Jamiep

don't think HIDs will ever be an option as I saw a report recently which stated to legally have HIDs they must be self levelling and have washers. but I agree the sealed units are cr@p.

not sure if your back end is the same as mine (car obviously) but I missed out a rubber bobbing on the strut top joint recently and it looked like that, although you appear to be parked in a dip which may be exaggeration the affect a little.

on the back of the sealed glass unit there is a circular cut out in the reflective material about the size of an old 5p coin, the side light holder is stuck to this and the bulb shines through the reflective cut out.

had a great day on Monday, thanks to Dave R for passing on the camber wedges and thanks to all in gazebo for tracking Dave down, I've forgotten everybody's name (I blame sun stroke) but thanks again, oh and Claire loved the German shepard. Spent way too much money (I had permission) just got to get mine back together now for Newark.

oh dear the wife just saw the photos and now wants a puppy...... at least you'll have something to pull the car with if you ever break down

daft question but if you get caught in a down pour is there a risk of getting water sucked into the engine? the reason I ask is many people I know had there cars wrecked in 2007 when we had major flooding in hull. much of the damage was done from water being sucked into the air intake. not trying to worry you btw just interested As I want to go bike carb route and will defiantly need to cut and hole in the bonnet.

evening, can anyone tell me if the front mounting point of the rear subframe, which bolts up through the floor of the tub. is in compression or tension when the wheels are on the ground. basically I need to know if I unbolt it is it going to stay where it is or will it try and swing down? thanks, jamie

thanks for the replys, I think I need the 2-1/2deg as I roughly measured and they were close to 4 deg. looks good but it's so hard to tell when it's going to step out it's scary, and when it does it's almost impossible to catch. if your not going to be there on Monday could you leave with the gazebo crew. I can paypal or leave cash if you know somebody I can give it too. I may even have one of them cheque book things from the olden days if you send me your postal address (I presume you can still use cheques) regards, jamie

lol guess I won't need that when I rewire, this loom is full of random plugs and unconnected wires everywhere.

can somebody please identify this part and what it's for... thanks, Jamie.

yer I think I'll give that a go first and mabe turn up some spacers once I know the length needed.

thanks Dave, I pm'd Peter a while back but I think he only had 1 set left which had toe correction too which I'm not sure if I need yet. He also sent me in your direction as he thought you may have a second hand set. I sent you a PM but not sure if it worked. regards, jamie

my exmo is boxed in the full lengh upto the rear u/j, Is this something the builder would have done or is it part of the tub. may remove if possible as I do worry about the prop twisting but not being able to see it. (sorry for hijacking the thread)

there are a few quick release bosses available which are straight bolt on items but these all bring the wheel closer the the driver. I too want a quick release but from what I've seen the hex type seem to have too much backlash. the spline type are quite a bit more expensive but you can now get some with electrical connection with in. (these are mega bucks! £300+) would be cool to have wheel mounted indicator/ horn/ flash though.

as title, I'm after some camber correction wedges, any angle really just need to stop the tyres rubbing on the tub. I'm at stoneleigh on Monday if anybody has any. thanks, jamie

if nobody else has dibs on the brakes can I have them, I'm at stoneleigh on Monday. thanks, jamie.

Looking forward to this, will be attending on the Monday in the tintop and hope to grab some bits and bobs for the kit (and a club mug )just a shame we can't get there in the hood but it has issues, least of which is tax and MOT

I have these money saving ideas from time to time, at least you got some new tools. I myself was forced to buy a new 1/2" drive torque wrench to fix the wifes car, had nothing atall to do with also needing one for the hood

there are some very good bonding adeasives available for stainless but would have to be a clean flat area and you would have to be able to clamp an even pressure over the whole patch for 24hrs. I was involved in a test using such a bond which we could not split using about 1000kg but we also had one that failed after 10kg due to the sheets not being cleaned properly. I think mowerman is probably on the right track ref: the stiff front end as it's repetitive shaking that does in stainless.

can you post some pics of the cracks with reference to where they are as I haven't found any on mine but would like to check in same areas. as for repair,I'm no expert but if possible drill the ends of the crack the reweld and possibly weld a patch too. mig welding works fine on stainless but remember to use stainless wire and if possible argon gas to reduce discolouration and impurities in the weld. if your not confident in welding stainless try looking for a local food equipment manufactures/ fab shops as they will weld it on a daily basis.

I got the wet weather kit from GBS a couple of years ago and it said for 2B on the bag it came in. The roof fits well but I had to shape the side screens quite a lot. I also had to mod the windscreen support posts, but I dont think mine are standard as they are laser cut with a 7 in them. I used mine right through winter 2009/10 and in the snow/ice and it kept me dry but very hot!

like said above high grade stainless is brittle so it will probably be lower grade similar to a kitchen sink which is in the 400's. salt water will attack most stainless upto 316 grade (food quality) and some chemicals will attack that also. always rinse off salt water and a good stainless cleaner/polish such as 3M will help protect it.

wonder if the roller switch could ativate the wipers via relays, if so a stick on logo and you have a nice all in one unit.