geoff shep

Rechargeable are fine (and way more convenient) if you get a Li-ion battery version. They don't suffer the old 'memory' problems of Ni-Cad and are much quicker to recharge - about an hour from flat to fully charged. 18V is more than enough power and modern keyless chucks grip much better. I can highly recommend the Bosch 18v drill. I use it all the time for drilling and driving and have survived for about 4 years on one battery. I only bought a second one recently as I have been rebuilding the bathroom and needed a second fully charged battery ready to go. They are on Amazon at a very good price - for some reason the 2-battery version is cheaper then the single! http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-PSB-1800-LI-2-Cordless/dp/B00KX8JWDA

Doesn't a replacement V5 have to be for the same address and owner as the mislaid one? If so you would have to get the previous owner (if indeed he was the owner) to get one, then you can do the usual change of ownership bit. PS. Mine's the same - built and registered in 96 with an 83 plate and no VIN as not required at the time.

Yes, these were very common on the monocoques - stainless and steel alike. We used to stop-drill and re-weld. Also, I bolted on some extra stiffening in the form of 1" square heavy tube.

These are about the best hand metal cutters I've used. They don't bend the metal like tin snips. Did my bonnet and cut alloy gear and brake surrounds too. Mine are actually my Dad's purchased pre-decimalisation but these look the same: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edma-Monodex-Nibbl...s/dp/B000X2ENOO

Did anything ever come of this?

You may be right about the Fiesta setup. I was going to add above, that with the Sierra valve, or any inertia-based device, you will not see any effect on a standard MOT-type brake test or rolling road as the car has to be moving.

I guess the separate deceleration valve would give the most flexibility but it would take a lot of trial and error. I am not familiar with the Fiesta setup but presumably the master cylinder has to be at a standard angle so the valve is set at the same fixed angle. The 'donor' cars have softer suspension and engines further forward so I assume that the setup would be different. There was a lot of talk about this back in the 90's - unfortunately one of the demo cars had the valve fitted transversely! Have you done any hard braking tests to see which wheels lock up? I have removed the valve from mine as the fronts lock up first anyway (but I've still got drums at the back) You presumably haven't got a Haynes Sierra manual? Les: maybe being dull but I can't quite work out where we are looking - which way is you valve facing?

Spookily, I was going to ask a similar question. Those GBS engines, for instance, what else would be required, management-wise, to get it running. (Apart from inlet and exhaust swapping sides and mountings etc - and I don't currently have a fuel return line, so plenty of additional work)

You might not be as dull as me, but..... When I rebuilt my top end, I managed to get the valve timing way out - that is the camshaft and the crank. I'd lined up the cam correctly but had the crank pulley lined up with entirely the wrong mark on the engine case - it looks obvious now but there is another bit of the case that could be confused with it - if you were being slightly dull. Anyway, the engine turned over well, I'd checked that (not sure if the pinto has interference problems but my setup didn't fortunately) but obviously it wouldn't fire. When I realised, I reset the cam belt and it fired up straight away. I guess you've got the plug leads going to the correct cylinders?

Hey - an audio police car warner - cool.

You can get a 1 inch wide manifold, like this one from burton power:

I think I recognise that picture

This could be that page - a check on here should reveal the expiry date. MOT Check

It must have been a bit patchy. I ended up at home on Thursday (which was nice) as I couldn't get out of my street. I think beyond the first few hundred yards it would have been passable. * Shameless plug warning * Spare a wintry weather thought for this chap Tom Buckley on the BBC. He's the son of an ex-boss of mine - we had 4 Hoods at work when he was there. Tom's Just Giving page.

They're not - the Minari 'name' is now owned by Peninsula Sports Cars, who also don't have a website yet. More info here: TotalKitcar (updated link)

http://www.wileyx.eu/pages/productgroups.a...mp;submenuGuid= http://www.uksportseyewear.co.uk/product.p...tection-system- http://www.eyewear2gogo.com/acatalog/Birdz_Eyewear.html Some to ponder - must rush.

Are these still fairly simple tubular brackets with the ends squeezed together? That was always the weak point and, as Ian says, plenty broke - usually inconveniently on the m-way! I simply welded mine back together and they've been fine ever since - even with my amateur welding.

Maybe this? - http://www.uk.manitou.com/publicservlet/Do...local-17632.pdf

It will depend on your current (ha ha ) system. Is it the sierra system and fuse/relay box? My sierra manual shows direct wiring from battery to motor to switch for pre-'89 models and a relay for post '90 cars. Either way, the thermo switch is in the high current circuit. This is NOT the same set up as Jim's diagram, which would be obvious way to wire it if starting from scratch. The relay in the sierra setup (as shown in Haynes) acts to isolate the system with the ignition off. So, if you have the sierra setup, even with a relay, it's either a fat, high current, run through the switch OR you would need to add an additional relay, activated by a dash switch. So first, find out what the existing setup does.

Unless of course he does actually mean an 'override' switch - to override an existing system. In which case you just need an alternative switched supply to the relay.

Been around a while, and untrue apparently - from 2005 on Snopes

Plenty on ebay - this is the one

My gut reaction would be to very careful - the only reference I have found on the web to that name is this - I don't read the language but it appears to say he is from Vilnius. HERE

Ooh - I'd be interested in the hood set please. What type is it - what is it made of I mean?

Everyone gets/makes/fits/talks about silencer covers. But the silencer doesn't get that hot - I can hold mine comfortably when driving. When stopped with engine running it does warm up some. It's the exhaust pipe that is lethally hot and the cause of many scalded lower legs - that is the bit that needs covering if you are worried about small kids etc - which I am. My exhaust is fortunately on the driver's side but I still worry walking away from it when it's hot after parking.