agent_zed

apart from the gearbox having to fit in the gap you also have to make sure the gearstick comes out in the correct place as you don't want to end up with it hitting the dash board etc. I can't quite remember but someone on here will know but i think the MT75 gearbox has a remote shifter in which case it could be modded to adjust the position if necessary. The mt75 is also a stronger box and you can probably sell the type 9 for more than the cost of a mt75. Although they are bigger so check space to fit. I also have a feeling a commonly used engine mount is the landrover mounts which seem cheap enough.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-ENGINE-MOUNTING-RUBBERS-Set-of-2-ANR1808-/270715903091?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275 can't see why they wouldnt work. As above though just a case of mocking it all up. measure measure and measure again. Alternatively if you are making a new prop anyway you could look at getting an mx5 engine and gearbox as they should fit and possibly less hassle/cheaper than joining the blacktop to type nine.

I used standard universal ones something like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-CAR-CARPET-MAT-4-PCE-BLACK-GREEN-TRIM-/252921718248?hash=item3ae34f25e8:g:DVsAAOSwc-tY1PTDI think i bought them from tkmaxx but it was a while ago. They fit surprisingly well. The drivers side isn't quite long enough but i put the small rear mat down against the seat and the front mat lipping onto it and it's fine and doesn't move around or anything. Or if you really wanted them to fit pefectly you could buy some cord carpet and cut it to size and get the edge bound. Either finding a carpet company who will do the edge binding or i just found a few sites online where you buy an add your own glue on rope edge which looked relatively easy to do. hth

eek well i guess only time will tell now.... fingers crossed

ah yes that makes sense now as i presume the plastic cogs are slightly larger or smaller diameter and push in more or less depending on their relative sizes to change the ratio.

are the heads different? Sierra ones are either a star socket (old type) or new T55 torx stretch bolts. Does it mention something like that in the rover manual? Or a shank length etc the MSPS will be stretch bolts by the sound of it as you say they can't be re-used. I reckon you would prob get away with torque-ing to the higher number on either bolt but better to know for sure as snapping a head bolt won't be fun to fix.

yeah i am thinking the same. I can't believe that just changing the number of teeth would help. If you had more teeth they would be smaller and the drive cog wouldn't mesh or less teeth and the drive cog would clunk from too much backlash. I would guess that the gearbox is fitted with a specific drive cog for the application and a matching plastic cog of a specific size. I do remember though that the one on my dads transit (mt75/pinto) was a blue drive cog, not that that really helps as such. I can't do the maths but if it's a left hand drive box would it be set up for Km/hr? Would a Km converter work the correct way or make it worse? http://www.brooksbarn.co.uk/Mechanical-speedo-converter-kph-to-mph_AQQH4.aspx Alternatively fit really big wheels/tyres to get the correct ratio

yep oil change and filter is next job to do. I'm not actually sure where the oil went as i was relatively confident it had some and i haven't had any major leaks. I don't seem to be burning much from what i can see. I'll just have to be a bit more careful in future. Taping the light works to save fuel and increase fitness as well, as it doesn't take long before the engine stops and you have to walk home

cool. thanks guys that's reassuring. I'll be driving it this morning so fingers crossed. Although i assume any problems will now be a slow process until a dramatic fail. I would be disappointed if it failed as it's only 26 years old with 130k

well i am ashamed to admit that i failed to check the oil and it had got so low that on the commute today the oil pressure light came on a couple of times after some sharp corners. I wasn't driving hard, and was keeping the revs down as i'd only just changed the head gasket due to a bent valve. The light came on a few times but only for a second or so. It's on an old pinto. Am i likely to have got away with it? or are the chances not in my favour?

steel frame really doesn't weigh much and easy to make if you have a welder. The sewing is the tricky bit. Another alternative would be to combine the steel frame with an ally skin (obviously not the window bit ) would be relatively easy to bend 0.7mm ally skin around the frame instead of sewing. You could even glue vinyl on the outside for the traditional look. As said there is an advantage to the doors being longer, but the flip side of them being 'standard' is that you can look around the back edge of the door which gives a clear view rather than the slightly distorted view through the plastic window.

are your current light sealed beam units? if so just change the lens to one of the converter ones that take a h4 bulb. I find mine are perfectly bright enough hth

I built my own doors. I used 15mm x 3mm steel for the main frame and an extra strip welded together for the hinge area so it is 30mm for that part. I started at the windscreen end and shaped/bent the steel to match the curve of the car. I also twisted it to follow the shape correctly. This is something that can't be done with the RH doors as you would damage the material. I used a big pair of stilsons and a bench vice. My door fits perfect against the side of my scuttle and doesn't lift at all. I made the standard shape ones but if i did it again i would consider making the door go further back at the top rather than slope down. The donkervoort has a longer door http://donkiespeed.nl/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/donkervoort-d8-audi-e-gas-driekwrt-voor-1140x760.jpg I think the material was from woolies and is hooding material. The clear part i bought from a tent/caravan company and seems to be holding up after a few years. I left an extra flap at the front which tucks behind the windscreen support so that water can't be blown in. I sewed mine on my trusty old hand cranked singer machine which will go through most things i've thrown at it. You might find a decent modern machine will work but i don't know. It is quite tricky to sew it on to the frame so you will need an extra hand to hold the frame and move with you. I didn't realise that the doors would be forced inwards so i have material fixed over the centre bar to stop it being pulled outward. i don't know if other doors do this or not. Because you can't sew across the centre with the frame in place i sewed a strip across with one edge loose then glued the frame and wrapped the flap around. Then i sewed the rest around the perimeter. If that makes any sense. I also bought some 1inch webbing and some clips (this type https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1016/8373/products/small-clip1_786eef1f-4c2d-49ae-90ce-9fd1f0f11abd_1024x1024.png?v=1497402371)for closing the doors, which so far work perfectly. I just have one each side clipping to some webbing secured to the car. hth

i modified he original sierra setup but it was a bit of work as i had to change the pivot point of the one arm to adjust the sweep. The mini system seems a simpler way to go. The other thing i did which you may want to do is make short wiper blades. I used the new single piece type wiper and cut them down to 6inches. They work pretty well. I used ones for the front windscreen but i have seen on modern cars that they do a smaller version for the rear windscreen which may be even better as the springing won't be as strong. I used my sierra wiper arms cut down and welded the U shape on so i can use normal fittings rather than having to screw it on etc. That way i can carry a spare that i can easily swap if needed. I've had to commute for the past month in my 2b as my normal car is out of action. So my wipers have come into use quite a few times. They are well worth it and as said above a must have safety item. You are in a tiny little car without ABS, traction control, DSC, air bags and sip so anything you can do to stay safe is worth doing. Just be add another thing into the mix is your windscreen laminated? i suspect not as mine isn't it's just toughened. If it breaks you will get showered in glass although it shouldn't be sharp. I ALWAYS wear sunglasses or clear safety specs but i am going to put some of the antishatter plastic film on the inside to hold it together in an accident. Its only about £5-10 hth

hmm some food for thought. It doesnt hit that often but for example the other day there was a broken spring or something on the road that was a few inches high and it caught that and banged it around under the car. I tend to be on smaller roads so there is often quite a curve on the road so its even closer. will have to give it some thought as i still want to be able to remove the sump, which is currently just possible lifting the engine a few inches. thanks

Hi, i'm sure this has probably been answered on here (cant remember if i asked it many years ago) somewhere but the search returned nothing... anyhow i was wondering how easy it will be to adjust the plough bar on my 2b. It sits very low and is significantly lower than my sump (shortened) and gearbox so i can't see the point of it being so low. What is the best way to adjust it. Cut and weld? or i had a feeling someone on here said they just jacked up the car on it and it bent upwards. Is this a bad idea as welds could be stressed? Perhaps Make it removable? any advice appreciated thanks

ah ok cool. That's really helpful. Will put that on the shopping list. I just read on wiki ... EP additives which contain phosphorus/sulfur compounds are corrosive to yellow metals such as the copper and/or brass used in bushings and synchronizers; the GL-1 class of gear oils does not contain any EP additives and thus finds use in applications which contain parts made of yellow metals. Which i assume is why you can't use EP in the gearbox but you can use it in the diff, as i am assuming the diff doesn't contain any copper/brass parts. thanks

I would also guess that having a straight through exhaust would help a bit too, but i could be wrong as there are various other factors such as back pressure to take into consideration and it all starts to get a bit technical especially when you start taking into account 4-1 or 4-2-1 manifolds and primary tube lengths and the like. Depends on budget as i am sure Snapperpaul will tell you it ain't cheap once you start pushing the limits. At the end of the day though i have a 1.6 pinto without much done to it, only a 2ltr cam, 4-1 tubular manifold to straight through exhaust and that still gives me a huge smile and moves pretty well. I was stuck behind a few slow cars today on the way home along the edge of the river wye and it just didn't matter. Sun was creeping out and it was awesome to hear the burble of the engine and get to enjoy the scenery, it's not always about screaming 0-60 times

Hi, so book says i need SAE90 hypoid gear oil for my diff. Eurocarparts does an EP90 http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/car-tranmission-oils/manual-transmission-fluids/?522776132&&cc5_868which does specify ' best used for hypoid differential ' and a GL5 rating. Is this what i need? is it just a newer spec that exceed SAE90? any advice appreciated

depending on how old the pinto is you might benefit from fitting electronic ignition. The old ones would be points. Mine is a later 1991 and had electronic as standard but you can buy an aftermarket setup. Having a fully mappable system would be the best but that costs to have it setup on a RR. I'd look for an old independent garage with an old chap still working there as they will no doubt have worked on these in the past. These are old simple engines and a spanner or two will do most jobs. If the car is ~750kg and 105bhp that is still 140bhp/tonne. Enough to be spritely in a little car.

"...and as result you get a Q plate." or a New plate, or an Age related or a Dinner plate DVLA randomly applying rules since 1965. That isn't actually a standard 2b chassis so depending on how fussy and knowledgeable (who knows someone at dvla might know whats going on) the person is they might pick up on the front suspension, although unlikely i guess. Maybe you could 'find' a reciept from Robin hood in your paperwork Car is looking nice. I can't quite see from the pics but are the light holders sufficiently rounded? You also might find the front indicators are not far enough apart. Mine were ok like that for SVA but i know some people had problems and had to fit 'extenders'. Might be worth just checking the measurements if you haven't already. That's a nice looking rear end. Is that steel under there with the gaps filled or is it all glass fibred?

surely as others have said it is worth just taking the engine/box out and selling the rest as a rolling chassis ready for a new engine/box. Being already street legal must be a bonus (what is iva these days ..£500?). Surely you would get £1500 at least wouldn't you? selling the parts separately is unlikely to get near that (unless you have some serious kit in there - which you might have so apologies if you do). Be a shame for it to be binned if it's a good chassis (is it stainless?) just a thought

thanks. ive had a look but couldnt see an obvious one. gonna buy a plug from a scrappy i think.

They have replaced most of the street lights around where i live with new LED ones. Whilst i think this is good for using less energy i am finding they are taking a bit of getting used to. They are a very white light whereas the old ones were the typical orange light. I am finding that the light is now the same as car headlights so in the past i was able to see that a car was coming around a bend as the orange light was broken by the white car headlight. Now they are the same colour there is less of an indicator. I find it most difficult when out running at night as it constantly looks like there is a car coming up from behind. I'm sure at some point i'll get complacent and assume it is just the street lights and cross without properly checking and get run over by those silent killers, i mean an electric car. Killed by a renault twizy can you imagine (actually just found this pic and now i want one http://cdn1.autoexpress.co.uk/sites/autoexpressuk/files/renault-twizy-f1-action-2.jpg) May be just another of those first world problems.

So my car failed it's mot and i need to have a look at some fault codes. Easy enough you would think ...connect up a obd2 reader to the obd2 port and jobs a goodun. So i had a look where the obd2 port should be on a bmw 316ti (under the dash near the accelerator pedal) and there was the hole but no port??? I'd looked for it in the past and given up as i hadn't really needed it back then but now i do. So i just took the trim panel off to have a look and for the life of me couldn't see anything that resembled a obd2 port. Felt around the wiring and eventually found a bit tucked into the soundproofing on the panel. Looked like it was taped up but on closer inspection the wires were all bundled and cut ends showing. I assume some idiot in the past had removed the panel and yanked it to get it off and had broken all the wires off the port connector. Found this pic http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E46/98-ELEC-Brake_Light_Switch_Replacement/images_small/pic04.jpgon a guide to replacing a brake light switch and the colours match up. Perhaps the brake light switch had been replaced and thats when the cables were broken and the mechanic or whoever couldn't be bothered to fix the damage they had done. So now i have the problem as i currently don't have the port to connect it to Thinking about it as i type there is a chance it is bouncing around in there somewhere so might have a quick look in the light but failing that i'm going to have to go to the local scrappy and see if they will cut one off for me so i can solder the wires back on. Another job to add to the list

ha you gotta love DVLA. Some people have 3 years mot grace, others 1 year (i got 1 year) Some people can make up their vin number (i did), others can't Some people get a 'new' plate instead of an age related and by the sounds of it if you do a little bit of numberplate juggling you get left holding a 'new' (whatever year registered) plate.