blue

I’ve done it a few times. a few of us get together and make a day of it. I took my zero , friends had a McLaren /Shelby mustang Gt800 , BMW i8 /Lamborghini and a few others I can’t remember we had a great day and are booked again for this year as the tickets were carried over from last year.

One IMPORTANT thing to remember with the zero suspension arms is the tubes inside the bushes MUST not be able to turn - the bush must spin on the tube NOT the tube in the brackets. So weather you fit the washers or not the bolts MUST be tight to grab and hold the tube

Brands hatch performance are uk dealer /supplier in the uk for spartan2/3

Top man. We like cheap easy fixes

Hi Mark are you running standard Sierra master cylinder?? If so have you got the brake lines in the correct way from M/c. I have 2 zeros both using your setup and the brakes are phenomenal. both EASY pass the mot with the handbrake locking out the wheels on only 2 clicks of the handbrake

Hi contact webcon direct. You can get someone to give you all the base settings /information from the manufacturer 01932 787100 they will know what parts fit what carbs and you won’t end up buying bits you cant use.

That’s a nice setup. And if your good with the spanner’s a real tidy install the reason I said under bonnet was that’s where every zero puts it to keep boot space.

Webcon does a combination pump and swirl pot. put it in the engine bay against the panel where passengers feet will be.

Glad to hear you got it running.

I had nothing but problems with there spark plugs. -miss fires -uneven idle etc. Found some new old stock Ford ones the difference was night and day. I think you need to balance the two carbs first. - do you know if your old school mechanic used an air flow meter when he was having a play ? Even if your idle jets are to small it should still idle even if badly I think you need a base set up so loosen up the balance lever between the carbs. Tighten the screw so the lever JUST starts to open then undo it at the point just before it moves. this is not by any means accurate but you need a starting point mixture screws should be about 2.5 turns out from full in - mixture screws just touch the base point NEVER tighten them in the carb for now close (screw in ) the air bypass screws -if your carbs has them again just so they close -not tight. as for air leaks spray some brake cleaner etc around the manifold joins -not into the carb mouth while car is running if you hear a difference in engine running you have a leak let me know how you get on.

Ok deep breath. forget the mains for a while. the revs are going up because your increasing the air speed it’s hard without seeing the car. so does the car stall below 2500 or does it not start ? Unless throttle is applied are the carbs loosely bolted to manifold to stop fuel frothing can you be a little more specific on what the engine does if below 2500rpm.

Go on GBS kitspares website. At the bottom is a download link. That has a diagram

Hey chaps -maybe the typed word comes out different to the spoken word. I’m not jumping down his throat-not in the slightest i did end the post with a laugh emoji- but you know someone will take that written word from and let’s be honest we are one of the MAJOR owners clubs and say oh the hood owners don’t care if you have a moody kitcar -in the same way my words were taken as jumping down his throat

So let me get this right ...... you would be happy to purchase say a CATERHAM 620R. Or a Dax Cobra ( both are just kit cars ) with a Dutton log book and in your eyes that’s fine as long as nothing falls off ?? Im sorry but as someone on the committee of a kit car club saying RINGERS are fine …I’m blown away. and then to ask can we get recognised by the DVLA …to what report the ringers your happy to buy ??? We as a club give LOTS of advice and help to help other people get through the IVA … your advice. … buy a £300 Dutton and knock ya socks off

Going back to the last pic of the Red/black car. the `Dutton owners club are VERY strict on ringers and if this comes under there radar they WILL have it crushed and push to prosecute the owner also god forbid you have an accident and it’s found your in a ringer ( contrary to beliefs insurance assessors do know about kit cars ) you face prison time

Ok. Turn the idle screw in enough so it runs. Even if running at 1000-1500rpm. Get it up to temp. Then turn the idle down -you won’t do it cold. do you know how to balance the carbs ? If not you are peeing in the wind trying to get them to idle etc. there is the main balance between the carbs THEN you adjust the air bleed screws to get it 100% perfect between all four chokes but if you don’t know what your doing you can keep playing forever do you know how there jetted ? sometimes it’s worth just taking the car to a rolling road and spend the money getting them set up -books and articles are excellent but if you don’t know the basics you’ll be playing till summer and never get them right or enjoy the car.

Hi ok there quite simple carbs when you say open the chokes do you mean the butterfly’s ? Sorry if this sounds like teaching grandma to suck eggs but did you adjust the idle screw ( on the carb body itself ) or the BALANCE screw on the linkage between the two carbs. the reason I ask is the idle screw opens the chokes the balance screw adjustment is to get them to open the same amount which it sounds like your adjusting

Hi 0k what carbs are you using

Bentley gauges are quite accurate but it’s not the gauge I’m worried about- never thought of them as anything more then a slight indication of engine temp now with regards to bypassing the stat I put a second stat in the top hose effectively blocking off the rad -no difference the engine only runs Luke warm- you can leave it running an hour and still hold the top hose the side effect is poor heater but logic says it MUST get hot unless it has the most efficient heater matrix in the automotive world.

Hi if I’m reading your question right the wire comes straight from the ign switch to starter solenoid it’s the pink wire on the ign switch loom.

Hi. Tried the stat thing this is it’s third. !!! Yer done the blocking off half the rad -used a sheet of Perspex it just runs cool !!

Hi chaps. Just throwing this out there for ideas. my Bentley engine does not get hot. It gets warm but not hot. so done the usual new stat (yes original equipment ) even run it without the viscous fan until the electric ones cut in still the car only gets warm - yes I know logic says if the main electric ones cut in and out then the engine (coolant) MUST be up to temp but you can still hold any hose and it’s only Luke warm. Yes the electric fan switch might be kicking in to soon -they NEVER run with viscous connected (there there for the condenser-with a back up facility for engine temp) but I just can’t get the engine up to running temp. so any ideas. ???

I bought the expensive e marked LED bulbs and GBS put it through the IVA with them. So technically my zero was type approved with LED lights

Thank you both for your answers just bought my third zero and there is so much electric tape on the wiring it’s a fire waiting to happen.

Hi don’t suppose anyone has the wiring diagrams for the international gauges by any chance. looked on the net all I can find is the old style wiring. The new stuff has a multi plug in the back.