Snapperpaul

127 128.5 V6 pistons have a deck height 1.5mm lower so cosy rods and V6 pistons solve a problem Pinto rods 6,800 continuous Pinto injection rods 7,000 continuous But can go to 7,200 & 7,500 in short bursts Lighten small ends and ARP will give a longer life Cosworth pretty much as many revs as you like I fitted Cosworth rods to Pinto crank and machined V6 pistons for circlip retention of floating gudgon pin Also fitted +2.25mm to injection rods with ARP bolts Pistons have a rev limit and most cast Pistons can be marginal at just under 8k

You do realise the V6 piston deck height is lower than Pinto Pistons so on Pinto rods they will be 1.5mm down the bore at TDC meaning you have to deck the block quite a bit. Cosworth rods are 1.5mm longer but have floating gudgon pins so Pistons need machining for circlips

I added Gaz shocks with 120lb springs and did the tie bar modification A huge improvement I have pictures of how to fit Gaz, Robin Hood uses smaller bushes and bolts so you need to drill out the bottom mount holes and the wishbone tubes It's simple enough

Bike carb choke mechanism is disabled by the throttle action that's why the engine stutters if you dab the throttle while using the choke

I'll be at Stonliegh Monday if your there, u2u me your mobile and I'll reply with the same May consider tent as well as I'm off to Le Mans in June

Camshaft rotates at half crank speed so should be able to narrow it down to top or bottom Screwdriver on the rocker over and ear on the handle will pin point it Kent cams spray bar has larger holes for more oil flow You've replaced that one with a standard ford spray bar

What your experiencing is the difference preload can make On my car the original 180lb springs were to hard and the anti roll bar joined both sides making the front rigid across the axle I changed to Gaz on 125lb springs and tie bars and can now adjust the ride heigh as well as seeing the individual front wheels move independently in bounce and rebound

If your engine is as Ford built it with little or no upgrades, and I suspect from your description it is probably so, then there is little you will gain from an expensive exercise. Rolling roads near where I live can cost £100 an hour, a basic power run can be £40+ That would tell you if you at least had the power Ford intended. However, and I think it's been said to you before, the cheapest and most simple route to 20% more power is to fit a 2.0L then every modification you would make to your 1.6 to achieve 2.0L performance will add more power on a 2.0L.

I used to Frost/Por stuff in the tank, used it again to sort an inlet manifold with porous welds and use the degreaser on the engine and engine bay

http://s750.photobucket.com/user/snapperpaul/media/kit%20Car/DC9C98B4-19DF-4B12-A2D3-4C302D96BA75.mp4.html

The first "fix" Several reasons but in simple terms removing the aluminium front housing that holds the crankshaft oil seal because I could not pull the seal out in situ solved the initial problem as I could push out the old one and push in the new one easily. Then the problems started, refitting the housing with seal in place produced 2 issues First the housing also holds the rubber sump seal and won't go back unless you drop the sump I can't do this without pulling the engine out due to S3 engine bay floor. The seal needs to push on in a straight line this is difficult because sump seal needs to be compressed. I pushed the sump seal down on the sump and used the housing bolts to pull the seal on to the crank. Remove it all again, remove the oil seal, refit housing without the oil seal. I checked crank for rough edges, grooves or ridges, used very fine wet and dry to remove a few dings left by previous attempts to get pulleys off and pushed yet another seal into the housing using a steel tube of the correct diameter.

Interesting, I'm looking for something similar but want to retain screen, hood & doors Where did you get that done?

The more the better I have spent a fortune on Mikalor type clamps

The oil leak Looks like the thin part of the seal picked up on first rotation of the crank and spat out the edge. I had a lucky break, pulling the auxiliary drive pulley and the cam drive off with relative ease and didn't need to pull the engine out, next weekend I'll replace the sral

If you read Dave Baker of Puma raceing web archive on running engines and cams in you will see that you can run an engine in, in about 20 mins It's the rings your prepping nowadays, the many miles of running in was for badly honed bored where a lot of the work was to smooth them out But don't take my word for it, there is info online

The small hose 16mm I think from pump to inlet is used to equalise block temp on warmup particular the head I know people block this off I don't Ford did a lot of work designing the cooling and this pipe is part of it Very very high power Pinto's even run a feed system through the rocker cover into the head to get more flow. Blanking the pump to head pipe can cause head heat issues and head gaskets can be compromised Now this is not a "don't do it" post it's just a cautionary note

Coming into this thread at a late stage so will only give observations. I immediately spotted the thermostat bypass issue with the header tank providing the flow through. Simply holding the different pipes as the engine warms up should indicate which warms first Taking cap off header tank should show if you have flow through. If you have a working system and are running low temps then great most of us suffer from hot running. My only only issue is reading the temps off the ECU and the assumption that this is a correct reading, I would try and get a second temp reading just to be sure

My initial thoughts are that parts for the Dolamite suspension will be hard to find If you have the skills I would seriously consider buying the Haynes Roadster book and using the plans and the jigs to fabricate a front and rear double wishbone setup with Sierra hubs that way you engineer out unobtainable service items

It's all about the head chamber volume Is it standard 50cc or has it been skimmed and therefore smaller combustion chamber It should be in the spec sheet I should imagine it's close to standard, a photo of 1 of the chambers, spark plug hole to head face will give a clue Also has block been decked? Piston to deck gap is important If it were me Rhienz gasket off eBay 1.3mm thick gives a smudge more compression, there a very good gasket and cheap

It's best to get pressure on the gauge before firing up Best nethod is to pull the dizzy and spin the oil pump but that causes the timing to go out or pressure to drop before your ready to fire unless you have Megajolt Next step is to disconnect spark and crank until you see pressure on the gauge If you running an oil thermostat be aware that you need to fill the oil cooler and pipe work or when the oil thermostat opens your oil level will drop

Alex I have a set of injection rods with low compression transit Pistons on them, I took them out to fit Cosworth rods and V6 pistons so they have been in the workshop for a while, I think I also have new ARP rod bolts somewhere If your interested I can do a deal

You do realise the pinto gudgon pin is interference fit and not a home mechanic job to fit? The company that are grinding the crank should be able to do the job. There are 2 types of rod, standard and injection Injection has an F cast into the rod flank, is stronger and will take more revs for longer. You want all the same rods so don't mix

If your running FR32 and have a distributor chances are your ignition is advanced for idle and that is to much for cranking, not much you can do unless you go Megajolt and set a less advanced cranking ignition I had a starter issue that with a jump from a large diesel car smoked and made the diesels lights dim I replaced with a high torque starter and never had an issue again

I fitted a Sierra adjustable column so can adjust height and reach Also cut and welded brake pedal to off set it a bit If your using the kit Recaro seats they are high