Bob Tucker

You have to put a curve in the support to match the curve of the bonnet. Try straightening the old ones to get a better idea of whether the new ones are actually different.

To eliminate or identify a fuel problem, put a squirt of fuel into each carb mouth. If the spark is all ok it will start, but be a bit lumpy for a short while, like on full choke, then clear before stopping. If it wont start then the problem is ignition.......somewhere. Its a long process of elimination, just one thing at a time. Its hard to see from your photo, have you checked the plug leads are connected correctly?? They look like perhaps 2& 3 are swapped?

I just couldn't remember..... LOL been there..!!!

I dont know what section the IVA demands, but if as you say it has to be 19mm radius, doesnt it need to be 38mm diameter?

I have a Vauxhall redtop . They are notorious for sump leaks. I have tried many solutions, but I have reverted to using the standard cork gasket and Wynns black gasket sealer from Euro car parts, that has been 100% successful every time I have rebuilt the engine. https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/wynns black gasket

Wot Bob said....

There are no new problems.....

https://nw.rhocar.org/clutch pawls.htm

Post removed. Red quadrant on ebay Claimed to be 55mm, but photo shows different

I'd suggest looking at increasing the throw on the cable before pulling the engine. Its a common problem even with the pinto, but especially (for some reason) with the redtop. I had to try a number of quadrants and ended up with (I think) one from a Granada. Dont go by the colour, but by the diameter size, as aftermarket ones come in all colours. The quadrant itself is always the same size, but the groove comes in varying depths. You need one where the cable lies level with the top of it. MIne needs lifting a bit, ive fixed 2 cable ties, one on top of the other, into the groove before fitting the cable. Its all dismantled at the moment in the picture. Do a search on this site, the resourceful guys on here have come up with a number of solutions. If you do need a clutch, go direct to Helix for advice, they really know their stuff.

Glue coarse wet and dry on a cloth backing on it.

That's a shame.....someone made a much more professional job of the bracket than RH recommends....LOL

have a look at extending your steering column. The triangular shaft that fits inside the the upper part of the steering column can be slid out a little way It is a tight fit though. Certainly enough to clear the 18mm dash, which would be better than 9mm.

"I keep getting a difference of opinion on it. " Welcome to Robin Hood ownership!! Thats what makes them so interesting....they are all different. Get along to a meet up once we can do that, and you'll see just how many variations there are. There are quite a few very good build blogs on this site. Take the time to do a few searches, & see what others have done.

Take a close look at the picture of the chassis in the video. Its a very early one with parallel centre support bars. Yours is a later one with splayed support bars. Trust us! They are all different. Yours is a close approximation to mine. Once the dash and the bonnet are on you cant see the top chassis rail, or any gaps. Fit the bonnet as it stands. When you get to it, fit the dash with a rubber strip on top of it, right up to the bonnet. Fit a reinforcing bar under the back lip of the bonnet. Dont sweat it.....it will work.

Cant recommend anyone unfortunately, but another blinds company to avoid for exactly the same reason as yours is BLINDSDIRECT.

Dont forget that moving the dummy strut upwards will also increase any positive camber because its at an angle in the hub. My wishbone conversion has "ears" welded to the dummy struts. They fit inside the slit in the hub, and are drilled so the bolt goes through it as a positive lock in case the bolt comes loose.

Still cant post phone pics...theyre too big. Ill see if I can find a camera! I had to fit a reinforcing bar under the bonnet. I just used 1/8 x 1inch mild steel bar fixed with No more Nails. Still there after 20 years.

Just double checked mine as its stripped down to fit a recon Redtop. The dash protrudes exactly one inch above the dash chassis tube at the top and at the side its 1/2 inch at the top tapering down to zero at the cockpit side. I'll try to post pics.

thats correct. It allows the alligator bonnet to open. The dashboard fills most of the gap, and a rubber seal (from the Sierra) attaches to the top of the dash and fills the rest. HTH

depends on what else you have done to the engine, but a good start for an otherwise standard engine is a Kent FR32, or a Piper 285. But they will work better with twin carbs, and modified head.

I reckon you may struggle. Ask whoever you bought the car from, or try Wolfrace UK direct and send them that picture.

The timing from a standard cam pulley is not likely to be the best all round setting. My experience having vernier pulleys on a redtop is that once when the timing slipped on the inlet cam it became retarded. The engine was totally flat. It did'nt misfire, but it had lost lots of power. Once I had reset it, the engine became more cammy, lots more grunt. Its an interference engine so I didnt experiment any more. From the rolling road sessions I have had on several cars, the operators will always swing the cam pulley a little way in each direction, to find the best setting. Generally a little advanced from standard will get more top end power at the expense of some lower torque, and the pinto is a non interference engine, so its safe to play a bit.

Hi Peter, the E6 is a 5 speed type 9 box. It has modified gears and is uprated to handle higher HP & torque. I bought mine 8 years ago, so prices will have changed since then. Their current specs and prices are on the link I posted.

Injectors jammed open?