Bob Tucker

Ive re read all the posts, and listened to the video over & over. You had ignition problems previously. So pre-ignition (pinking) could be what the sound is. I hope so. Please at least get the oil warning light going. Thats your last line of defence. An oil pressure gauge is a very good diagnostic tool. I'm pleased that your engine builder is taking such an interest....thats rare nowadays. Good luck with it. PS I ran many 109e engines in Anglias early 70s, that I ran in a hot rod series. I did pretty well, but I had many big end failures with the 3 bearing crank. They usually sounded like Phil Collins hammering gently but rhythmically on an anvil. Eventually I found a way to disguise the 113e 5 bearing to look like a 109e, which the rules dictated. It didnt give any more power, just much better reliability, so not really cheating...not really!

if the noise disappears when you remove the fan belt, its either the alternator or the waterpump. They would give a whirring noise if the bearings have gone, not the deep knock you have.

Well, thats a good start with the engine builder. Down here they'd swear blind it was fine when it left them & you bug***ed it yourself somehow.

I hope I'm wrong, but that sounds like big ends to me. Especially as it is worse at startup, before oil pressure builds up. then gradually fades, but reappears when you rev it slightly. Beg borrow or steal an oil pressure gauge before you run it any more. Send a copy of the video to West Coast motors too for their opinion.

A good way to identify where any noise is coming from is to use a mechanics stethoscope. Or a big screwdriver. Is it rhythmic? Is it in time with engine revs, or at half that rate (which points to a cam problem). How's the oil pressure? Try & post up a video of it running.

Sorry, but I'm not clear what you want to do with the suspension or why, so heres a very basic 101 course on suspension. If you have double wishbones, you probably have coilover struts. There are 2 collars on the threaded part. moving these up and down will change the ride height. It wont alter the suspension stiffness. If you do have coilovers, there will be an adjuster on the shock absorber. Altering that will affect suspension stiffness. It wont affect height. Gaz shocks are a good all rounder. Have a look at their website under universal coilovers. https://gazcoilovers.com/gaz-universal-coilover---175-inch-bodies-12mm-rods-bonded-bushes-1903-p.asp This is a Gaz coilover damper that alters rebound and compression damping adjustment from a single control knob at the side of the damper. The damper has a threaded body and height adjustable spring seat fitted for easy ride height adjustment. The gold knob is the shocker (stiffness) adjuster. You can just make out the locking collars at the bottom of the springs. Try & post some pics, and explain what the problem is so we can help more.

Measure from the bottom of the side panel, right in front of the rear wing, to the floor. 61/2 to 7 at the rear. You do need to adjust the location of the bolt hole (s) 6 at the front in line with the hub. BUT more importantly make sure you have generous clearance under the sump. You cant adjust the spring tension, thats built in when the spring is forged. You can only adjust the height. What front suspension do you have?

Let us know where you are. RHOCAR members (and us other hangers on!) are spread all over the country. Most if not all of us would be happy to show and talk about our cars ad nauseum. And any excuse (like giving you a test passenger ride) for a jaunt out will usually be grabbed both hands. You may need to join to get a list of other club members, but it would probably be money well spent. ,

I'd suggest a few phone calls to various insurance companies who specialise in insuring kits and classics. I think most of them would still consider a rebodied car to have the original identity for insurance purposes. My take on it is that they charge less for self built cars as they know you have time, effort, money, blood, sweat , and tears invested in it. You will want to take more care of it than any production car. Your age will have a big bearing on whats viable/insurable, so best to get that out of the way first. Probably not what youre looking for but there a few kits based on the humble CV2 which does have a separate chassis, and would almost certainly be insurable for you. That would provide a challenge for your building skills, and gain experience while you look longer term at a V12 rocket. Best of luck, come back with as many questions as you like, we're all car enthusiasts here, and happy to help anyone make a start.

Just been scrutinising some images of the Sierra mechanism (using 2 pairs of glasses...4x !) There maybe no need to modify the arms. Moving the pivot where the motorised arm joins the slave arm nearer to the wiper spindle may do the trick, just one hole to drill. I just wish I could draw pics like Longboarder.

I dont know the Sierra wiper system. Is the aim to increase the sweep of the wiper blades? Can you shorten the slave operating arms that move the spindle at the outer ends? Or just drill extra holes nearer the wiper spindle, and mount the operating (ball?) joint there instead. That will have the same affect as lengthening the arrowed arm.

Also check engine mounts, gearbox mounts and prop shaft uj's. Maybe jack up one rear wheel, engine off, try rocking the wheel to see if anything moves or knocks through each gear including reverse.

Most Gaz shocks have a single adjustment knob that adjusts both the compression and rebound together. This type is perfectly good for road use. Double adjustable shocks are very expensive and usually only used for racing.

I have Gaz coilovers all round. I got them from various places, but I think Dave at Dampertech is the current recommended supplier. I cant give you coilover lengths or spring rates, I fitted them in 2007 & dont have the paperwork any more. Or the memory!!

I fitted a C20XE, but the block is identical. I got my bellhousing from Rally Design. Make sure you get the vertical one, not 7 degrees as fitted to original car. I made my own engine mount arms, and land rover flexible mounts. My sump came from SBD, but cheaper ones are available. Look at upgrading the gearbox, the ratios aren't best suited to a 16v engine, 1st is far too low, plus the torque from the turbo engine is pushing it to its limit. It's all worth it!

Most likely the unknown tyres are at least a part of the problem. You need a tyre made of a soft compound. Most tyres are designed for a weighty production car. I use Michelin Pilot 4s. Ive never tried anything else, but Im sure others will have other suggestions. Use the search function to find previous posts about tyres For track (& dry roads) I use Toyo 888s, which have astonishing grip once warm. But they dont last long, and they are awful if its wet or cold. Pressures are fine. I'm sorry, but the Zimmerides are "not very good"! Proper adjustable coilovers are the way forward. You can use the adjustment to trim out over and under steer. Dont have the rear of the car too low. That gives -ve camber which affects handling. Try to get the wheels vertical. Have you got wishbones or sliding pillar on the front?

What tyres, what pressures, what front and rear suspension setup?

When I looked REALLY carefully at the RHE receipt, I discovered it printed at the top, although I hadnt noticed it previously. As stated previously, it has 17 characters, assorted numbers and letters, mine includes my postcode (which I had given to RHE when I ordered the kit) and the RHE invoice number together with random other characters, which makes it unique.

Ive looked at the Aray advert above.....they have 14" tyres.....the Arays Ive seen in the past have been 15". Wheels and tyres are not simple!!!

What size are your current wheels and tyres?

The Turbo wheels were part of the early 2B (2000 ish ) batches released. Be aware they are 14"

No problem Kevin. If you get stuck, that engine came from a 1990 Astra GTE Hatchback, 2.0 dohc. ECP let you put in those details to select the right parts

I use BOSCH P3370 from euro car parts. Im sure you can find equivalents in other makes on the net.

There were 2 main types of wheel "Turbo" on the centre cap, and ARAY. Which ones are you after?

I'll be there but just for one day.