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Sorry but I won't be able to make it - we're looking after Kelly while her carer's on holiday. Steve

Hi Neil, I'm not going to make this show I'm afraid - the engine is currently in bits to replace the water pump and sort a possible air leak on the inlet manifold. I'm hoping to get it back together this week but don't fancy a 300+ mile round trip to find out if it works OK !! Hope it's a good show and you can tell me what I missed, Steve

I would be reluctant to set the float height to anything other than standard - it does have quite an effect of the mixture but not always in a predictable way. I think your choke sizes are probably too big for a standard 2.0 SOHC Pinto engine - the original type of twin choke carbs fitted to these had 26/27mm chokes (or there abouts) and gave good results, but swapping chokes is a lot more expensive than jets, particularly if it doesn't solve the problem. One thing I did wonder - is your ignition timing correct? and is the mechanical (and vacuum) advance working correctly? If I think of anything else I'll let you know. Steve

I don't know a lot about IDFs but most Webers work on a similar principle - the idle jet controls the small throttle opening/low revs mixture until the mains take over at 2-3000 rpm. The mixture screw sets the mixture at idle speed. Have a look at the idle jet size - you may need to increase this to get the mixture right on part throttle and low revs. Everything tends to interact as well. Do you know what size chokes are fitted - smaller chokes (and smaller jets) will give better bottom end at the expense of top end power, and vice versa. On DCOEs you probably wouldn't want much bigger than 32mm chokes for a standard Pinto. 130 mains and 50 idles would then get it somewhere close. I suspect the IDFs are not a lot different, but I can't be sure. Unfortunately you can easily spend weeks trying to get them set up (I've been there), but if you can find an "old school" guy who knows them he can probably do it in a couple of hours for you. Steve

Re-emissions, I've recently had the Sumo MOT'd and it's V5 doesn't give any emissions figures (neither does it's SVA certificate which I have a copy of). I spent quite a while with Martyn, (the owner of the garage who I've known for 30+ years) and , after a lot of googling and DVLA websites we are pretty sure that if it doesn't say anything on the V5, the emissions should be based on the stated age of the engine fitted at SVA. My engine is 1982 vintage so the figures are 4.5% CO and 1200ppm HC Martyn is a very experienced MOT tester and he's still not 100% certain so you may well find different test stations having different opinions. Registered in 1998 I think yours would have been SVA tested (not IVA) and I think you can get copies of the SVA certificate from DVLA if you want.

Stuck thermostat does sound a likely culprit - I had that on my pinto when it hadn't been run for a few months. Luckily I had a spare knocking about. I also drilled a small hole in my stat (about 2mm) which prevents it getting air locked. You should be able to see if the top hose gets hot when it get up to "normal" temperature, before it overheats - if not it's probably the stat not opening. Hope this helps, Steve

I don't know if this helps or confuses but .................. On the 2B you could remove the rubber "donut" from the front mount, turn the cup thing the other way up and gain 20-30mm more ground clearance on the bolt head. I used to replace the bolts 2 or 3 times a year before I did this mod. afterwards it never grounded again. Like a say, that was on my 2B so I'm not sure if it's possible on yours. Steve

I had a KA master cylinder on my 2B and did exactly as you suggest - front brakes into the dual ports and the single port to the rears. It worked perfectly and I ran it like that for many years without a problem. Steve

See you there - have you arranged the normal road works for me ? Steve

A compression test is the easiest way, assuming you can get your hands on a compression tester. Pull all 4 plugs out, put the tester in a plug hole and spin the engine on the starter with the throttle wide open. Repeat for the other cylinders and then compare the readings. should be somewhere around 12 bar but that will depend on lots of factors, it's more important that all 4 cylinders are pretty much the same. Steve

Thanks to everyone for the welcome and offers of support - I suspect I'm going to need quite a bit over the next few weeks !! A bit of background for anyone who doesn't know me :- I had a 2B for about 14 years which I spent far too much time and money on (don't we all), but I had some great fun in it. I swapped it for a Pilgrim Sumo last year which I am now spending more time and money on ......................... some of us don't learn. Hopefully I'll get it to a few shows this year if I can persuade it to run something like right. I've been a member of the club since I bought the 2B and figured it was time a gave a bit back. I'll do my best to fulfill the roles but be gentle with me - I'll probably get it wrong before I get it right. Steve

Have a word with Richard Byrne - Richyb66 on here. He can probably help you. Steve

It's not uncommon for jets to get drilled out bigger, if one is bigger you'll probably be able to see the difference if you hold them up to the light. I once had a main jet stamped 115 which had been drilled out to 135 - confused the hell out of me for a few days !! One other thing I thought of - are all the chokes the same size ? Good luck ! Steve

Hi Clive, Ran my pinto on 40s for years and they worked well once they were set up. Here's a few thoughts - Is it running rich on all 4 cylinders or just the one dripping fuel ? Incorrect float level would normally affect both barrels of the carb. so 2 cylinders would be running rich. Too high a fuel pressure can overcome the floats but that would probably then affect all 4 cylinders. A couple of things to check :- Have they been rebuilt and something missed out or fitted incorrectly ? Are the jets somewhere in the right ballpark ? I used to run 32mm chokes, 130 mains and 50f8 idles for the road IIRC. Are the float bowls clean, filters intact and seals OK ? It doesn't take much dirt to stop the float valve closing. Is there anything restricting the airflow into the trumpets ? I hope this helps, if I think of anything else I'll let you know. Steve

I think the 8mm ball normally goes to another linkage which then has the throttle cable attached to it (usually when there are multiple carbs). That's how mine was with twin 40s on a Pinto in my 2B. I'm pretty sure you can get throttle levers with different fittings, instead of the ball, if you're just using 1 carb. Try "Googling" Weber throttle linkages, or have a search on eBay, I think you should find something to sort you out or give you an idea of how you could modify what you've got. Steve

Sounds like this is not correctly registered. It must have been built in the late 1990s and so should have been SVA tested - the first registered date on the V5 would then have shown as 1998 or later. I would have a good study of the V5 before buying this if you want to run it on the road.

12 to 15 lb/ft according to mister Haynes. HTH Steve.

Just booked mine too - it must be easy !!!! Steve

I know cam timing is important for best performance but, unless it's a long way out, I doubt it's the cause of the engine not starting. My pinto ran with the cam pulley 1 tooth out following a belt change - it started up OK and it was only when I drove it that I could tell I'd cocked something up.

I always used to set it with No. 1 inlet valve wide open (the cam lobe would be down on the follower) which would be another full turn of the crank - however it sounds like the cam's in the right ball park and I think it should run. This might help explain https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/camshaft-fitting-timing.html I would try to start it a few times and then pull the plugs out and see if they're wet or dry. I they're dry check your fuel supply & carb. If they're wet check you're getting a spark and that the ignition timing is correct - somewhere round 10 degrees BTDC should get it started. Good luck ! Steve

Hi Dave, I tried both with and without vacuum on my 2B - pinto with twin 40s. I found it better with vacuum at idle and on the overrun. I used 2 small pipes from cylinders 2 & 3 into a in-line fuel filter (used as a small reservoir) then out to the dizzy. It worked quite well and I ran it for a few years like that. I eventually swapped to a fixed dizzy with an Aldon Amethyst ignition unit, but I still kept the vacuum system off the middle 2 cylinders. Hope this helps, Steve

Just thought I'd put a reminder on for this show for anyone who might have missed it. I've registered my car for it and hopefully I can make it that far !! I've also put an order in for decent weather but the supplier won't confirm a delivery date. Here's another link to it http://autoextravaganza.co.uk/ if anyone fancies it. Steve

Hi Darell, As Derek says, my 2B had a removable plate just about there. It was screwed to the floor with 4 self-tappers and made it easy to get the prop out. Ideally though you want the car well in the air or over a pit in order to do it. Steve

Hi Darren, On my 2B the nuts were welded to a reinforcing plate in the tunnel, probably very similar to Alan's. You could undo the bolt from the seat side leaving the nut in place.

Hi Alan, Unfortunately I can't make Malvern - we're going to Plymouth for a long weekend, to my nephew's wedding. I've asked him to move it to the next weekend but I don't think he will and my wife tells me I can't nip off to the show for a few hours !! Maybe Neil can pick a flag up, otherwise I'm sure we'll sort something out.