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I didn't think you'd have any trouble selling it - anyone we know ?

In my humble opinion I thought the show was better than the last couple of years and we definitely had a better turn out. I'll do a bit of a write up for the next magazine. If anyone has any decent photos from either day I'd be grateful if you could send them over to me as mine leave a little to be desired ! Thanks, Steve

Good question. I would guesstimate 5A for the ignition and another couple for the alternator so well within the capabilities of a 15A fuse. If the fuse hasn't actually blown I would suspect a bad connection to it - crimp to fuse or crimp to wire, that would have got everything hot until it failed. I would replace both crimps and the fuse and see what happens.

3 days on and I've still got the aches and pains from all that wriggling !

The joys of car wiring. The horn stopped working on the cobra last weekend. The horns themselves worked, the switch worked but the supply to the switch dropped to about 6V when you pressed it. After several hours of wriggling round on my back under the dash I found a corroded connection which took just a couple of minutes with the soldering iron to sort out. All good now ................ until the next thing 🤪

I'm pretty sure the QCC1585 is the cossy cable but it would be good if you could confirm.

Sorry, latest BBC weather gives light showers on Sunday and it's also an unwritten rule that if I take the cobra out of the garage it will almost certainly rain on it before I put it back ☹️

Now I'm not known for being too well organised and it might be a bit late to ask this question but ......................... is anyone going who's got a club flag ? (No, I haven't). I'll be there both days & might put my van on the stand on Sunday then we can shelter from the rain with a brew 😄 Steve

This has got to be one of the best 2Bs out there. Richy's workmanship is second to none. This car should be worth twice Richy's asking price, the drive train alone is worth that much. If you're looking for a 7 style kit this has to be the bargain of the year. I would bite his hand off for it if I could sneak it home without my wife noticing 😜. The first serious buyer to see this is going to buy it and think they've stolen it. Steve

If you have the Sierra pedal box and a type 9 gearbox the standard Sierra clutch cable fits, however, it is better to fit a longer one such as the Quinton Hazel part number; QCC 1585, which can then be run round away from the exhaust & manifold. I bought one for mine last year from "Parts in Motion" for about £15. Steve

Unfortunately there are that many possible combinations for the accelerator cable that you'll have to take the old one off and try to figure out a suitable replacement. If you put a picture of the 2 ends and the length on here someone will probably be able to identify it for you. No idea what's going on with the hazards ! Steve

Anyone going who likes Potteries oatcakes ? I'll bring some with me and you can sample real "haute cuisine" 😄

Call me cynical but I'm not convinced - do many people buy tickets that far in advance for these shows? I would suspect that the vast majority buy near the date or pay on the gate, it's not as if it's going to be sold out and you can't get in. If these companies are expecting large numbers of advance ticket sales before they go ahead I doubt there will be many shows taking place.

Ooh 'eck, we're nearly famous ! No word as to why it's been cancelled though, I had a bit of a search on tinterweb but couldn't see any official reasons 🤔.

Hi Terry, can you stick a photo up - someone might recognise it.

Looks like this has vanished - I was trying to check up on it but I can't find any details of it on the NAEC site, nor on the carshowco site. Looks like it's been cancelled ☹️

OK, I've got a pass out 😄 I'm planning to get there midday-ish Saturday and leave Sunday afternoon. See you there 👍

Hi Callum, Do you know if he was ever a member of RHOCaR (as this club was originally known)? If so our membership secretary, Alan Richey, may be able to find some information on the car. If you have a record of the SVA test or anything relating to it's registration it might help to track down it's registration number. There may well be some members from the Manchester area who remember your grandad or his car (if he was involved with the club) but you may have to wait a while for a reply as many members don't visit the forum every day. Good luck with your search, Steve

I'll be there Al, it looks like they're really trying to put a good show on and, as you say, if we don't use it we'll lose it. Not only is it free for car & driver but it is also one of only a few shows where you can come and go as you please. I'm tempted to stay over as pre-booked camping is only £10 (or £15 on the gate), so I might see if I can get a pass out for the weekend. Anybody else fancy stopping over? Steve

Try this version (same document, different format). Steve 1799851615_Hoodtubes.pdf

Hi Jon, Yes, that looks to me like it definitely belongs on the left side of the car.

All being well I'll see you there 😀

You might be better off starting a new post and explaining your problems - I don't think "Takumi" has been on here for a few years.

Crunching or clunks into reverse sounds more like clutch drag to me - the synchro on the forward gears will cope with it but reverse is the first to complain. I'd check your clutch operation first and make sure it's fully releasing. Hope this helps, Steve

What engine do you have fitted ? The 38DGAS is generally aimed at "V" engines with each barrel feeding one side of the V although there is no reason why they can't be fitted to something else. The design is "standard" Weber - the idle jets control the mixture on part throttle and low revs whilst the main jets control the mixture at full throttle and high revs. The idle screw only controls the mixture at tick-over. There is also the pump jet which controls how much extra fuel is squirted in as the throttle is opened. You can waste many a happy hour swapping jets and trying to get it right (guess how I know) but a session on a rolling road is the best solution. However, if the car has run OK previously on this carb then the jets are probably correct. If the car has stood for a while I would recommend you strip and clean the carb as modern fuel seems to like evaporating and leaving a residue in there. Check the float height is correct as this also affects the mixture slightly. Also check your fuel pump and filters. While it's apart you can check the jets sizes. These will depend on the type & size of engine, camshaft and ignition but I would expect somewhere in the region of :- Idle jets 50, Main jets 145, air correctors 200, Emulsion f50 for a 2L pinto. Both barrels operate together so both sides should have the same jets. There are some good videos on youtube about stripping and setting up these carbs such as - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsnF-kjCxYo Hope this helps, Steve