fry61

Do you also have an inertia switch & is it closed?

A cuddly assistant for extra hands,coffee,out of workshop activities!!!

Take pikkies of all parts used, before installation & after.

A cheaper solution --- domestic door or window draft seal

I filed a very small chamfer on the inside of the 'bone + lub & they were an easy push fit in the vice; take it slow, bushes must be pushed in dead square, release vice often to check. Also I fitted grease nipples to the 'bones -- when finally in place charge with lub. it will pre vent water ingress by capilary action & off car makes remmoval of bushes just a matter of pumping in more lub. to force out the poly-bush.

Man who thinks like me--- my workshop rafters are pallet-wood & the doors & the bench & the off-cuts kept me warm.

Thanks for your help & the nos. seems a better set-up than magnets

Do you have a part no. for the sender & was the standard gear-box hole with circlip the point of attachment,thanks?

Firstly,use clean newly stripped conductors; strip about 25mm if bunching to a point & twist all together, heat joint with a 25 watt iron & dab multi-core solder wire onto the joint (may help to have a little solder on the iron to aid heat conduction) when solder starts to melt into the joint continue feeding solder until strands of conductors look "soaked" in solder, remove heat & allow to cool with-out moving the joint,trim soldered joint down to about 10-12mm. Insulate with heat shrink sleeving or PVC tape. OR go the quick route & use a very large insulated crimp terminal. For straight inline joints re member to slide-on the sleeve before soldering. (I wish I remembered this last point more often)

Try to make all holes in chassis & 'bone line up by using a long steel rod (silver steel is v.good) same diameter as bolt so that after "fettling" the dowel passes thru the complete chassis/bone assembly; then your bone will be rotating around the same centre as the chassis; if this is not the case your bone will bind when moving up & down giving rapid wear of bushes & a stiff rotation. If you need to remove a lot of metal to achieve this may be necessary to weld a thick washer on chassis to make hole round again, all the best,Bob.

The head/dip switch is only an either/or switch so they must all have a common supply (to the head/dip switch) from the lights off/side/main switch so tap in there, then to fog switch & on to (relay if you need to change polarity) fog light/s. Longboarder is the man who knows all the pin numbers & hopefully will correct me if the above is porkys.

Good effort but Fred Marriot did 127mph 103 YEARS ago & his engine was piston powered not jet aircraft techno turbine;the advances in aerodynamics,tyres,bearings & fuel burning should be capable of a lot more;but it's to be stuffed & mounted at Beaulieu after this session of runs.

If it's not 2.5mm radius it needs covering to make it so.

Looks good, but all the sharp edges; the whole trigger;would need covering to make them 2.5mm rad. & has it got a "normal" ratchet?

From an engineering point of view, how do you get the studs correctly tightened AND the hex lined up with the spacer slots!!

7 cubic foot is the swept volume of the pump; it can never be pushed over into the tank; a good pump of this size will prob. deliver 5cfm to the tank, so sounds as if you're O.K. A good compressor manufacturer will tell you both figures -- swept volume & delivered volume; if not ask for it,the lower cfm is the useful stored capacity.

Thanks for your reply & offer; help is always welcome , --- the early birds will get a bacon butty --- after set-up. Looking forward to more similar posts & a great week-end.

It's a pity all compressor sellers mix metric & imperial measures -- 150 litres = 5.28 cu.foot; compressor pump figures are cu.foot of swept volume -- it can never push all swept volume into tank;so as I mentioned before go for highest power of motor.

Unfortunately Fozzy the "leak" is consuming about 100 litres an hour;every hour; so current flow would be very small,probably less than wind driven movement across the 3000sq.foot surface. On a weeky drain it's a big bucket-ful -- 17,000 litres & will take 30+ weeks to empty the pond;guess I'll have to keep looking,thanks for your input.

Point 2 is correct if you use drain valve to release pressure; but have you still got a "wet" tank slowly corroding away?

We've done as suggested by Fozzy & corked the fish;no joy; there's near 500 feet of perimeter to check once/if the water stops going down; was hoping for an easier answer than spendind hours bent double checking the new water-line --- cheers for input so far.

Hi all, we have a large pond which we think is leaking;seems to be loosing more than evaporation. It holds approx 500,000 litres & is plastic lined (industrial reservour stuff) Question, is there a gismo that I can buy,borrow or bodge that will tell me where the leak is? I was thinking along the lines of resistance test between water (full of fish so no high volts) & surrounding soil;resistance would be lower where hole in liner & soil probe were close & closer would give lower reading. Help would be great, it's an awful lot of buckets to empty,regards Bob.

Turn the diff over --- hey --- now we got 6 reverse.

Go for the biggest pump you can afford; a larger tank will only reduce the frequency of the pump cycles ( cut-in at L/P -- run -- cut-out at H/P -- tank pressure falls to cut-in L/P ) I can run a 3Kw pump on 13A socket with only an occasional blown fuse; which my wife replaces while making the next coffee ---or vice-versa if she's doing the spraying.

Got loads of carpet as supplied by GBS but it's very dark grey; is that any help?