the lamp to the float switch. From there the lectric has two possible routes to earth both of which are switched and both of which are normaly open when driving. Through the float switch to earth if the fluid drops or through the handbrake switch if the handbrake is pulled on. The diagram shows how but you have to get the connections to the float switch the right way round.

 

Nigel

Cheers Dan will get one of those sorted!

 

So hopefully now on to the last stage in the saga... pretty happy so far - everything seems to now be working as it should bar the indicators being a tad fast, but that's on the list to be sorted.

 

Battery feed and Ignition feed are working, starting feed thou... I labelled up what I removed with the old loom so I have compared that to the Haynes manual and come up with two different circuits.

Heres what I took off:

 

 

Black ring off to the left went to the starter then next to the fuel pump and ignition module the black connector... which has:

- Black red wire to the starter

- Black blue to the ignition switch for starting

- Brown white not connected

- Brown green not connected

- Green yellow not connected

- Thin black wire in bottom right goes to a black yellow which was the ignition feed on the switch

 

My question is if I 'simply' plug the:

- Black blue to the ignition switch

- Black red to the starter

- Connector in

 

Will it work?

Or am I going to need to crimp the black wire into the ignition feed wire...

Two possible arrangements with a variation.

Simplest is as you say a black/blue from position 3 on the ignition switch effectively goes straight to its terminal on the starter solenoid. In the sierra loom this Bk/B becomes a Bk/R on it's journey. A variation and added complication on this is to use this Bk/B to switch a relay which switches a constant live through to the solenoid. You can put the relay closer to the solenoid, cuts down the current load in the ignition switch, shorter big wires. Most don't bother!

Some sierras used a ballast resistor with a lower voltage coil and had a fourth terminal on the solenoid which went direct to the coil positive by-passing the ballast resistor providing higher voltage during cranking. (Ford later dropped this system as it had no benefit) If you are using a ballast resistor and low volt coil you will need to put this in or buy a 12v coil and chuck the ballast.

 

Nigel