richyb66

Get some photos of the shell showing the VIN plate and a few that show where your donor parts have been removed so you can demonstrate that you stripped a single car in the unlikely event that you're asked to prove it. I kept the reg plates off the donor and the rivetted on VIN plate. To get an age related plate you need to the engine number to match what's shown on the V5, most other bits could have come from any similar car so their actual provenance isn't generally questioned. Age related registration means your kit will get a plate of the same registration year as the donor, not the actual donor plate so the fact that it's marked as non transferable shouldn't matter. I take it your donor isn't currently on a Q plate? This might complicate things because Q plates can indicate that the age of the vechils cannot be determined. Other main reason for non-transferable plates are on older vehicle (pre-1963), if you transfer an older style number off the vehicle, they'll put a replacement number on it of equivalent age and then put a non-transferable marker on it to stop people pulling old reg numbers out of the system and flogging them as cherished plates.

It'll help if you identify the stalks you have by their part number first - early stalks are positive switching later ones are earth switching. Post up the part numbers and you'll be away. You're looking for something like 83 BG ******, 87 BB ******, or 90 BB ****** Wiring for 83 BG would be this:

To not need an IVA, it would need to retain it's current registration and there's several possible ways to achieve this as far as the DVLA are concerned. These are the most likely 5: REBUILT VEHICLE. Retain 2 major components from Suspension (front and rear), steering, axles (both), transmission, engine Retain original unmodified chassis or monocoque. So not possible by this method https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/rebuilt-vehicles KIT BUILT As current kits, but where all new components are used (and can be proved) - if this can't be proved then it's a Q plate. Not possible by this method either https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/kitbuilt-vehicles KIT CONVERTED This is what we'd call a kit based on a donor. If the 2B was the donor and the Zero was the new kit, it'd need an IVA that same as it would have originally. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/kitconverted-vehicles RADICALLY ALTERED Something altered from original spec, but not a kit. Keeping the current reg is based on a points system - you need 8 points but 5 of these MUST come from an original or new unmodified chassis or bodyshell. There's no mention whether the chassis needs to be identical to the original so this is a grey area but given that they assign over 50% of the required points to the chassis, I would think that they would expect to see a like for like replacement. (Like a new Heritage body used for an MGB). https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/radically-altered-vehicles RECONSTRUCTED CLASSIC Built from genuine period components, all over 25 years old. As the chassis is new, this wouldn't work either. https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/reconstructed-classic-vehicles So Radically Altered looks the most likely but I personally doubt whether a new chassis would qualify either to the letter or spirit of the regulations. Obviously if GBS know for sure that this method can be made to work in every case and can provide more information then I'd be very interested to see it. would be classed as a kit conversion. For this you'd need to retain 2 major components (simple enough) as well as the original unmodified chassis or monocoque (which you'd be replacing). https://www.gov.uk/vehicle-registration/kitconverted-vehicles

Not too far away from you: http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=34470entry263728

Picture?

Obviously depends on what size quadrant you start with. I plated mine over and it rubbed through the nylon coveing on the inner cable almost immediately.

http://nw.rhocar.org/clutch%20pawls.htm Not all engagement problems are quadrant related: http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=32315

3 minor fails on your test and now a simple re-test - well done. It's great when all the hard work and heartache pays off.

If GBS want to come on here and defend their customer service and delivery times, I'm sure people will read it with interest.

That must be where they get them sent from if their normal delivery times are anything to go by!

Reminder for tonight.

Is this on or off the car and how bad are the bends? If it's off the car and you want to straighten coils of new pipe before you use it, then roll it between 2 sheets of plywood. If its on the car then either straighten it carefully by hand or if it's badly bent, just replace it. Personally I wouldn't re-bend all copper brake pipes because of the possibility of damaging it and having the pipe fail.

WTF is 5d??? Does it look, feel, smell, taste and sound like real carbon fibre?

On mine I used some 3mm thick black plastic and added a strip about 30mm high across the bottom of the screen frame (30mm high in the middle, more at the sides obviously). This allowed me to mount the screen higher which gives better vision and more head clearance with my surrey top fitted. If you've got no groove in the underside of the lower part of the screen surround then fitting a plastic strip would be more difficult.

My spelling is generally excellent - it's the co-ordination between brain and fingers when typing that seems to be lacking.

I don't normally watch F1 but this was on yesterday while I was having lunch. I found it so boring I actually couldn't wait to get back to glossing 5 doors. I did see 2 programs on BBC4 last night though, One about Hunt vs Lauda in '76 and the other about Jim Clarke - proper exciting stuff. Obviously no-one wants to see a return to the times when there were several fatalities a season but for me I think they could no with making the cars a bit simpler to make the racing a bit more exciting.

and your post edit was a result of what????

The inventor of predictive text died yesterday. His funfair will be hello on a sundial.

A fly came into the house yesterday, flew around a bit and then exploded. Turns out it was a jihadi longlegs.

That's an excellent result, sounds like 3 pretty simple fixes. Well done!

These water issues aren't unique to Peugeot. The C6 shape Audi A6's (c2004 onwards) also suffer from water in the plenum panel at the base of the screen getting into the fusebox and ECU due to blocked drain tubes. Big bill to fix due to high parts cost and lengthy labour to swap parts (fusebox, harness and ECU are one of the first things fitted to the body when cars are built). Cleaning and unblocking of the tubes (dirt and leaf debris) was added to the official service schedule for these cars and allegedly Audi wouldn't accept warranty claims for water leaks unless the car had a full, documented service record.

Next Wednesday, 26th Movember , 7pm onwards, Malt Shovel Pub, Coventry Road, Nr Stonebridge, Coventry, CV7 7HL https://maps.google....ingdom&t=m&z=15 Entrance to pub car park is off the A452 Chester Road heading North 50 yards from the island. The more sharp eyed of you who attend will notice that I'm doing my bit for Movember in support of Macmillan Cancer Charity. I won't be actively chasing people for donations so you're fairly safe but if anyone wants to sponsor me, I'll will have my sponsor form wth me. See you there!

Basically because the stuff has to go somewhere and as cars become more complex and have more stuff on then, there's less sensible places left to fit things. The overiding concern is usually making the car easy to assemble because this is where the big time and cost savings can be made. I see these sort of issues every day at work and find it very frustating. Additionally, it's basically impossible to make anything 100% waterproof if it's mass produced so some some degree of water ingress is inevitable and things will ofter get damaged as a result.

If it's taken on water and has corrosion issues in the wiring, it's not going to be an easy fix and probably not cheap however it's done. Given that it's a 7 year old car, this leaves 2 options: 1. Put 60spi in the front tyres and part-ex it for another car. 2. Cut his losses - torch it, try to make it look like the fire started in the fusebox and let the insurance sort it out. Sometimes it just isn't worth spending money on costly repairs.

If you're building a 2B, don't forget to look at Colin Usher's site if you haven't already. Plenty on nice clear photos on there and very easy to navigate. I found it very useful during my build. http://www.colinusher.info/Robin%20Hood/index.html