Foz

It looks like I'll be going over on the Saturday this year, as I appear to have acquired some jobs to do on the Sunday

Hi Jim, I've sent you a message.

Hi Jim, coming that way you will pass within a mile or so of our house - we are a couple of minutes off the A500 through Stoke. I'm guessing it will be just over an hour from your house to ours, and then we have about an hour and a half from us to the Ponderosa. If you fancy meeting at ours you're more than welcome, (and anybody else heading this way), let me know and I can send you the address etc.

I'm planning to go straight to the Ponderosa from home, aiming for 10:30 ................. ish

I'm pretty sure that the cap on my 2B pinto was 13 psi (0.9 bar), and the one on the cobra definitely is. Just make sure it's the type with a return valve built in.

I have stick on plates back & front of the cobra which I was assured meet all relevant requirements such as reflectivity and details printed on. I can only go off the supplier's info. for that, but it has passed 2 MOTs with them on.

My 2B had an ally radiator and an expansion tank which worked well with no problems. My cobra has a very similar setup and again no problems. I'm now thinking that this probably doesn't help you a lot though, because I have no idea if either would be OK without it.

Sounds like a plan to me. I'm trying to persuade Yvonne to come along but the weather will have a big influence on her answer

Price seems high and my cynical head says why are there loads of pictures, but none of the engine? Might be worth a look as long as you know what you're looking for.

If somebody is determined to steal your car it will be gone, but, as Phaeton says, it's a matter of deterring the opportunists or "messers". I came back to my 2B on a number of occasions where someone had let the handbrake off and pushed it a short distance, then leaving it where it was in everyone's way - with the handbrake lock on I never had a problem again. I'm guessing it was probably just stupid kids who thought it was funny.

I was always told if you've got this label on a helmet it's good for the road & trackdays. Security wise I found one of the handbrake/gearlever locks useful - it's enough to stop somebody just letting the handbrake off & pushing it around. Have a look at eBay item 175438048950 to give you an idea of what I'm on about.

See you there mate - I should be in the cobra this time ............................. unless I break it again

Thanks from me too - I clocked up 320 miles total on Sunday by the time I got home, and I've just made & fitted a new exhaust bracket to replace the one that somehow got broken . Maybe I'll get to stop over next year, here's hoping

See what you mean - just checked the weather for Huntingdon and it looks like it's going to rain all day tomorrow but Sunday looks good. I'll have a word with the boss and probably come over on Sunday instead. I should be able to get there well before 11:00 (if I don't get lost).

I've have always used the longer cable and never had one fail (yet) - as Richy says, run it between the exhaust pipes and it will cook. If you run it well away from the exhaust with no sharp bends and secure it with a couple of clips ( or even cable ties) it will work well. Have a look at the bottom of this page https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/parts2.htm

Hi Kerry, What time are you thinking of setting off for the run on Saturday? - I'm just trying to work out if I can get over to you in time or whether I leave a bit later and meet up when you get back.

This is a copy of Dave Andrew's DIY quickshift which might give you enough info. to work out what's happened to your gear lever. quickshift.pdf

It definitely sounds like you're missing something, the lever should be sprung upwards so you have to push it down to select reverse. I can't remember exactly how it goes together but there is a compressible rubber bit at the bottom of the lever which normally pushes the lever up. If this is missing or not attached to the lever then reverse becomes a lot easier to find than 1st and driving becomes much more of a challenge ! Have a search on here for quickshift because I think there's an article that shows the breakdown of the lever when modifying it for a "quick shift".

The 2B used the Ford Sierra as a donor so the steering column should be from a Sierra however, I believe there were different steering racks used and you may have an Escort rack fitted. Have a close look at the rack and see if you can find a part No. which will (hopefully) identify it. Several members (including myself) removed the original master cylinder and servo, replacing it with just a master cylinder from a Mk1 Ford Ka. This cylinder is smaller diameter than the Sierra on and so works well without a servo. There would be some pipework modifications needed and you would need to make up a new push rod from the brake pedal and re-drill the pedal box to fit the smaller cylinder.

Hi Michel, Do you know which model of Robin Hood you have? Different models used different donor cars for their parts. This page might help you to identify which model you have https://nw.rhocar.org/htm/identification.htm If you can put some pictures on of your car we may be able to help identify the parts. Steve

Hi Glyb, I used to use a polytunnel to keep mine in when it wasn't in the garage. I used a couple of ratchet straps to hold it down to the roll bar and stop it blowing away ! It worked a treat - nothing rubbing against the bodywork and you could get inside with the car if you needed to. A 4mx2mx2m was just big enough to get my 2B inside. Have a look on eBay or Amazon - there are hundreds of people selling them. This is an example on eBay - item No. 381944083432 Hope this helps, Steve

I would prefer Webers every time but it's very much down to personal choice. There are pros & cons with both. The Webers should be fairly east to overhaul (or get overhauled) assuming they're DCOEs and should already be jetted correctly if they were working OK beforehand so shouldn't need too much work to set up. I believe a lot of the Vulcan engines were built and setup with 45DCOEs (or bigger) and intended for hard driving. There will be a fair bit of work and parts required to swap to bike carbs and then they'll need setting up on a rolling road by someone who knows how to match them to whatever spec. cam, heads etc. you have. Which is best depends on who you ask, what you're going to use the car for and how you want it to drive. I bet you'll get a slightly different answer from everyone you ask and they'll all be right for them, but might not be right for you.

OOH ...................... that's got to go on my Christmas list

Put me down as hopeful, but I'm going to have to work on a pass-out for that, I'm out all day on the Sunday so some grovelling may be required for the Saturday as well Watch this space.

Looking good & a very useful write up. If it was my car I think I might have to go for a slightly larger steering wheel