Jez Morton

Hi Alan, I think you need toe in on rear wheel drive as the wheels are pushed back, front wheel drive has toe out as the wheels are pulling(hope this makes sense). I'd take a step back and set the camber to nearly vertical with a few mm's in at top, then set a few mm's toe in and try again. If still no self centring you may need to look at the caster angles which aren't adjustable on a 2B+. I would avoid trying work arounds for SVA as this is for safety and you need it right. Jez

Of course the Stig isnt Micheal Schummacher, do you think Ferrari would let anyone drive their FXX. Thats why he was there, but what a good sport for playing along I might start to think hes got a sense of humour. Jez

In the videos it says 66" down to the back panel. I dont think many people acheive this I ended up nearer 68, I just fitted poppers near to the edge of the hood. Jez

Can I have 1st dibs on the ECU if its for injection. Cheers Jez

I had the same deal with Sureterm, was a pain in the a*%e they are. Luckily I still had my renewal letter and they accepted a scanned copy emailed to them. Jez

Andi, sounds strange something wrong with the engine or more likely the tuner. I had FR32 on standard head and twin 40s which gave 130bhp after a rolling road session, went in with 120bhp unbalanced, over fuelling and running rough. I would think your BHP would be nearer 150, a second opinion might be in order. Jez

I Have over a hundred mags dating back to 1993, will try and look though some but a closer date would help. I think British Monocoques where part of Robin Hood a google search gave 7 Oxclose lane as the address. Jez

My last RH was rolling roaded with FR32 with twin 40s and no head work at 130BHP. I would say the 40s did over fuel a bit and it would have been better on 38dgas or standard carb. You say your already at 130bhp already but standard pinto is 105BHP and injection pointo is 115BHP, what tune of engine do you have. Jez

This is a minor but anoying issue, the joint between the 4 branch and side pipe keeps breaking its seal leading to excessive exhaust popping when decellerating. I've tried silicon for flexibility and that failed so I tried exhaust paste and that didnt last. I have a 2b plus EFI pinto with the standard exhaust 4-1 manifold and silencer. Any ideas how to reliably seal this joint. Thanks Jez

This sounds like a bit of hysterisis to me, when the gauge changes direction there will be a small section of no movement at top and bottom like when gears change direction. I'm guessing when you open circuit the gauge it shows full and when the power is off it gos to empty, the needle returns to the level from either direction and the difference is down to hysterisis. Anyhow should be nothing to worry about. To test the sender you really need an oscilloscope to check is working through all its travel, not something most mortals will have. You could try measuring the resistance of the sender and move it very slowly the reading should change smoothly with movement, if it jumps around in places that would indicate a sender fault. Hope this helps Jez

The problem you will have is the RH tank has no swirl pot and the injection pump is fed from the bottom of the Sierra tank, it wont lift the fuel up out of the tank. There are number of solutions which have been on here before. One solution would be to fit an external swirl pot fed by a low pressure pump then attach the injection pump to the bottom of that. Another would be to find an in tank fuel pump not sure which one but seem to remember Vauxhall. A third option is what I did and have a swirl pot with a 15mm outlet for the pump welded onto the bottom of the fuel tank. The sender will fit okay but a return pipe will need to be attached to the tank. Jez

Hi Phil, are your still going ahead with this meet, I've mangaed to get a pass out and booked some sunshine. Jez

Hi, cant say for IVA but for SVA I did my dash and tunnel top in carbon fibre effect. I had no problems passing and not a piece of foam in sight. Jez

Happy birthday Gaz, I see your looking. Jez

Hi Dan, I'll be at the Malt shovel meet and Newark, and yes I was at the Butty run (blue 2B EFI). I think 10 tokens is enough. Jez

They should be okay the 3 lines are a standard marking for imperial bolts and I believe are equivalent to 8.8. You should be able to find a summary of bolt head markings online somewhere. Jez

Dan, I'm in Ernesford Grange just off Allard Way.

I'll go but then I'm local, I think a Sunday would be good as its city centre and would be quieter. This is a really good museum, it has all sorts of cars like ,DeLorean, Tyrell 6 wheel GP car, Thrust II and Thrust SSC and with free admission must be Hoodie heaven. PS theres a Dortor Who exhibition on at the moment but this isnt free. Jez

I tried my lad in mine hes 4 1/2 and quite tall for his age. I have Corbeau clubman seats and the 4 point seatbelt is a good fit across his waist and the harness holes in the seat do a similar job to a booster seat (booster seat wont fit). The only doubt I have is the shoulder straps may be too far apart and he may slip though in a accident, I was wondering if a strap could be used to pull the shoulder straps closer. It would be a real shame to wait til hes 11 before he can go in it? Jez

If your still looking I have a points based distributor, but it has no points in it, suppressor or cap. Saying that there are no wires on it either but they may come with the points. Jez

Dan, I have an unused pair thats been kicking around for a while, was given them but didn't need them as donor had all new rear brakes. Only prob is they have a bit of surface rust on them take a look if you want I'm only up the road. Jez

If its a MK1 sierra monocoque car then its either engine and box or diff out to get the prop out. You wont find a replacement prop at a motor factors, you could check with GBSC and see if their current props are the same length. Failing that take to your local prop remanufacturer for repair. Jez

Hi, I built a 2B plus with EFI and it all fits just?. The steering column passes between brake pedal and throttle, you can get clearance by adjusting the position and height on the shaft bearing carrier that is bolted under the pedal box mount. This can make the steering wheel a bit off but you can find a compromise. You do need to move the alterantor, I moved mine up using a piece of flat 6mm steel with a narrow piece welded on the side to reinforce and give adjuster mount. Jez

No idea, but when I changed mine to short after one had broke my local prop remanufacturer gave me them for free. Take one off and take to your local prop man they'll have a bin full of what you need, and not many pennies. Jez

Hi Lee, I've got an old 11" wheel I can bring, will stick it in the boot for you. Jez