IanS

Is this goodby to Stoneleigh hello Malvern?

Have you got the right water pump? I believe there were 2 , one rotated clockwise and the other rotated anti-clockwise, which was fitted depende on fitment of aircon. Is the impeller still attached to the drive shaft?

NC reed switches are even more sensitive to correct mounting than NO reeds in my experiance.

I have the original stainless silencer for my exmo. It had a simple expansion box over a perforated pipe with no stuffing. It is loud you do not want. It is kicking round my garage after I got a propper exhaust.

For this to work (using the same wires) the magnet must be away from the switch when the pedel is not pressed and must activate the switch for the full travel of the pedel.

A reed switch requires a magnetic field to activate. The simplest switch is a mechanical one fittted to the brake pedle just like ford fitted to the sierra. Though I can see that fiting a magnet to the brake pedle and mounting a reed switch near by could work but would require some adjusting. Most reed switches connect when a magnetic field is applied so you might need a relay to change the switching action over.

In my experiance most of them. The bigger problem can be does the sierra sender work in your tank. The float needs to just touch ( or be a few thou off) the bottom of the tank when mounted and also just touch the top of the tank to work best. My tank is deeper than the sierra tank. I bent the arm to do just touch the bottom as I want to be accurate near running out. This leaves the float not getting to the top of the tank. I could have extend the arm but wanted to finish the build so afrer filling up and for the next 40ish miles my guage reads full but I know that I have enough this way. This has never caused me any problems so I have left it that way. Most analog guages require a voltage regulator so that the readings are consistant, this also applies to temperature guages.

A couple of thoughts. The 6mm one carries the main charging current which would be the IG and should go to the battery. The 2mm one on a type 2 would also go to the IG connection OR on a type 3 would go to the S connection. Safe says leave open for now. 1mm to the warning light. The other terminal of the warning light goes to switched live. Then do not forget the 4th wire. Every electrical circuit requires a conplete circuit so the battery negative needs connecting to the alternator body this is the 4th connection, it is normaly achieved by the mounting bolts of the alternator to the engine block and hence back through the starter earth strap to the battery. So if the warning light is wired wrong the alternator will not start charging as some current through the warning light is often used to boot start the alternator. OR painting the alternator brackets thus preventing the negative connection so no charge, on older alternators this used to fry the control electronics in the alternator, most modern ones live through this but any form of arc mig tig welding with the alternator connected can still fry the alternator. If you have a volt meter measure the battery terminal voltage just before starting and then with engine revs above 3000 rpm if the voltage rises then the alternator is trying to charge, if not there is a problem in charging. I hope that this helps

Overheating due to airlock in cylinder head??

Makes me wonder how a brit kit car ended up in Sedro Woolley. The light weight was intended as a limited life track car as I recall. Ali always has a fatigue life. P.S. 12 years ago I was working in Mukilteo just down the road from you from a Brit perspective.

PS I think that this post should be in bodywork not wanted.

I am not aware of any videos but it is fairly straightforward. Start with the frame, lay it round the rear of the car just in from the edge this will give the position for the brackets to mount the frame. It lies on top of the bodywork. If your roof has been fitted to another car it will probably not come with the press stud fittings from the body side so you will probably have to source these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/heavy-duty-press-studs/bn_7024768456 unfortunatly you will have to buy both parts but they are not that expensive. Robin Hood used press stud in thier kits but some owners used ither fittings like lift the dot https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/c-58-lift-the-dot or turnbuckle https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-14-turnbuckle-fastener With the frame fitted you will need adjustable straps / rachet straps to hold the frame(s) in place (I only use the main frame and the use the roll bar as the other frame). The main frame should end up almost over your head when you are seated the secondary frame points back and ends up very near the roll bar. The rachet straps can use the roll bar as the other end. Use parcel tape to hold the hood in place on the windscreen and check that the back is correctly positioned, adjust the frames to get this correct. Parcel tape to the back holds everything in place for the next part The next part is drilling into the windscreen frame knowing that getting wrong will crack / shatter the windscreen. Mark the frame where the fittings need to be fitted, remember measure twice drill once! Remove the hood for the next part. Obtain suitable self tapping screws to suit the fittings, the length of the screws should protrude no more than the thickness of your screen frame when pushed through the fitting, file the end off to achieve this. Select the correct diameter drill bit for the screws in aluminium and slip a section of pipe over the drill bit to limit the depth (copper brake pipe can work) and set the bit in the drill such that it protrudes just the thicknes of the screen frame and drill the frame and fix the fittings. I used stainless screws so as not to have to worry about rust causeing problems in the years to come (25 years and still going good). With the hood now fastened to the frame the rear fittings can be marked out and fitted as above but with out the need to avoid glass (but you will still need to check that there are no wires / fuel pipes etc. before drilling), some will be into fiberglass and some into metal. You need permanent straps to the back or just keep using the temporary straps. I popriveted the end of 2 straps to the hood frame and used buckles to hold the frame down when not in use https://churchproductsuk.co.uk/products/black-plastic-cam-buckles-lever-flap-25mm-fastening-straps. The strap goes through the buckle and is popriveted to thre correct length when fully pulled through. The strap wraps part round the frame so that the poprivets are not in contact with the hood. Good luck.

Blue band at top of web page. click on Portal and members map link should appear.

Whilst this is an advisory it is not going away. As I see it you have 2 choices either drop the subframe or cut a hole in the side. I would drop the subframe. It has 3 mechanical mounts as a sierra and possible extra mounts. The back of the diff and the 2 donuts. You probably need to remove the seats to undo these. The prop shaft can be easily unbolted with 4 bolts (these are rare metric fine so dont loose them) and left in place. The hand brake can be disconnected at the swivel and left conected to the brakes and the hydraulic brake disconnected and tempory covers fitted to the open ends. Support the diff on a jack as you undo the mounts and slide out.

If you have an electrical multimeter you can check the sender by reading its resistance. At the top it should be nearly zero, increasing steadily to about 1Kohm at the bottom. (it is over 20 years since I did this and I could be wrong about the maximum value but the linear increase will be there.)

There are 3 seperate senders in the one unit of the Sierra sender. 1 goes to the guage. 1 goes to the distance to empty/MPG computer. I do not know of anyone fitting this. 1 goes to the fuel low light via the computer. Again not actually used by anyone I know. There is a seperate connection for earth to which all are connected. As I recall all 3 are the same. Ford had blue/yellow trace cable for the guage. I am guessing that the one with 12V is actually from the guage and should be connected to the sender. Measuring with any kind of volt meter will not load the 12V down enough to show as they are designed to not load the circuit being looked at.

my tardis needs a retuned flux capacitor. thursday 28th july is therefore out of reach.

Well done!!

Tap test was the only test before rollers came in, some 4x4 cars have to have this test as they would need a set of rolllers front and rear to test. 0.5G for main brake 0.25G for handbrake or like my old thames van handbrake had to lock the rear wheels as empty it had no hope of 0.25G.

It should be that fitting new HC pistons as I understand that the rods are the same. When I rebuilt my engine I had it rebored and got given 2 HC pistons and 2 LC pistons and only noticed when fitting. I got them exchanged but it took time. I have not done the 2.8 piston route but understand that most builders skin the block to get the compression back.

If your V5 still states CO 4.5 & HC0.12 then this is what it should be tested to and a standard exhaust should work provided the carbs are set right. If you want a cat than https://kitspares.co.uk/collections/exhaust/products/exhaust-silencer-repackable-zetec-with-cat is probably a way forward.

Sierra pinto engines did not have electric radiator fans so your instalation is probably unique. They had fan-belt driven viscous coupling fans that in my opinion belong in the scrap bin. I have used https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/adjustable-fan-controller-thermostat To control my electric fan and power it through a switched live so it stops when I switch the ignition off. I have it set to 95C which is above thermostat fully open temperature but below boiling, it normally only operates when stuck in traffic.

Next vital thing is to check condition of brakes before moving. First does hand brake work, chock front wheels and jack back up, handbrake off can you turn each rear wheel? Handbrake on can you still turn each wheel, handbrake back off check if it is stuck on. Similarly check each foot ( service) brake by having each wheel jacked off the floor and with someone to help check rotation with brake applied and released. Verify level of fluid in brake resevoir. Obvious but check tyres for correct inflation etc. Only then think about a MOT.

Just the usual, check fluids oil and water, Gear oil, Diff oil. Take the top off the carbs and clean out any crap from the float chambers. Take plugs out and using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt turn over and check that water pump and alternator turn. If all OK then use the starter to get oil pressure, If Ok then replace spark plugs and try to start. Hope that this helps.

How about a visit to the traction engines? Not as an exhibitor (you are stuck in for the duration) but just as a get together. https://outdoorshows.co.uk/astle-park-traction-engine-rally/