Grim

I've cleared all posts not relating to the advert.

We'll continue to meet at the new venue: Monk's Bridge Farm Nobel Way, Dinnington, S25 3QB Coming eastbound from the M1 J31, take a left at the roundabout by the red lion and proceed for nearly 2 miles, and Monk's bridge is the 4th exit off the next roundabout. https://goo.gl/maps/TcekDG8AHPQ2 Usual time of 7:30 on weds 3rd August. Andy

12v normally on negative side of coil: 12v supplied to positive side, then the wire back from the coil is momentarily earthed to create the spark. You would read 0v with an oscilloscope with engine running, but not with a multimeter. Switched live will have some continuity to earth through various components to earth. I did have an issue once with a loose HT lead, which caused the to spark to earth through the hall sensor in my dizzy, frying it. Might not be your issue but worth a check! hopefully someone with some experience of your setup will post. What system are you running?

sorry 2b, but you can't quench harden copper. I believe rapid cooling is actually better, but i can't remember the reason behind it

short answer is no. One or the other. Both on main will cause them to overheat and you'll have short bulb life. If both light up on dip, you may have the pins wired incorrectly

the handbrake isn't very good until the pads bed in, don't panic yet

after a poor experience with powder coating, i've been using tractol 816 primer (1 coat) and 327 top coat (2 coats) for anything that needs painting on the car. After a couple of years including running through winter, and i haven't seen any imperfections on my wishbones. A tin of each is about the same price as 1 tin of hammerite. It's quite a flexible, durable paint, unlike hammer*bleep*e which just chips off. Save it for your garden gate.

there are various potential causes for stalling after coming off the throttle. Many ecus are programmed to cut fuel when you lift off the throttle, which operates above a certain rpm. If this rpm is set too low, as the engine is slowing and the fuel comes back in, it wont have time to react before slowing too much and stalling. Another potential reason could be the idle control, which is set by having the throttle butterflies set slightly open, and controlled by the ecu altering ignition advance to achieve the right rpm. Or perhaps the fuel / ignition map might not be quite right in low load/rpm regions. Perhaps a little rolling road time with a knowledgeable operator to fine tune a few points would be the best option. Changing things like fuel pressure will most likely mess it all up, particularly the normal running, which seems to be ok? Andy

when i ran out of fuel once, it dragged muck into the fuel pump which killed it. I fitted a pre-pump filter along with the new pump and never had the problem again. As you've got some fuel flow problems, i suspect your problem is similar. I don't see how changing from emerald to omex would improve the situation, but i'll form an orderly queue behind 2b cruising if you're getting rid, as it is a good system.

Hi all, I didn't hear anything negative about last month's meet, so we'll continue to meet at the new venue: Monk's Bridge Farm Nobel Way, Dinnington, S25 3QB Coming eastbound from the M1 J31, take a left at the roundabout by the red lion and proceed for nearly 2 miles, and Monk's bridge is the 4th exit off the next roundabout. https://goo.gl/maps/TcekDG8AHPQ2 Usual time of 7:30 on weds 6th July. Andy

Are they 1.9" shocks or the 2.25"? The smaller ones fit much better

Welp...

i'm sure you could average 43mph if you didn't ever sleep

I suspect an issue with the top mounting bush being held incorrectly. The bracket in the chassis should clamp up against the inner part of the shock bush, and not able to touch the outer. I can see some washers used as spacers on the top mount - my guess is they are clamping the outer part of the bush, or contact it under loading. Gaz shocks usually use metallastic rubber bushes (or rose joints). If the bush cannot deform, then the shock shaft has to bend, which would likely cause a fatigue failure. Now i see your edit: misalignment of the top and bottom mounts would have the same effect, the bushes can only take so much . Ideally you would have them as inline as possible. If the coilover was wound up too high, you could be in a situation where it became fully extended frequently. This causes a knock in the suspension, and would cause cyclic stresses on the shaft possibly leading to fatigue. In this case a longer shock (with spring) would be beneficial. Andy

filled my 7" diff recently and it was over a litre to the filler, the 7.5" might be more.

Is that really copper pipe? that will only be cosmetic at best, will not withstand the force of a 5kg head in a 10g impact situation (numbers plucked from the air). I hope it's steel. If not, £5 will get you a decent bit of stainless solid bar. Solid is overkill, but it was the first thing i found! Cheap safety. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stainless-Steel-15mm-Round-Bar-Rod-304-Grade-Choose-Length-/130657369506

Cut a hole in the transmission tunnel! Sounds brutal but is the only real solution. Have done it myself.

I suspect the shoes will still have residual fluid absorbed in them. I don't think they would be very effective.

ah, looks like a good setup. Doesn't look like it should have a problem, without the leaks. Do you know the diameter of the master cylinders? Do you have a very long pedal when braking? leaking cylinders will limit the amount of pressure applied and give a long pedal. Are the rear shoes contaminated with fluid? Self explanatory problem!

what is your problem? Is it just that the unservoed brakes feel too firm, or are you getting brake fade? Brake upgrades can fix brake fade but is an expensive method of reducing pedal effort. What master cylinder have you got? If you have a sierra setup, you may be best swapping to a smaller diameter m/c, or fitting floor mounted pedals and twin master cylinders of the right size.

jonny, looknig at photos you have posted, it looks like you have the 'zeemeride' shocks. Contact dampertech / rally design for replacement GAZ shocks and springs as a fairly straightforward swap.

Hi all, Some members have asked if we can try a different venue, due to the slow service for meals and irregular staffing of the bar at the Red Lion. So, the June meet is at: Monk's Bridge Farm Nobel Way, Dinnington, S25 3QB Coming eastbound from the M1 J31, take a left at the roundabout by the red lion and proceed for nearly 2 miles, and Monk's bridge is the 4th exit off the next roundabout. https://goo.gl/maps/TcekDG8AHPQ2 Usual time of 7:30 on weds 1st June. Andy

sorry to hear this, it's really *bleep*ty when this happens. Happened to my better half last year. I run a dashcam in the kit, i have been meaning to get one in my runabout too.

your new front track is wider than the rear?

if the rack is a sierra, the track rods will have been shortened to suit the narrower track of the sliding pillars. You could just replace the track rods with standard items, assuming your new wishbone setup has standard track width.