FERRINO

Before shelling out £34 posted for a pair of sealey motorbike spring compressors - I was just wondering if anybody had a set lying around from when they had a sliding pillar setup that they would like to sell? I'm sure I could borrow some but would prefer to have a pair of my own as I'm sure they will be on and off a fair bit when trying to find the right springs etc. Would be grateful if you could drop me a message if you have anything please. Cheers Tony

Hi Ken. That's a 'sliding pillar' 2B model looking at your pictures. I'm currently in the process of building one myself to try and get through the IVA. Cheers Tony

Hi Danny - I'm currently in the process of doing the seat belt mounts for the 2B I'm building. Hoping to get the last bits of angle cut and welded in the next week or so. I'm nowhere near Norwich I'm afraid but can send you pictures of what I'm doing (rightly or wrongly) if it helps? Cheers Tony

I'll take the brake pipe flaring kit please Richard. Cheers Tony

Definitely agree with all the above - I'm going through the pain of building a 2B at the moment and love reading any build threads and blogs I can find on the net

Thanks for the bits Dan - was good to meet you tonight. Just to confirm for anybody else that is interested - Exmo nosecone is identical to 2B conecone (pictures of it offered into position on my 2B) Cheers Tony

Hi Kevin - I'm in the same boat at the moment looking to fit a bike can to a Pinto motor. I was originally going to buy a brand new st.stl Martin Keenan silencer but the overtime has dried up at work so am now having to do it on the cheap too. A friend gave me the original silencer off his Fireblade for nothing - he assures me that it was embarassingly quiet on the blade so hopefully it will go through IVA with it ok and the best part is that none of the bikers want them so you can pick them up on Ebay for £20 or sometimes less which is why he never bothered selling it. It's also incredibly light. The Blade can is a 3 fixing 'bolt on' flange jobbie rather than a slip on type. So I'm going to fab up a flange to fit with a flexi welded to it so should hopefully be a fairly easy fit. Its riveted at the ends so is repackable and just then needs a 90 degree rolled tip exit pipe swapping on the rear and hopefully job done. Cheers Tony

Thanks Peter - the rims are now shod with 205 50 15 Yoko's (the pics are from a couple of months ago) Thanks for the heads up Al - The front arches are just 'plonked' in position at the moment. I'll be getting the support bars triangulated-welded and powdercoated before I go drilling any holes in the cycle wings so will make sure they are covering everything they should be. - No worries about the pics Charlie - I realize mine is quite an unusual setup so didn't think it would help you too much. I'll butt out of your thread now and hopefully the guys who already have theirs on the road with more traditional setups can help you out with what you're looking for. Cheers Tony

I'm building a sliding pillar 2B at the moment as well and have gone for 15" 8.25J ET0. Went for the zero offset as I wanted the wide stance look and so there is definitely no problem with them hitting the sliding pillar spring etc. I'm not using the standard metal arches at back though, having some 12" wide black locost arches delivered later this week and had to buy some 10" wide fronts. Cheers Tony

Superb! Many thanks

When you find the correct one that fits nicely in the nose cone for the sliding pillar, is there any chance you could send me a link or info please? I'm a little while off that stage yet but I'll be wanting a proper Polo rad or similar when the time comes. Cheers Tony

Do you have a picture of your MK silencer at all please Mower man? I might be in the market for one soon and the fuel tank I had from him was superb so would def use again.

I bought a pair of these seats from them about 5 weeks ago. There was a weeks delay initially due to an inept employee who no longer works there thankfully but once they had sorted that the seats arrived very-very quickly with great communication from them and their courier. The seats need a touch up on the rear as you can see from the pics and one of the threads in the seat base was stripped which I've since sorted with a helicoil but for the price they are great and insanely comfy with the padding fitted. I would recommend them for the price for sure. Cheers Tony

Hi, I recently had a set of 2B build DVD's off Simon B on here. Fantastically quick delivery too. Drop him a message. http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showuser=4714

Thanks again for the link CMA. Martin has just got back to me and can do an alloy one (bit smaller but that's probably better anyway) with catch tank for the same price as the naff mild steel one on Ebay - superb!

Thanks for the replies chaps - much appreciated. Must admit I don't like the idea of mild steel at all, but was struggling to find off the shelf alloy ones with a swirl pot (especially for less than £200) on the usual sites. I guess Ebay isn't always the answer - it's just the usual place I head first tbh. Just dropped an email to MK Engineering. I've sent them the link and asked what the approx cost would be to make it in Alu. Fingers crossed. Cheers again Tony

Being a relative newbie to this - I was initially going to just buy an alloy tank with a catch pot on the bottom for my build. Then I spotted this on offer On Ebay:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190349047541?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 My question is, are mild steel tanks ok? Seller says there is no coating of any description internally, just powder on the outside. Don't they rust inside?

Sorry to drag up an old topic with a stupid question, but presumably the Zero nose cone doesn't fit the 2B does it? I assume not and have tried to search as I'm sure it must have been mentioned several times before but not finding anything?

PM sent - thanks Chris

Membership package? I must have done something wrong somewhere by the looks of it as I joined about a month or so ago and haven't received anything?

Many thanks for that Bob - you are a star! As I said in txt - will pop the money in the post for you at lunchtime I've attached (hopefully if it's worked) the picture Phill kindly sent me of his sliding pillar rack below. It looks like I just need to cut the triangle clamp bit off my existing Sierra joint and clamp + weld it into the pinch block as below? Cheers again everybody for all the help. This club is awesome

Many thanks for the replies and help everyone - its very much appreciated. It seems that I wasn't given that important steering column part then with my kit as both Phill and Clive have the same one piece shaft with the big steel pinch block. I have to wonder what RS was talking about then on the build DVD's as he clearly shows that you mod the Sierra Intermediate shaft and bolt it to the stub on the rack?? It would be fantastic if you did have a spare column I could buy off you Bob - you would be a lifesaver and I would owe you several beers Cheers Tony

Many thanks for the email Phil - just wondering if there are any other sliding pillar 2B owners out there that maybe had similar issues?

Thanks Phil - I'm just headng out to work in a minute but will drop you a pm later. Cheers Tony

Evening all – hopefully there are some sliding pillar 2B experts out there who can help me with this as it’s doing my Swede in now lol! Since buying the heap of a partially built sliding pillar 2B I’ve removed the 1.6 Emax motor and replaced with Derek Overfields 2.0 efi package (cheers again Derek). Decided to tackle the Steering/pedal box first so I can at least manouvre the thing around a little easier. I watched the build DVD several times and have attempted to follow the instructions and see what's what. I was very lucky to have been given some pedals already cut/shut by Derek which fit my footwell perfectly and allow the pedals to operate properly. The footwell panel already had 2 holes drilled in them by the previous builder. One goes between the brake and throttle and the other is hidden behind the brake pedal with this setup. After buying a Sierra Intermediate shaft and modding it as per the DVD - I hammered the other end onto the stubby shaft from the rack (which I'm assuming is the upside down Metro rack??) and connected to the triangle uj. There was no way on earth the 2 peices were going to tighten together as they hit the straight tube frame section which rises up from the rack position and becomes the steering column support. The only way I could get the shaft bolted up was to rotate the steering rack round around a bit to 'raise up' the rack connection stub. I've stuck a spacer underneath for the time being but do you need to fabricate a tapered wedge for this rack setup? On the subject of the rack, I set it to it's centre position in terms of 'turns' on the input shaft. I also checked the adjustment thread was equal lengths at the tie rod ends and the clamp for the rack on the drivers side doesn't line up with the 'pre drilled' holes? As you can see from the pic its about 10-15mm to the right when viewed from the front? The position looks about right as if i put it in the pre drilled hole position the UJ is far too close to the frame riser so there would be no chance whatsoever of the steering column fitting. Can anybody shed some light on all this at all please? From watching the build DVD I was expecting this to not be too bad - but I'm having to lift/move/adjust/bodge so much stuff that I'm beginning to think I must be doing something horrifically wrong somewhere? Any advice or help gratefully appreciated. Cheers Tony