sj-bradley

The other side of the thermistor will be grounded through the body so the wire you mention is the sense wire, so, yes. Just make sure that the thermistor body is connected to the engine body or is grounded somewhere. I.e. don't put it surrounded by rubber hoses with no return electrical path. Simon.

I agree, "temporary" wiring tends to become permanent and scotch blocks should be BANNED as they eventually go high resistance which leads to difficult to fault find problems. Spend a little more time to cut, splice and solder these with heat shrink afterwards and you will eventually be almost as quick as using scotch blocks. (Tip - remember to put the heat shrink on BEFORE you solder the wires together again ... ) Simon.

3 year old powervamp battery? Sounds like mine which also went duff around that length of time too even though it's disconnected through an isolator when not in use. If this happens again after another 3 years, I'll be changing for a standard type instead as not much weight difference really. Simon.

Looks like the zero wishbones to me too. Simon.

Nice to see everyone again. It's been a long time between meets due to it clashing with other events. Probably see everyone again at Stoneleigh now. Simon.

yes. Simon

I think if you follow my table from a previous post above, this should work. Simon.

It's possible that the speedo is confused if you do NOT connect the white wire, it may think it is connected to a different type of sensor. It may NEED the white wire to be connected in order to sense that a hall device is being used. If it is left unconnected, there is no current flow and the meter may be trying to use either the magentic pick up or the ECU type which have different types of signal. The white wire from the speedo is the +12 volt supply to the hall effect device. You should be able to measure a +12 volts between this and the chassis. So if you tied this up, it must be isolated from the chassis. It should really be connected to the hall device power though as this is fed from the switched supply through the speedo electronics. Simon.

(You posted while I was writing It looks like the device is an active type hall effect sensor since it has the three wires to provide the power. The red +ve should connect to the white wire on the speedometer the ground black can go to nearby chassis and the white signal from the sensor should go to the green wire on the speedometer. Are you connecting the white wires together? That is probably your mistake (I can understand that you might think white -> white, but not in this case) Simon. +--------------------------------+----------------------------------+ | sensor | speedo | +--------------------------------+----------------------------------+ | red | white | | black (chassis) | black (Chassis) | | white | green | +--------------------------------+----------------------------------+

I just noticed that the signal types are mentioned on the diagram just under the picture. These are kind of difficult to measure unless your meter can measure frequency. (you also need some means to make the sensor "think" the car is moving too) The hall effect sensor will produce a 1.0 volt output when stationary and jump to over 8 volts with it in motion. you "may" see the meter flicker somewhere between these values. You might also be able to read (an average) with the meter set to "AC volts" The magnetic "PUCK UP" (sic) meaning "pick up" produces (generates) an AC signal going from +1 to -1 volts, I.e. LESS THAN chassis ground as it oscillates around zero volts. Set the meter to AC to see anything with this type of meter (it HAS to be moving to generate any signal at all) To really diagnose time varying signals like this, an oscilloscope is the tool you really need, so if you know someone who has one (and knows how to work it ) it would be the way to go. Do you go to the South Yorks Meets or are you too far away? Simon.

Which signal wire type are you using? The white or green wire? The hall effect sensor is an active type of sensor which has three wires attached, +12 supply (which goes to the white wire on this speedometer), ground and signal out (which is fed back into the speedometer on the green wire) If you are using the signal from the ECU, the white wire is not used. This is also true for a magnetic induction type sensor. Only the hall type is an active type which needs power. The others are obvious. You should get illumination when you apply power to the yellow and ground the black wire etc. Start there. The speedometer must also have the ground connected for the hall effect sensor to work (which has its own ground too) Is that how you connected it up? Does the hall sensor have a tell tale flashing light to show it's working? (Mine did) Simon.

can you post up the diagram you have got and a pic of the gauge? Simon.

Which Wednesday? Do you mean tomorrow? 1st April or 8th April? THIS one I can get to ! Simon.

If you're going to plug the hole where the speedo fits, you don't need anything more expensive than a 2p piece and circlip. The 2p piece is EXACTLY the right size and you need an internal fit circlip to hold it in place with possibly some cardboard packing as a gasket. If you're going to a different dash, then consider a magnetic type hall effect pick up which senses the bolt heads on the diff (Smiths gauges do this) Simon.

Hmm, sounds like they want to charge you +£100 to "reprogram or replace" a broken / loose connection. Especially if it has "magically" started working again. Sometimes all you need to do is threaten the electronics with percussive maintenance and all the electrons magically "get in line" again Simon.

I have said I could design a converter to go from 4 to 6 cylinders or vice versa using a microcontroller to measure the real output and to fake up the required output. Sounds complicated I know, but quite possible and would mean you could have the tacho that you want rather than one that just "works". The controller would count the pulses it is getting (you tell it how many cylinders it's reading and how many it's required to generate) and it would then create the right pulse train to suit the tacho you installed. (It would look kind of cool to see a V8 tacho on display when you only have 4 cylinders ) Simon.

The you've got to think. With the ball joints on the top, all the shock / weight is carried by only three bolts. With it underneath, the load is spread on the suspension arm and the bolts are not under as much tension / shock from every bump you go over. It would only be a mater of moments to change these to underneath and I would do that for peace of mind. Simon.

That's what everyone used to think. Turns out the bee is cleverer than that as it uses a figure 8 motion to make the wing area appear larger so it "just" manages to get airborne - Nature's helicopter Ever seen these land in slow motion? They don't - they tend to crash land mostly Simon.

What resistance are you getting on the signal wire at the sender end to the chassis ground (disconnect meter for now to measure this) I was reading ~ 4 ohms when empty going to ~ 140 ohms when full. So if you take the signal out from the meter and put it through a resistor to the chassis between these two figures, you should see some sort of reading on the dial. It may be a slow response if the meter is damped. At least you can measure the sender and test the gauge separately this way. Simon.

What sort of signal does the rev counter expect? If you're going from 6 cylinder to a 4 cylinder, it might be possible to put a PIC microcontroller in there to convert between the two. (maybe even vice versa too) I would need to know the specs of the rev counter and output from the engine though. Simon.

I second that. Without a load on the starter, it's not trying to draw heavy amps and the solenoid contacts would be fine for no load but only show the problem when trying to pass heavy amps when under full load. Simon.

If you have a pinto and type 9 gearbox, you should be good to go. Why not ask the seller? Simon.

Oh yea, forgot about the second effect of pulling the pinion in place. Still, if you paralleled a remote solenoid, the first would do the pinion throwing and the second would carry the current load in place of the burnt out contacts in the first one. Probably cheaper than buying a replacement complete starter motor. Simon.

Not yet, but I'm working on it ... Simon.

You can bypass the solenoid contacts with a jump lead from battery positive direct to the starter motor (other side of solenoid) when in the car. If it turns over quickly, it points to the solenoid contacts being burnt out causing high resistance and slow starting, You could get a separate remote operated solenoid and bypass the old one if you can not get new parts for the starter. It's just a heavy duty relay really. (Did I really say relay really ) A bit like the Classic Cider made by Dicken's Simon.