Bob Tucker

They look easy to fit. Ive just had to bodge mine again after one broke in France. I'll get a set of these next time they go. Have a Merry Christmas one & all.

These are triangulated & fit to the pinch bolt and the bottom ball joint, so more rigid than most. These are for Sierra hubs, but they also do them for Cortina hubs in case thats what you have. https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=11857

Are they ALL yours Peter????

Apologies if this has been posted sometime in the past, but I found this very useful for trying to decide a new colour scheme http://westfield-world.com/flash_changer.html

You should find something suitable here..... https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/filterSearch?adv=true&cid=0&mid=0&vid=0&q=wiper arms&sid=true&isc=true

From personal experience DONT GO ANYWHERE NEAR SPECIALISED ENGINES Also check Dave Andrews site for another unbiased opinion. & Google "specialised engines reviews" If you dont mind a trip to "the Dark Side!" I can thoroughly recommend Dartford Rebore.....small family run business. http://www.dartfordreboreenginecentre.co.uk/

Make sure there is free play on the MC operating rod, when the brake pedal is released. Make sure the piston in the right hand caliper is free. If its not working 100% it would feel like the LHS is more sensitive

John Hetherington had a few problems at IVA that nobody else seems to have encountered. He had a picky tester as you can see from his IVA write up. Heres a link to his build log http://johnskitcar.tonyhetherington.com/?page_id=138

Dont even remember 18.....

Red is the worst colour ever. It fades really badly, so even if you find out what it was originally, it wont look the same as new paint. I had red & it had turned orange after 3 years, even being garaged all the time. Eventually I sprayed the nose & all 4 wings in Ferrari Testarosso red which was the nearest I could get. That still looks good after 7 years. Your idea of paint matching sounds like the best bet. Try a specialist automotive paint supplier, they will mix up a colour & fill a spray can for you.

Very nice. Which picture is "before" & which one is "after"?

The petrol gets sucked into the cylinders. If theres a spark at the right time the engine WILL fire. It didnt, so its not a fuel problem. Recheck the timing as per richy's instructions.

As you have a carb you wont have a crank sensor. Cross that one off. What happened when you poured petrol directly into the carb?

Thanks for that Rich.... Ive seen a few trailers recently & it looks an amazing piece of work. I was planning to go see it at my local cinema this evening.....but I was worried that I would get upset in public....now I can get as upset as I like in private. & I will.

On a really cold day remove the gear lever gaiter For a lovely whoosh of hot air.

Nothing new under the sun! Here's one Paul made earlier http://paul94-gbs-zero-build.blogspot.com/2014/05/accelerator-pedal-stops.html

Does this help? https://richards-gbs-zero.blogspot.com/2012/09/accelerator-pedal-cable.html

Lovely & sunny here!

Ive also taken a look at a blow up of your picture. It is a bit heath robinson, but I cant see anything wrong with the design, from that angle anyway. The weakest part of the cable will be where the screw tightens up on it in the clevis. Any extra pressure (see above suggestion) will break it at that point. I think the threaded adjuster may be a red herring. I'll PM my phone number, feel free to give me a call....its easier to describe than type!.

Niel, Im assuming you'll come up with a working solution, but also make sure you have a throttle pedal stop that prevents the pedal moving any more once the throttle is wide open. Its easy to break a cable if the pedal can continue to move once the TB is fully open, & the old right foot is pressing on!

Pour half an eggcup (or the metric equivalent!) full of petrol into the carb mouth, then try starting it. If its a fuelling problem, it should fire & splutter then run for a short while. If no response then almost certainly its electrical.

Brake cables from WILKO or Halfords as Bob says. I get nothing from your link Neil, so I cant comment on it. The threaded connector you want to remove has a recess that the outer cable fits into...it keeps the outer cable in a straight line. if you remove it there is nothing to keep the ouuter at right angles to the firewall.

Keep the adjuster, but wind it all the way back into the firewall and adjust the inner cable at the pedal end. Nigel's quadrant idea is the best but may be difficult to fabricate. Work on decreasing the angle so the cable goes directly into the adjuster tube. Assuming thats where it broke, grease it well & try to fit a rubber concertina tube over it to keep grease in & dirt out. IIRC a lot of bike brake adjusters have them fitted. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-Compe-V-Brake-Long-Rubber-Boot-Cable-Cover-Gaiter-2-Pack/191998244199?hash=item2cb3fcb567:g:HDUAAOSwPCVYBBCK:rk:10:pf:0 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorcycle-Rubber-Gaiter-Universal-Sleeve/dp/B0187PDY16

http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=17295 Nothing new under the Rhocar sun, is there...!