Bob Tucker

Most likely the unknown tyres are at least a part of the problem. You need a tyre made of a soft compound. Most tyres are designed for a weighty production car. I use Michelin Pilot 4s. Ive never tried anything else, but Im sure others will have other suggestions. Use the search function to find previous posts about tyres For track (& dry roads) I use Toyo 888s, which have astonishing grip once warm. But they dont last long, and they are awful if its wet or cold. Pressures are fine. I'm sorry, but the Zimmerides are "not very good"! Proper adjustable coilovers are the way forward. You can use the adjustment to trim out over and under steer. Dont have the rear of the car too low. That gives -ve camber which affects handling. Try to get the wheels vertical. Have you got wishbones or sliding pillar on the front?

What tyres, what pressures, what front and rear suspension setup?

When I looked REALLY carefully at the RHE receipt, I discovered it printed at the top, although I hadnt noticed it previously. As stated previously, it has 17 characters, assorted numbers and letters, mine includes my postcode (which I had given to RHE when I ordered the kit) and the RHE invoice number together with random other characters, which makes it unique.

Ive looked at the Aray advert above.....they have 14" tyres.....the Arays Ive seen in the past have been 15". Wheels and tyres are not simple!!!

What size are your current wheels and tyres?

The Turbo wheels were part of the early 2B (2000 ish ) batches released. Be aware they are 14"

No problem Kevin. If you get stuck, that engine came from a 1990 Astra GTE Hatchback, 2.0 dohc. ECP let you put in those details to select the right parts

I use BOSCH P3370 from euro car parts. Im sure you can find equivalents in other makes on the net.

There were 2 main types of wheel "Turbo" on the centre cap, and ARAY. Which ones are you after?

I'll be there but just for one day.

I'm planning to be there, hopefully in the hood.

Disconnect the coil ht lead to check ignition timing isnt stopping it turning

It was precipitating cats and dogs for my Iva so I used a sheet of thick plastic and duct tape to make a snug tonneau cover that just gave room for me to get in. The examiner creased up when he saw it but he did appreciate the dry seat. Lasted 40 miles at about 50 no problem.

Polyfacto made the original RH hoods...may be worth a call

I've used Gillingham for my own and several other cars. They have been very thorough but understanding. They have failed some but were very clear about what they want to see to be able to pass it on the retest. They were also helpful on the phone before submitting the car.

You can cut it off but only as far back as the cross bar of the chassis. It needs to remain welded to that cross tube as it supports the diff.

Check that the horn switch can handle the high load of a horn without a relay.

what engine is fitted? is it carb or EFI as the fuel pump needs to be high pressure if efi plus a swirl pot and a 2nd low pressure pump. if its fitted with a carb the mechanical pump fitted to the engine block works just fine (& simpler). most electric pumps work best fitted near the tank as they push better than suck.

Could a fuel pipe have dried out, cracked and started leaking? If its EFI running at high pressure it may only be leaking when you are driving and not noticable when its parked. Also check the injector O rings.

You may find that the LED charge light wont go out when the engine starts. An LED doesnt put enough load to "excite" the alternator circuit. My heath robinson fix was to insert a small socket and bulb in the circuit but hidden under the dash. Apologies in advance to any real leccies out there, who are either laughing their socks off, or grinding their teeth.

https://www.speeding.co.uk/7-inch-pair-sealed-beam-headlights-halogen-conversion-848-p.asp

Well done....Just in time for the better weather

Ian is right. I bought the land rover ones for £7.50 each a few years back. they work perfectly, just need the mount modifying as they have a central bolt top and bottom.

You have to put a curve in the support to match the curve of the bonnet. Try straightening the old ones to get a better idea of whether the new ones are actually different.

To eliminate or identify a fuel problem, put a squirt of fuel into each carb mouth. If the spark is all ok it will start, but be a bit lumpy for a short while, like on full choke, then clear before stopping. If it wont start then the problem is ignition.......somewhere. Its a long process of elimination, just one thing at a time. Its hard to see from your photo, have you checked the plug leads are connected correctly?? They look like perhaps 2& 3 are swapped?