Longboarder

Dot 4 or dot 5.1. Both glycol based and mix with lower and higher spec fluids. Avoid dot 5 (silicon based) which doesn't mix with anything other than itself. Nigel

Even if based on the sierra diagrams it might be much modified. There may not be an ignition relay. If there is then it will have double size blades because it carries a beefy current. If you can access the fusebox easily then running a new ignition live feed to the fuse would be good. Tracing and fixing the faulty feed to the fuse would also be good. Taking the wiring to the wipers out of the fusebox and using a new ignition live and an inline fuse would work but is a bit scruffy. However, glad you have narrowed it right down and a fix should be easy. Nigel

Because Kitcars have such random parts it would help if you could tell the components in yours. Are you using sierra stalks? If so what part number. It's engraved/stamped on them. 84 sierra should have a number begining 83BGXXXXXXXX. Next what wiper motor are you using? Usual choices are the sierra motor or the lucas motor. Both should have 5 wires to them and one of those wires in each case should be live when the ignition is live. Depending on your builder that ignition live should be a fused live. So first check is the fuse. No potentiometer. The two speeds are simply two different circuits.(Unlike heater motors where speed is varied by resistances) Intermittent if further controlled by the park circuit. If the ignition live supply to the stalk is bust you get nothing. If you have supply to the switch but the ignition live supply to the motor is bust they work but don't park and there is no intermittent. Not sure what 'module' you have. The sierra didn't use a module for slow/fast/park circuits. Just the stalks and motor. Yours may have had a fixed interval delay wipe relay or a variable delay wipe relay with a rheostat. Either could be fitted or none. (I would pull the plug on it for the time being while you work on the main system) Nigel Is Bournemouth in a different time zone?

Looks like a series 3, 3A, New 111. The picture below is the one you have to take to clearly identify the model. There is a listing http://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm which shows details of the front suspensions, the best way to identify the various monos. Nigel

Trying pic upload. Yep. Error message gone. Issue resolved. Thanks. Nigel

Last week I tried both uploaders. Been using the basic uploader for years without problems. I also deleted a couple of pages of pics. No joy. Perhaps a recent update to Flash or windows or whatever has messed things up my end. Nigel

Using postimage or imgbb is just potentially recycling the photobucket debacle. I have dozens of images stored on this board itself. They live on in their threads. So many threads on other forums and this are useless because the photobucket images have gone. Photobuckets business model failed. What chance do postimage or imgbb have for longevity? I would like to know why I get a 'the server returned an error during upload' message when trying to post an image. I note that locost builders have very few photobucket markers in older threads because they have on board storage which is usable. Ours was fine till about a week ago. Whats changed? Nigel

Twin 40's, a 285 cam and a little amateur clean up of the ports (standard valves) got me 118bhp at the wheels. (A good 130bhp at the flywheel). As snapper said thats lots in a seven type car. Nigel

Another vote for the raceline rail being poorly designed. Who puts a stat at the end of a pipe with no flow until the stat is heated by the non existent flow. Their instructions used to say fill, get up to heat ignore the water that is pushed out. Let cool. Don't worry that there's now a load of air in the rail. Just run like that. Sure you can make it work after a fashion with various bodges. Expensive garbage. (Unlike their zetec sump which is perfect if you have a type 9 box.) Nigel

Try this. http://www.djglo.net/car/lights/lights.html For some reason I can't post pics anymore, even tiny 10kb ones but three quarters down this long page is a pic of the relays panel behind the fuse box. LHD but uk cars are a mirror image. Nigel

Probably above the fuse board. If there is a separate relay(s) for wipers. You need hands like a gynaecologist to change them. However VAG are also commonly putting in a 'convenience unit' which will have to be electronically interrogated for fault codes which controls all sorts of cabin stuff including wipers. You can't do much diagnostically on VAG group cars without buying VAG COM/VCDS cable and software. Experience has told me it is unlikely to be the motor, wiper mechanism or switch (except for heaters) and much more likely to be loom or electronics. Nigel

An interesting suggestion! Block off half the rad. Don't change anything else and have a drive. With half it's previous cooling capacity the temperature must change unless the DC pump adjusts to still maintain 75C. If it does that then it would prove that it's working fine and is still internally set on 75deg. Nigel

Try 10 then 8mm. That's some efficient system. Checking the obvious, you have got the circulation in the right direction? Polarity of pump correct so it's not running backwards? The positioning of the control sender makes a major difference. Top hose or bottom hose although just where in those hoses is minor. Interesting that it still maintains 75deg despite the halving of pipe diameter. Surely that should have allowed a rise in temp, even if only a degree or two. Just a niggling suspicion that it's doing its job fine but it thinks 75deg is the set temperature, despite what you are doing with the controls, and it's maintaining that. Presumably you have the controls to choose the max/min temperatures you want it to run. What are these currently set at? Nigel

Come in handy box drew a blank. Sorry. But readily available on ebay for 15 quid. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-MONDEO-MAVERICK-TRANSIT-CONNECT-1-8-2-0-THERMOSTAT-HOUSING-16v-1-4-1-6-/171779114491?fits=Model%3AMondeo&hash=item27fed545fb:g:q-sAAOSwARZXnzX2 I'm 99% sure the silver/blacktop fitment is the same although early phase 1 engines had ally housings. The one linked to has holes for gauge and ECU temp senders. Nigel

Can't upload the pic so post removed as it doesn't make sense without.

OMG. What you're saying is you have no idea of your oil level. You know some is in there but not if it's high or low. I couldn't cope with that. I would have to have the sump off and sort it. Nigel

I don't think that's a goer. If you join the bottom hose on the inlet side of the pump you just make an uncontrolled rad bypass. If you join on the outlet side of the pump you may get reverse flow from bottom hose to rail and possibly very reduced flow through the engine. Either way will run hotter, probably much hotter but no longer controlled. You need to introduce something to reduce flow rate below the current minimum. C.D. suggest this by refitting the stat but a stat is a variable flow reducer complicating things for the pump controller. i.e. as the coolant gets too hot the pump will speed up and the stat will open. Both increase flow and you are likely to get wild fluctuations in temp. I think introducing a fixed obstruction might be the way to go. You could make up some plates to fit in place of the stat in your water rail that have different sized central holes. I would start with a 20mm diameter hole. That would slow flow some but leave the pump in command of temp control. Then trial it and go up or down by small increments. Cheap, easyish to fiddle with on the road. Probably don't need jumps of more than 2mm at a time. Nigel

Might just have a faulty filter casing or the sealing ring has got itself distorted. I would slap a new filter on and grease the sealing ring faces to make sure the ring seats nicely. Have used Champion C 104 on zetecs for the last 10 years. Shorter than the standard zetec one but not the shortest available. Nigel

Going back to basics, with a properly designed system, the radiator should have excess cooling capacity to manage the hottest day and crawling traffic. Yet it is still able to maintain the correct running temperature in mid winter. So too big a radiator should not be a problem. The stat works by reacting to the temperature of water leaving the engine and by variably obstructing it continuously changes the flow rate to maintain the exiting water within the required temperature limits. As I understand it the DC system is the opposite to this. The pump runs continuously but has a variable flow rate. It electrically monitors the temperature of the water leaving the engine and responds by varying the speed of the pump to change the flow rate. So by that reasoning it's running too fast. Each cooling system is unique. Viscosity, obstructions, pipe sizes, rad cores restriction, etc. I take it you set software or switches or whatever to maintain a temperature. Possibly 85-90C but its maintaining 75C What would happen if you told it to maintain 100C? Might it run at 85C? The other way you could try would be to artificially slow the flow by introducing a fixed restriction. (But this rather negates the whole point of having electric pump and sensor.) Nigel

I'm guessing the sensor for the pump is in the rail close as poss to the outlet on the back of the head? Nigel

Have you removed the old mechanical pump? If its still in circuit it will have an effect. Can you do a diagram of the cooling circuit please. Include all parts, pipes etc. Nigel

Don't know but if you want a seal try http://www.burtonpower.com/rear-oil-seal-type-9-5-speed-gearbox-gbt9702.html Nigel

Relatively common problem with zetecs in sevens. Westfield board published a duff cooling circuit diagram which has been much used so lots their zetecs suffer from overcooling too. IMO the raceline waterail is a flawed piece of kit. Never fitted mine. Sold it at a loss. Much better to use the original stat housing. Never had a problem with silver/black/ST zetecs in mine. DC leccy pump may well make it all good for yours. Nigel

Yes. Fiddly job but can be done. (As I recently found out with putting the terminals on the wires to my VVTPro ECU. Had a 50% success rate before I stopped crimping and soldering and just crimped.) Similar terminals to the Emerald ones. Bought spares from Maplins as it used a molex plug. Nigel

I don't know the structure of the block plug but most have individual female connectors crimped on the wire end and pushed into the block where they are held by a metal tang on the connector so they don't come back out easily when the block is pushed into the ECU. It may be that you have a faulty connector 4 or that the tang was not engaged and the connector has pushed back part out of the block. You can try to part disassemble the block and investigate. Yes they are tiny and difficult to fiddle with. Some blocks will disassemble, some you have to probe with the right shaped instrument to lift the tang and free the connector from the block so you can examine it and rectify/replace the connector. Difficult but do-able. Nigel