Bob Tucker

https://www.yell.com/biz/dave-the-trimmer-classic-and-custom-vehicle-upholstery-ltd-camberley-7037779/ https://weber-carbs.co.uk/shop/product/air-filter-weber-dgav-dgv-weber-32-36-38-dgv-dgav-dgev-dgas-dgms-dges-carburettor-air-filter/ The filter is for a DGV Weber, which was fitted to a lot of 2l Sierras. But they also had different Webers. Best to confirm what yours is before ordering, also the height of the existing filter.

+1 for woolies.

well, on the bright side, you've had plenty of practice....the next one will be a doddle.

"a strict standard and a high degree of uniqueness." There is. It must be 17 characters, random numbers and letters, no special characters. All manufacturers issue their own, GBS could have issued you with anything that fits that rule. Avoid DVLA bureaucracy at all costs, esp. snail mail. Many of us have chosen our own VINs that mean something to us. Mine includes initials, postcode, and the RHE invoice number. Not much chance of anyone duplicating that, but the DVLA check it for uniqueness when you submit it anyway.

You can check the camber easily enough, if a bit inaccurate. Get 2 13mm (ish) nuts, tiewrap them to a long spirit level. Park the car on flat level ground, slide the nuts up and down so they touch the top and bottom of the rim. The bubble will tell you if the wheel is canted in or out at the top. Ive adjusted mine to about 1/4 bubble in at the top. & it does pretty well on trackdays and no adverse tyre wear.

My switch (85 Sierra) keeps everything powered on while the starter operates. If the headlights are on they do dim a bit while the starter operates.

If you can measure the bearing, SKF or anyone selling their products, can supply just about any bearing ever made. You need inner diameter, outer diameter and thickness. You may even see a reference number on the bearing itself.

Being an electric luddite, I just cut into the wire going between the ignition switch and the starter solenoid. I then put a PUSH ONCE bus button centre dash and connected the wire to either side of it. To start the engine I surreptitiously turn the key against the spring, then push the big red button, or let the grandkids do it. Its foolproof as pushing the red button without the key being turned does nothing. Luddite story no. 2 I fitted a new dash with all LED warning lights. I couldnt understand why the alternator light wouldnt go right off, just glimmer and flicker. Eventually a friend explained in kiddy language that it needed more of a load to kick start it. So I cut the wire (sound familiar?) and fitted a small red bulb in a holder, that is hidden behind the dash, giving a nice red footwell glow when I turn on the ignition. KISS

That sounds like you fitted it all up correctly, but it sounds like you need a larger diameter clutch quadrant. The clutch is designed to work with a small amount of friction at rest but not much. Then you need substantial throw to disengage it enough for smooth silent gear changes. Search this site...there's load of info on bigger quadrants or Hoody style free fixes.

The clutch friction plate has a "flat" side and a "convex" side. I dont think it would even fit if you tried the wrong way round. The clutch cover can be put back in any position unless you had the whole assembly balanced. Very unlikely, generally only done for full race engines. When does it squeak, as you depress the pedal, while you hold the pedal down, as you release it, all the time? Check the cable isnt rubbing somewhere at either end. Kit cars are fun, innit?

Have you looked at the servo from a Sierra? I'd be surprised if its massively different to the cortina. My servo and master cylinder look a lot like your setup. Ford are pretty lazy at redesigning stuff, often re-using bits from a previous model. I understand there may not be many around, but it might be a simpler fix.

As Nelmo says, the Zeros come in at around 620kg. A 2B derivative is a bit more lardy, around 720 - 770. Im sorry I dont know about the Exmo, but there are public weighbridges dotted around if you really want to find out.

The SVA uses design (max) weights, not actual weight.

Inconvenient, but a really cheap fix! It sounded like a real heavy knock that pointed to the crankshaft somewhere.....I never imagined a loose flywheel. But as you say lesson learned! Not just you but everyone else too. Thanks for posting the fault.

Removing the engine is a real pain, but the builder sounds like a decent chap. Good luck, and keep us informed.

They are the same car. The Plus simply had a few extras added to the base car when it was sold by RHE. https://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm

Ive re read all the posts, and listened to the video over & over. You had ignition problems previously. So pre-ignition (pinking) could be what the sound is. I hope so. Please at least get the oil warning light going. Thats your last line of defence. An oil pressure gauge is a very good diagnostic tool. I'm pleased that your engine builder is taking such an interest....thats rare nowadays. Good luck with it. PS I ran many 109e engines in Anglias early 70s, that I ran in a hot rod series. I did pretty well, but I had many big end failures with the 3 bearing crank. They usually sounded like Phil Collins hammering gently but rhythmically on an anvil. Eventually I found a way to disguise the 113e 5 bearing to look like a 109e, which the rules dictated. It didnt give any more power, just much better reliability, so not really cheating...not really!

if the noise disappears when you remove the fan belt, its either the alternator or the waterpump. They would give a whirring noise if the bearings have gone, not the deep knock you have.

Well, thats a good start with the engine builder. Down here they'd swear blind it was fine when it left them & you bug***ed it yourself somehow.

I hope I'm wrong, but that sounds like big ends to me. Especially as it is worse at startup, before oil pressure builds up. then gradually fades, but reappears when you rev it slightly. Beg borrow or steal an oil pressure gauge before you run it any more. Send a copy of the video to West Coast motors too for their opinion.

A good way to identify where any noise is coming from is to use a mechanics stethoscope. Or a big screwdriver. Is it rhythmic? Is it in time with engine revs, or at half that rate (which points to a cam problem). How's the oil pressure? Try & post up a video of it running.

Sorry, but I'm not clear what you want to do with the suspension or why, so heres a very basic 101 course on suspension. If you have double wishbones, you probably have coilover struts. There are 2 collars on the threaded part. moving these up and down will change the ride height. It wont alter the suspension stiffness. If you do have coilovers, there will be an adjuster on the shock absorber. Altering that will affect suspension stiffness. It wont affect height. Gaz shocks are a good all rounder. Have a look at their website under universal coilovers. https://gazcoilovers.com/gaz-universal-coilover---175-inch-bodies-12mm-rods-bonded-bushes-1903-p.asp This is a Gaz coilover damper that alters rebound and compression damping adjustment from a single control knob at the side of the damper. The damper has a threaded body and height adjustable spring seat fitted for easy ride height adjustment. The gold knob is the shocker (stiffness) adjuster. You can just make out the locking collars at the bottom of the springs. Try & post some pics, and explain what the problem is so we can help more.

Measure from the bottom of the side panel, right in front of the rear wing, to the floor. 61/2 to 7 at the rear. You do need to adjust the location of the bolt hole (s) 6 at the front in line with the hub. BUT more importantly make sure you have generous clearance under the sump. You cant adjust the spring tension, thats built in when the spring is forged. You can only adjust the height. What front suspension do you have?

Let us know where you are. RHOCAR members (and us other hangers on!) are spread all over the country. Most if not all of us would be happy to show and talk about our cars ad nauseum. And any excuse (like giving you a test passenger ride) for a jaunt out will usually be grabbed both hands. You may need to join to get a list of other club members, but it would probably be money well spent. ,

I'd suggest a few phone calls to various insurance companies who specialise in insuring kits and classics. I think most of them would still consider a rebodied car to have the original identity for insurance purposes. My take on it is that they charge less for self built cars as they know you have time, effort, money, blood, sweat , and tears invested in it. You will want to take more care of it than any production car. Your age will have a big bearing on whats viable/insurable, so best to get that out of the way first. Probably not what youre looking for but there a few kits based on the humble CV2 which does have a separate chassis, and would almost certainly be insurable for you. That would provide a challenge for your building skills, and gain experience while you look longer term at a V12 rocket. Best of luck, come back with as many questions as you like, we're all car enthusiasts here, and happy to help anyone make a start.