Mrbarry

Have fitted my new wheels today, 15 inch team dynamics 1.2 in the end because they came my way with new RainSport 3 tyres for a song. They look a bit lost in the arches after removing the 17s I had on there but Im sure the handling will be better as a result. I will be advertising the old wheels on eBay but have no idea what brand they are, was hoping someone here might be able to help. They are 17x7 et40 made in Italy. I know no more lol. I do know the tyres are Autogrip P308 lol. Good old 205/40/17s.

That may take some time

Lots of places to look then. Shouldnt be a bad job as the car is in bits at the moment anyway. Going to hit a good few jobs in one hit. Thanks for the replies and Ill be sure to check the hose rating thanks.

Exactly the sort of reply I was hoping for thanks. Some where to start al lease. I also know some standard cars run a small expansion bladder and a solenoid valve that only opens with ignition as a breather. Also shuts it you go shiny side down.

I have a zero roof to sell never used. Dont think it will fit tho but I have no real idea.

Feelin ya. Started a simple small job this week and have a list now....

Had the zero some time and Ive noticed a smell of fuel in the garage a few times. This week its been sat with a full tank and it smells quite strong. There is no smell in the boot when I lift the cover, but as I have the center consol out to replace the speed sensor after the last one met its fate when it hit the prop, the smell is strong in the garage. It seems to be emendating from there. I can find no wet spots etc but havent searched too much yet. Is there a common place to look such as breathers etc? One job leads to another with a kit huh. Got some nice quality leather to retrim whilst its apart, and Im going to get new seat runners and 5 point harnesses because I dont like 4 point ones without anti submarine seats. Wonder whats next...

If its been left dry the seals can shrink and then they pass so its a good chance its that imho. My brakes dont do that they just dont stop you very well. Its on my list....

You dont feed amps you draw them, doesnt matter what rating the fuse (circuit protective device) the current drawn is a result of resistance (in ac circuits impedance Z). The rating of the circuit protective device must be such as to prevent undue damage and fire risk, and to remove the supply before the cable it protects reaches failure. There are tables, there are rules of thumb, there are calculations. As for switching with a room stat connected to a PCB, its likely tho not guaranteed that you wont be switching more than 0.01 amps. Control circuits work on a very low level and use transistors to switch relays, the relays switch the power to the relevant hardware. Its done this way to minimise cost, size, component wear, risk to safety, all sorts. It also alows for simple programable ICs to be used to perform multiple different sequencential opperations dependant on what conditions are met without a mass of wiring and relay logic. Its all quite elegant as a solution but can be costly when it fails because youre cornered in a market. It also allows comparisons between multiple watchdog systems on a board to satisfy gas regulations to name just one, all for pennies. Im not going to comment if you can or cant use this because unles you have qualifications you shouldnt be working on home electrical systems or gas. This hits both lol. But as for it causing damage, if wired correctly it would be fine. The biggest risk is from cheap components or poor workmanship in assembly but truth be told its all made in China. QC is different for known brands normally but I use much of this Chinese stuff in my home and am satisfied its ok.

Room stat controls nothing as such it simply tells the board in the boiler one of a number of condiotions has been met. The board then closes down the hearing cycle in a set sequence. Last thing it does is stop the pump, it kills the flame first and continues to run the pump until the heat exchanger reaches a low enough tempteture that the latent heat in there wont cause over temperature damage. The fan continues to run until a purge of gasses has taken place. Etc. The switch however is exteemly simple yet is governed by many mechanical principles and many regulations and laws drawn up by governing bodies who seek to ensure the afore mentioned principles are met. Can explain more if you want to know more but its yawny.

I have front repeaters.

Kit cars rarely keep m you warm. Every time I drive it seems to be freezing cold.

Results are in. 140bhp torque curve is flat and smooth tho and engine runs sweet as a nut now. Got to fit new ignition leads because they are apparently poor, Ive been advised to replace the battery (so I have) it was causing popping and banging on cold start because of volts drop. Then check the ITBs are balanced, change the throttle cable set up so that there isnt sooooooooooo much travel between zero and full throttle, then put fresh fuel in and Ill get another check and tweak. The fuel was over 12 months old and I never thought about it until today :-O rookie mistake to make. On the drive home I discovered the brakes are sticking on slightly, stopped on a hill and it didnt roll. Put a tow under the brake and lift the pedal 5mm to the top and it rolls back. So need to fit a return spring on the peddle. I do wonder if that was binding on the dyno. Never know now. Other jobs Rewrap the nose cone. Retrim the tunnel cover. Get the speedo working (sensor issue) Stop the exhaust rattle Swap the light/wiper stalks for late spec ones I have. Fit new wheels and rubber (coming Saturday :-D) Drive it lots. Should keep me busy.

Going to use mine this week too. Its finaly finished ready to go. Glad I didnt sell it now

Having looked I tho l mine is a Mk1 engine not Mk2. So 140bhp ish would be good then all tho he being equal. Turbo next year was always the plan, just enjoy it for now whatever as long as its strong and sweet.

So, what results would you expect for a 1800 Mazda on ITBs with emerald ecu? MK2 Mazda engine. Mine will be mapped this week and Im interested in other peoples resukts as a comparison.

Wasnt a criticism, just an observation

Will give them a call next time thanks. I did join the club last year but membership expires December 31 not a rolling 12 months, so Id need to join twice for the insurance to be valid. Ill join in January anyway, Shane to join in the 10th month lol. Yes yes Im tight I know.

Im with Footman James. They are one of the specialist kit car companies. Still ask daft questions.

So you call for an insurance quote and they ask if its a 2 or 4 door. Erm, no mate. They ask if its convertable, sort of. Is it modified? What??? Its mafe from old jam jars and a few bits of string. What is standard on a kit car. Sounds like a way out if you claim to me. Any thoughts.

Going with the sparkle effect handbreak cable my self.

Why not have a nice quality car and another 20bhp?

Some nice work but I dont like the colour or the colour of the seats. I do like the attention to detail and the leather roll bar cover is a nice touch. Ok it adds weight, but not a lot and for a road car it would t be worth worrying about.

Anti bloom thinners is so cheap why wouldnt you? Primer is always a must if you want a good quality job that will last. Look at plasticizer to give durability on flexable surfaces. A decent DeBliss or similar will put the paint on effortlessly. Air needs to be nice and dry and I like to spray at 30psi, yes its slower than 60/70psi but gives a flatter finish and needs less flatting and mopping. Its also more forgiving for a novice because it lays the paint down more slowly. You can get paint that dries under UV lights for a faster turn around and saves oven backing. You can do many things but it all comes down to whether you want a quality job or just a passable job. Dont confuse primer and etch primer. Etch primer is for galvanized and plated material and alloys. Its also extremely toxic and I wear full BA when I spray etch primer. It contains cyanide not to mention other carconagens. It has to be sprayed in controlled environments too with fume scrubbers to prevent next doors plants from dropping dead, not to mention their kids. 8 years ago a scrubber failure lead to a body shop where my friend works being fined and the resulting loss of plans life in the gardens for quite some distance had to be paid for buy them too. So blatantly flouting the rules could see you getting a good slap on the wrist. Standard primer is all you need to overpaint.

The government want cash to be scrapped. Electronic payment only via card or transfer. Cash payments are a good way to dodge tax, sell stolen goods or hide movement of funds. They want to screw us for every last penny, and they will.