Bob Tucker

Shame you didnt pop up earlier......I have been in Seaton all the past week, but going home today!

At IVA the car does not have an identity (reg. no.) so better not be carrying a number plate!

Have fun tomorrow. Sorry I cant get along, as...... 1. Important birthday (& engagement day!) for daughter no. 2 & 2. We are in Cornwall dog sitting.

Welcome! I'm on holiday at the moment so I cant measure mine. But the 2B is probably the widest 7 car there is. I have standard Vauxhall SRI seats which were an option to buy at the time I collected my car. I reckon any sports type aftermarket seat will fit, but hopefully someone will be able to give you an exact measurement soon

ANPR on the Dartford crossing registers my small number plate with no trouble at all.

no, no, no, no, no, yes.....

I'd like to see answers to those questions too, Richard. I take my privacy seriously, mostly because I have an ex-son-in-law who I want to keep at (a long) arms length. This is a clear breach of DP law. I did not sign up to have my personal details available to the general public. If Alan could access, copy & distribute this data, what else has been disclosed?

Does it have a servo? If so, check the pipe from the manifold to the servo.

If the lever that comes from inside the bellhousing doesnt project outside the bellhousing could the lever have come off the pivot bolt inside the bellhousing? Or the pivot bolt has fallen out/broken?

You'll have to look in the relevant Haynes manual for the donor car. Thats where the fun starts! Parts from various cars were used at different times. TBH If you are prepared to tackle this type of maintenance, you should be able to judge from experience how tight to go.

Short answer is.....not necessarily. Even if you get the linkage with the carb & manifold, the cable end may be different. But anything is do-able.

If it comes with a manifold, that should be a straight swap, but as Peter says, the smaller carbs have a smaller base & a corresponding smaller fixing to the manilfold.

The only perfect doughnuts come from Crispy Creme...

My grandson Harry & I have just got home, sunburned, tired & grinning after a lovely day spent with Bob's new toy, and co-incidentally with Bob, Sylvia, their daughter Helen, partner Justin, & son Daniel. It was a grand day out, with a picnic after steaming up river to a lock, a gentle steam back to dock with the other steam boats, and a careful, deliberate, long, slow turn to point back upstream to re-enter the mooring lake through the floating gate. And honestly, the chain on the gate was ready to break at any time, it was really rusted through...... https://www.dropbox.com/s/uky8n3fxccaisyj/CIMG0361.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/djkhsfcl851m3af/CIMG0354.JPG?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/aganzp9669xj9cm/CIMG0360.JPG?dl=0 Bob T.

Did he also fit an unleaded insert in the flller pipe?

Matt is right. A water pump should have zero play. Get a well known brand to replace it. It could be that the engine had been standing for years & the seal/bearing had dried out. But on the bright side, a cheap, easy fix!!!

Unfortunately I have had lots of practice. Single handed it takes me about 4 hours. (&3 days to recover!)

Sorry guys, I now cant make this either. I took my grandson for a trackday on Monday for his 21st birthday. As expected, he finished off my Toyo 888s, he used a full tank of fuel, so much so that we ran out just past Druids & had to be towed back, but unexpectedly, the clutch is now showing signs of distress. To be safe, before I go to France in early July, I will lay it up, remove the engine & box & take the clutch to Helix to have it relined. Regardless, the grin on his face was worth it! I will post a link to the track photographers site, and to youtube where I will be posting the GoPro footage.

Dont use stainless steel for any steering component.....it can fracture too easily. Stick to mild steel, like production cars use.

No...the nearer to TDC the strobe flashes, the more retarded the ignition. The 12-14 degrees will usually suit a tuned engine, but with a standard dizzy, you end up being too advanced at higher revs. I'd back iit off to 10 degrees for safety & sacrifice a steady tickover for being safe at high revs.

Spookier & spookier.... When I was looking for the rattle I spotted that the alternator adjustment bracket was broken, & took it off, welded it & refitted it. I was really pi**ed when the rattle was still there after that

I have always loved the look of the Sabre. I think the maker is now defunct?

Could still be the waterpump. I had one go bad on the redtop, the rattle was only intermittent, but when I took it off it was completely sh***ed. I dont know if your pump is cambelt driven or fan belt. If its the fanbelt, just do as Richy suggests & remove the belt, run the engine BRIEEFLY to see if its gone.

Richy I agree about the oil. The additive was just a cheap, easy way of diagnosing the problem, without any dismantling. Although the oil in there has done less than 3k miles & is still golden see-through on the dipstick, I will still change it today.

I used this from ECP using their discount code. On the shelf, the price is IIRC £9.99 but IIRC I paid £8.30 https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/car-additives/oil-system-additives/?555770590&0&cc5_168 It now comes in a can......be warned it smells like the worst un-neutered male cat pee when you first open the can. Do it in the open, & ditch the can a long way from the house. It doesnt smell in the engine thank god.