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The bulk of it can be removed one of the stanley knife paint scrapers just use new blades. Ive not found any solvents that break it down to any great extent unless you can soak the parts. Problem is the solvents tend to evaporate off before they can attack the sealer. Steve

With it being a bus it makes it more complex. Follow the link on this page http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Drive...cles/DG_4022564 By the looks of it your liimted to a trailer MAM of 750kg

Cheers Tom your spot on. I'dont have the switch thats the problem, But after looking at the manual 10 mins in the garage should be time to make one. Thnaks again Steve

Hi I've just been given a Pioneer KEH-P4930R head unit. But theres a bit missing on the back near the iso connectors, The hand book decsrirbise it as switch. It looks like some sort of jumper anyone know what it is and if I can bypass it. Cheers Steve

Phil Dipped and main relays plus one each for the fuel and fan. I've got the four fuses from the VG loom plus one to the head lamp relay and one to the radiator fan relay. Half of the VG fuse are unused as I've no heater or wipers. Just used lighting and switched igntion. Hope this helps but it all depends on what devices you have on your car. Steve

Use a hacksaw blade out of the frame with tape round one end to make a handle to cut the grill hole out. I'd use a jigsaw for the bonnet cover the area whit masking tape to stop the jigsaw scratching the ali. Steve

John I put a 1/2 bsp tee piece in the heater loop (No heater fitted). Then from memory I used a Datsun Sunny thermostat. 1/2 bsp is near enough 15mm thread (used ptfe and a o ring to make sure I had a good seal). Steve

With the VG loom you should have got the other half of the multi blocks, To patch into the ford conectors. If you did'nt get them go with grizzly's plan and solder them together, Or get some new multi blocks. Steve

Big Hammer

If you get the standard rack the arms will need extending. The GBS one has the arms allready extended.

The tab bit is for the lamp. The rest of it rolls round the spare wheel carrier to form a giant P clip type affair. Hope this helps

Gaffa tape and cable ties sort most things out. Steve

Well Done It's a great feeling Steve

Try http://www.rswsolutions.com/ for EAS software and info. And here http://www.ecufix.com for the bits to make the cable and links to loads of ODB stuff. Graham of course you can have the engine, As your a member I throw a free P38 body and running gear. :-) Steve

Yep Shes in good nick. I'm only the second owner, The first owner gave it a privileged life style heated garage etc,

Selling my Rangie Details here http://www.landyzone.co.uk/classifieds/sho...hp?product=3667 PM if your intrested Steve

Have a look at these http://shop.edoperformance.co.uk/braille-n...ery-p-9366.html

Just fiited mine and would like to thank Peter for the superb wedges. Needed to mod the tops as martin did. On the whole a very quick and easy job did'nt even need to take the shoes off. The only problem I had was lining it up when reassembling the light was'nt very good and I was a bit cramped. So came up with this. But the two top bolts in from the back of the carrier hung the wedge then the backplate on the top two bolts, Then but the bottom two in before turning the top two the right way round. Steve

I need to adjust the camber on the front wish bones, But I've made life difficult by welding and gluing the cycle wings on. Before I could just remove the the dummy strut to adjust, But with the cycle wings are in the way so I need a plan b. Don't fancy spliting the ball joint from the strut as It's a real pain to undo and tighten. So I was thinking about removing the top bone from the chassis, Front bolts a doddle to remove just leaving the awkward but possible rear bolt to woory about. Anyone else adjusted the front set up this way, Apart from the rear bolt are there any pitfalls I should watch out for. Cheers Steve

I'll see that and raise by one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Six_stroke_engine Steve

Steve Try a wanted in your local freecycle group or similar. Loots also worth a try. Have a chat with the local scrappies / car supermarket but make sure you get the v5. Good luck pinto powered are getting thin on the ground, Plenty of DOHC still around. Steve

I used 8mm bolts straight thought the chassis. No problem with the SVA. Steve

My two pennys worth. I've attended and camped over at few shows over the years. And enjoyed them all thanks to the efforts of the committe in organising the club events. I think it's all about the size of the club. Best way I can put is, If you go to a small localish pub for the first time you'll soon get chatting to someone. Go to the in place on a weekend night then it's full of mates in groups, So a bit more efforts needed. Same with the show events loads turn up it's the place to be. My first show ever was newark one of the biggest of the year, And very much the big pub. Grabbed some beers a folding chair made a bit of an effort then chatted away till late. One way possible way to helpget the party started. Could the area secs could do a meet and greet type thing for thier local members. Only an idea To everyone involved with running the club please keep it the good work. You have my full support and praise. Thanks Steve

Good look with the re-test, The built up inspection is DVLA red tape, engine and chassis numbers where the bits came from etc. Its not a pass or fail type test if you meet the critira you get a donor age related plate if not you get a Q plate. Expect the DVLA to cock it some someware along the line, My first v5 had it down as a 19 year old pickup truck Search for Paul Jepson he'll sort the DVLA side of things for a small fee as its pot luck when dealing with the DVLA if thay know what there doing. Steve

Cheers Just hope I don't need to take the Rad off to get the pully off, Job for next weekend then. Cheers Steve