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IanS

RHOCaR Member
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Everything posted by IanS

  1. I beg to differ. I use the shock bracket with lower rare springs, I do not remember the rate. Adjustable dampers can be set to what you like. But the hole needs drilling out to 0.5inch if i recall correctly. It has worked fine for me for over 20 years.
  2. In short I drilled a new hole and used the pedal unmodified.
  3. I recall that Richard had a bit of difficulty convincing the DVLA that this was a commercial vehicle for the purposes of IVA. I recall it being a pickup with a local Vets name on it and a dog carrier in the back.
  4. IanS

    Radiator issue..

    You wanted images. This is my setup, the fan is about 5mm off the rad core and pulls the air through. There are no vents in the bonnet the air goes out through the floor past the engine or down the transmission tunnel. I put the engine straight into the kit from the doner, it overheated all the time so I removed the thermostat which did nothing for the overheating. So I used Holts speedflush and an amaising amount off crap came out and now I ran cold except when stuck in stopped traffic. So I refitted the thermostat, removed the viscous fan (you can still see the screw thread on the water pump) and fitted the electric fan shown with a thermostatic switch and now run at normal temperature all the time. The engine is a 2l pinto with the doner dgas32/38 carb so gives about 100hp.
  5. A friend in the lotus7 club recently fitted electrical heating to his seats. Those low flying types need to harden up.
  6. Looking at the IVA requirements you are covered. screenshots from IVA manual. See note 1
  7. Seats out, carpet out and attack from on top. Just an idea fitted mine in 1996 and not been touched since so memory might be a bit misty!
  8. The outer swinging arm bush bolts probably have to be removed to release the subframe. They go through a reinforcing plate attached to the floor under the seats. I also have a bolt vertically up hidden by the rubber bush used to mount the subframe to the car body on the sierra as recommended by richard stewart in his build videos.
  9. IanS

    Radiator issue..

    I used similar to this to mount the fan direct to the rad. https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/fan-mount-kit-with-assorted-feet I also used https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/adjustable-fan-controller-thermostat to control the fan, fitted to the top hose. The bulb is in the top hose and feeds in through the joint between the top hose and the rad. You can probably get these cheeper on amazon/ebay. For the MOT just leave the switch on untill you can update. I removed the viscous fan as it does very little and most are actually dead as they were not long lived in the original fitment.
  10. I am up for a meet. Keep me informed. Ian
  11. IanS

    Coolant

    Araldite the tube into the block. Clean oil off the tube and hole in the block first.
  12. Vacuum advance is for economy. The only thing that suffers disconnecting it is MPG. How much if suffers depends on how you drive, if you drive flat out all the time then vacuum advance makes no difference, if you pussey foot around then 10 to 15%.
  13. Fuse is to protect the wireing not the load. Most kit looms use 2 guages of wire, high current (from alternator etc) and normal which will be OK at 20A.
  14. If it works left and not right it is not the flasher unit. Hazard switches are a favorite for this followed by a short to earth on the right circuit.
  15. I am not certain how to choose the servo as I have not seen a list of servo gains. There is another variable which is the size of the master cylinder bore. A bigger bore will give a lower pressure and information on bore sizes is available.
  16. It is not the size of the servo that dictates its force gain. The size gives the maximum force. Inside the servo is a proportioning valve that sets the gain. There are 2 springs that set the gain, The only time I took one to bits I found that the springs had a lot of stored energy (as I expected) so precautions during disassembly need to be taken. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbTUvp-tD5M Is a video that gives some idea of how these work.
  17. My attitude to this is to check continuity. With a volt meter measuring volts first check that both wires are at the same voltage. ( if volts are not the same then they are are obviously not connected) Then switching to a low resistance range check for continuity.
  18. IanS

    Starter button

    The main thing switched off during starting was the radio/tape player. This was to stop the tapes tangling, remember C90s and a pencil to try to get them staright.
  19. IanS

    Starter button

    As we use old cars as our doners I believe that all alternators need the indicator light to help them get charging so there will be some connection.
  20. IanS

    Starter button

    Quick sketch to show only the minimum wireing
  21. IanS

    Starter button

    My idea is that the alternator indicator can be used as an indication of engine running. It lights with engine stopped and goes off with engine running. So you probably will need a relay to do this. I would connect one end of the relay coil to a switched live and the other end to a normally open push button. I would connect the other end of the push button to the alternator end of the ignition light. With the engine stopped this will be near 0 volts and current will flow through the relay coil. With the engine running this will be 12+ volts and no current wil flow through the coil. The normally open relay contacts can then be connected to a switched live and the starter. I hope that this helps
  22. I should add that ECU controls hot idle by retarding ignition timing, adjusting the throttle body stop can confuse the ECU.
  23. There is a throttle stop screw on the throttle body that is preset for hot idle. Do not adjust without a very very good reason.
  24. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/163058114655?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338767030&toolid=10029&customid=eb%3Ag%3Avms%3Aeb%3Ap%3A163058114655%3BEAIaIQobChMI5M7Z2-Le8gIVErrtCh23pgkVEAQYAiABEgLYS_D_BwE&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1TVc_0P-_SCyOoDTfyi-j3g48&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5M7Z2-Le8gIVErrtCh23pgkVEAQYAiABEgLYS_D_BwE Gives you an idea of what to look for, they are robust but do need cleaning every so often, a new one should be a very last resort.
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