fry61

And make your shim washers at least as big as the bush diameter.

A mod to your title may gain more replies!!

On our 2b I cut the floor-pan in half before fitting,turned the inner edges up to finish vertical with tunnel chassis tubes & then rivited tunnel sides to this upturn;gives full length access to prop & also the hand-brake which I've mounted on tunnel top. Can't see an IVA problem as it follows mass-car practise.

It is possible to powder coat non- metalic; have seen a coke bottle "coated" think they put the earth electrode in the bottle; & I forgot to mention the metals I wish to blend smooth are aluminium & s/steel, thanks for your help so far.

In the old days we used celloluse putty to fill the minor dents & scratches before painting metal body-work; what is used to-day, I intend powder coating some kit & want to smooth fill before hand.

They would have had a little more control IF they had taken their foot OFF the brake occasionally--look at the brake lights-- when visible they are ALL on.

Very poor effort; shoud have tied together at least 3 sheilds together to make a decent sledge!! None of them could of had the hoodie "I can make it better" gene---or their R & R breaks are too short.

Self-employed kindling wood manufacturer & sales-boy, paper round with W.H.Smith, evening parcel delivery for W.H.S. , 5 year apprentiseship electrician,then self-employed spark for 8 years,taught at local tech. college, owned & ran tool shop for 26 years (took time out to gain PPL Balloons) sold business & now retired & enjoying non-stop playing (how did we ever find the time to work)

Also look at Longboarders post "mini wiper motor" 14-10-2009; it worked for me.

Ours may end up being all s/steel BUT it will be a very poor brother to the ally one above, wish I had that level of tin-bashing skill.

We are currenly working to that end,but in brushed stainless,so far the nose-cone is completed in S/Steel,& now trying to make the wings. But progress is slower than watching the snow melt--still it keeps me busy & away from all other chores.

The trace heating wires are approx 5watt/foot so 200 feet=1kw= 15pence? if you need that long you need to replumb the condense tube!!

Always thought lower tyre pressures caused tread to close-up & therefore the tyre had less edges open to bite the snow-----or am I so old that the above only applies to cross-ply tyres.

Insulation will help, but in these temps I would suggest a heat -trace wire of a few watts/foot would completely solve the problem; but as said above more complecated & more expense.

Have hundreds of circlips-- give us some measurements; ID OD & thickness, will see if I can help.

Denso retails between £75/95 so there's a fair bit of £ room to get the rest right; in my retail business if you got it wrong you corrected it plus something extra by way of "sorry", not tell customer to get the fix elsewhere; 'cos elsewhere is where he goes next time, first.

The outer tube of your old Sierra shocks are a tight sliding fit in the roll-over tube (must be greased or it gall) plus 3mm mild bracket will make a better fitting top mount than GBS supplied; but if you want a quick fix I have an un-used GBS set.

Or Scotch-brite the whole lot!!

Probably a dumb idea -- but how warm is it in your 'shop--freezing cold engine & battery plus old fuel will not help.

GDC, you said in an earlier post "feel I can build anything now" -- So I said " Lead Balloon" (thinking this was impossible) was directed to site with video of lead balloon;brilliant!! ( another thing to add to my very large book of "things I don't know) so suggest concrete parachute as next search. This reply to first flip-pant comment is in danger of sinking like a--lead ballon/concrete parachute/chocolate fire guard.

Forecast is for temps to be 10+ by week-end; so if it's sunny as well we've had the full pack in a week --- without it what would we talk about!!

Flat 50 x 3 mild steel x 2 pieces-- welded together to match floor/seat-back panel & long enough to bolt onto S/steel "ears" (which carry the sierra sub-frame tube) Then inside car mount 50 x 25 x 3 channel x 4 pieces running front to back to bolt to angle above & cross chassis tube supporting rear of gear-box--mounted so seats bolt directly on. This give me a firm floor,better location of sierra tube & rigid seats, also bottom seat-belt mounts on new angle give good location. P.S. Unlike Martin's picture above; I shaped the seat back panel to miss the sierra sub-frame & did not cut away for the prop; it will go over O.K (my tunnel has no floor--- yep another mod by me.)

ONLY if the dog had a licence & not been drinking--you know what the germans are like with their beer

Agree with GDC, if you're in a hole supply-wise the last thing you need to be using is a bigger spade. Gbs used a monster spade when supplying our 2B, being an optimist I was beginning to think they were improving; only time & more posts will tell.

NASTY--- but good you're still O.K. although squeezed & shaken. Is this a reminder not to over-rubber a lightweight rocket; thinking maybe skinny tyres for every-day road use.