agent_zed

I keep meaning to setup some cctv although i'm planning on the lowest cost route of an old webcam and a pc to run it. There are loads of programs out there that automatically start it recording etc and fire off emails when something moves in it's vision. For now i leave it pointing out of the front window so anyone who comes to the door snooping at least sees it and possibly thinks twice. We regularly have people turn up on some rehabilitation program (not sure if it's genuine or not) trying to sell sponges and the like. I like to give them the benefit of the doubt but who knows what they are thinking and a laminated 'ID' card isn't exactly reassuring. I still think the best deterant for the garage though is a trip wire connected to a smoke grenade... can't steal what you can't see

Well done. By the sounds of it you did the right thing and listened to the IVA tester and did the things they wanted you to do. When i was getting mine done there was an american pickup being tested that had some gas tank or something inside the petrol tank so was hidden from view and the chap was just arguing with the tester as he didnt want to take it apart. Not the best plan to my mind, i would think it would just make the tester more likely to pick up every tiny fault. 'PLEASE NOTE IVA REQUIRE FOG LIGHT TO WORK OFF BOTH HEAD LIGHT SETTINGS NOT JUST DIPPED.' If you think about it that's for good reason, if you are driving through patchy fog and flicking to main beam and back your fog light would be flashing on and off and be quite confusing for any cars following

I am certainly far from an authority on this so this is just my thinking along the lines of the above. You don't want too much and you don't want too little. If the gbs silencer is a straight through you'll have a perforated pipe to allow the soundwaves to be absorbed by the glassfibre wadding. my thinking is if you pack it too tightly you will create a wall against which the sound can't penetrate and it will be reflected back. Too little and and the sound will travel through the wadding and be reflected back off the inside of the can. The problem i am finding is that glassfibre eventually gets broken down and blown out. It's always going to be a problem as by leaving a gap (less hard packed wadding) for the sound you are allowing more gasses to penetrate. I guess you have to just assume repacking is part of the service schedule. I've heard some people use stainless pot scourers as they don't break down the same. I'm going to try this soon (on the long list of jobs).

cool thanks guys. Will have a look and try and work it out.

How much resin would i need to make grp rear arches? I've no point of reference so no idea if it's 0.5kg or 5kg etc And i guess how much matting it would take? I plan on using the rh grp outer edges and bonding onto them so it would effectively be replacing the metal part. any ideas? thanks

I think i am correct in saying that the coilovers you'll need for a 2b on the sierra subframe will be 16inch open/9inch closed. with between 300-400lb springs. Additionally if you don't have them already you'll need brackets that slot into the rollbar tube for the top of the coilovers and brackets that sit in the wishbone 'cup' where the sierra spring once sat. If you can weld they are easy enough to knock up otherwise i think gbs do them. I'd probably weld the bottom brackets into the cup once i was happy with positioning. Remember the swing arm is moving at an angle to the car so you really want the coilover eye (where the bolt goes through) in the same line as the movement so you aren't stressing anything as the suspension moves up and down. something like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GAZ-Coilover-Shock-16-Open-10-5-Closed-2-Diameter-12mm-Rod-Bonded-Bushes/123226088937?hash=item1cb0d8e5e9:g:skMAAOSwjUxbOkpH(you'll need springs as well though as they aren't included - also this is the first i found so i am not recommending these people as such just an example) hth

Thanks all. By chance i thought i'd check my local tool stores website and they stock the charnwood saws so i can go and have a look at them and see the quality. I wouldn't be surprised if they have a demo setup so i can actually see it running. I know they have a demo area so hopefully one ready to go. I'm drawn to the charnwood 10inch as it has a bigger motor than the sheppach for the same cutting depth and the fence locks both ends. I find on my dads table saw the fence is rubbish and only locks one end. If i want it accurate i have to mess about clamping the other end down with g-clamps so it doesn't move. Will see what it's like in person and go from there.

well if charnwood are to be believed they are made in britain whereas the aldi one according to a youtube video says on the box that you can get support from the sheppach website which is a german brand and likely made in the same factory. The aldi one is pretty much this one https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-hbs20-80mm-bandsaw-240v/96071although weirdly has a (perhaps cheaper?)bigger motor?! It does seem to be a tad confusing with so many re-badged things out there. A lot of the small saws do look the same. The Titan from screwfix looks similar but i think that is a different manufacturer https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb705bds-80mm-bandsaw-230-240v/5688p oh hang on ... from the charnwood site 'but most of our manufacturing has now been transferred to low cost centres in Asia, where we are able to produce competitively priced, high quality machinery as demanded by the British public.' So not so british after all. well that confuses the issue more.

Looking to buy a small bandsaw. Around the £200 and less kind of mark. Now i know there will be a few 'buy a big second hand one' but i don't really want the hassle of searching for a good one and having to go pick it up and then having to fix anything that i hadn't noticed was broken or needs replacing. So i have quite a choice I don't really want the the cheapest aldi jobber https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-350w-band-saw/p/083033218141800?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxL2EvamA3QIVl-J3Ch01xAboEAQYASABEgJemfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CKKBgMOpgN0CFVID0wodS_kG1Aat £80 which actually got some good reviews and apparently is made by sheppach anyway. but i think if i just wanted to cut the odd bit now and again would be ok. The screwfix titan one gets reasonable reviews but the belt is an odd size apparently. and i think it is more good for what it is/the price. So i'm looking at a bit more expensive ones and considering the sheppach basa 1.0 https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-basa-1-0-100mm-bandsaw-240v/77322?kpid=77322&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Tools&ds_kid=43700024225641298&ds_rl=1249478&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImKWqwK-A3QIVUOR3Ch1Aog3LEAAYASAAEgJ3e_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMqvucWvgN0CFTYC0wodPAICtg or the charnwood w711 http://www.ockenden-timber.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3077 Both have 300 watt motors, cast iron tables. The sheppach has a 2 year warranty and have triple bearings at the top. The charnwood has a fence that locks both ends. I'm not sure how good charnwood is, anybody use their stuff. It's british made (not sure if thats good or bad anymore). Or just over the £200 (£229) mark charnwood do a slightly bigger version https://www.charnwood.net/products/product/p10-woodworking-bandsaw-w715/category_pathway-152which has a 375w motor and i think triple bearing at the top. The video of the charnwood inspires confidence as they cut quite a thin veneer without too much problem. any thoughts?

I think the later 2bs and superspecs mounted the subframe differently. On my 2b the original mounts (big rubber mounts with a hole in the middle) were used to secure the subframe to the chassis onto flat metal plates on the chassis. A big bolt was put through the rubber mount and additional bolts put up through the metal behind the mount. The outer suspension arm bolt also picked up a mounting point. Others can hopefully confirm that on the later versions the big rubber part can be cut off as the subframe just mounts with the outer suspension arm bolts. It was always a bit of a bodge on the early 2bs as there was no need for the rubber part as the rear diff mounting was removed and the diff mounted solidly so there is no point having movement at the front. Some people removed the rubber part and welded up the hole. But by the sounds of it you won't even need to do that as you'll lose that entire part.

yeah mine is like that. I actually welded it to the sierra subframe for extra security.

As mentioned the drain channels get blocked and kill the hood motor. Fixed my brothers for him. Even got the original motor working despite being completely flooded for a few months. They are hard to get to so just keep the drain clean by finding the outlet by the back wheels and pushing a cleaning rod up. Pour water over the top and make sure it comes out the drain easily and its good to go. Make it a service item. Other than that whilst I quite like them they are like most bmws in my opinion a bit soulless but each to his own.

Dont know the measurements for the proper hood as making my own but just to say I did successfully bend aluminium tube for my hood support without a kink in sight. I made a former out of plywood and just clamped the end and pulled it around by hand. Turned it over and did the other end. I cant remember what size tube I think 3/4 inch. I also turned some solid bar to fit in the ends to create the hinge joints. Still haven't finished it but all looks like it should work. Hth

Yep tuner nuts on mine. Added benefit of being slightly harder to nick. Although not sure I anyone nicks alloys anymore. The other thing to check which I have been very bad for not doing is ensuring the centre hole is correct for the hub. I've just bought spigot rings for mine and will be fitting shortly. If you haven't already you should look to do that also.

The problem you'll have with the rover is that you'll need a different bellhousing. Do you have a type 9? (reverse up to left) if so then you can fit different bellhousings. see here for examples of price etc http://www.rwdmotorsport.com/bellhousings.html I think i am correct in saying that the superspec that came with the rover engine had an adaptor plate that RH made, which isn't the best setup from what i've read. If you want to keep costs down stick to ford. Pinto's are silly money now (and rather old - last one made is around 1991/92) when you can buy an entire mondeo with a 2ltr zetec for less than half the cost and it will be 20bhp more out of the box at least. Although you will need an engine management system. So it is a bit swings and round abouts but you'll get an engine that is much more modern.

Still trying to sell my old beemer. been asking £200 but no one wants to even pay that so think i will have to accept it's only worth the £150 i've been offered a couple of times (all without actually seeing the car). But this did amuse me 'would it be possible for you to send me some pictures of any documentation, regarding ownership of the car,' Why exactly would someone need pictures of my ownership documentation? perhaps i should just post the keys and the v5 for them to check at the same

hi, I run 195/50/15's which i think are a pretty common size on these cars. You don't need to go too wide as these cars are light. There are loads available in that size too. I run uniroyal rainsport 3's which cost be £48 all in per corner. I don't push hard though so can't really say if they are good for that or not but they seem ok to me on a spirited drive.

out of interest as i'm thinking of an engine swap at some point soon... The ecu seems to be the sticking point for me as they are expensive and you ideally need it rolling roaded which adds another couple of hundred. Is there a reason you could take a working car and cut the orginal wiring loom back and remove bits that aren't needed. If you did it in sections and checked the car still ran then eventually you'd be left with an ecu. You'd probably have to leave some bits wired together like door locks and leave a key connected for the imobiliser which could be a useful addition. It obviously won't be tunable but you know it would run well from the start without RR or loads of tinkering. Is that do-able?

Hi, a few things i can see in the picture you might find useful. I'm not sure how much you know already so apologies if you already know this. The front shocks look to be gaz golds (i run the same on my 2b) so hopefully they are still good. You can tell it's a superspec or dohc by the roll bar having angled sides (the 2bs are vertical) it also has a different tube layout in the engine bay Do you have gold coloured panels? the front wishbones look gold coloured and they did a version with gold coloured stainless panels. The front wing stays are missing the curved sections which go around the wheel. It is literally a piece of tube with a 90 degree which you connect to the straight part that is already fitted. I welded mine together but RH suggested inner tubes that are then screwed/bolted in place. Up to you but if you weld you can flat the joint so it looks like one piece. Side panels i glued and screwed mine on. I actually tapped 6mm holes and used button head bolts (screwfix do stainless ones pretty cheap). You won't need loads as it's not structural and sikaflex or similar will hold it pretty well. Engine is up to you but i'd suggest using a tried and tested option. If you have a type 9 (reverse up to left) or mt75 (reverse down to right) you might be best sticking to ford especially if the prop is all fitted etc. Or if you want to go off piste you could consider the mx5 as you could install the engine and gearbox as one and transplant the wiring loom etc. To be honest looking at the picture i would strongly advise you strip it down completely and inspect everything as you put it together replacing anything that's perished etc as you go (boots on track rods etc can be changed as the balljoint won't have been used but the rh supplied ones perished just by themselves). If you are driving this at 70mph down a motorway it's slightly more reasurring that you know you have inspected everything rather than assuming the last builder did it right. hth

I would guess gentle heat is the most likely way. Perhaps a steamer if you have one. Failing that a thin blade underneith like a stanley knife blade but wear gloves as if you are anything like me you'll definitely cut yourself?! (mostly on my left hand where i slip with the right doh!)

Mine is a pinto/type 9 but i really noticed that when cold the cable had enough pull but after driving it it would just clip reverse sometimes to the point of having to stop the engine engage reverse and starting up again. I've just switched to the cosworth longer cable and couldn't get enough pull so had to enlarge the diameter of the clutch quadrant and also there was a squidgy rubber part which i switched for a solid piece which makes it a much more positive feel not sure if the ducato one has similar but would prob be worth switching it out.

thankfully nothing too bad so far (fingers crossed it stays that way) but i remember coming up over a small crest that was a right hander. I lifted at the top and shifted the weight off the rear and lost it for a split second. thankfully regained it without incident or i would have been backwards over a bank full of trees with the river wye at the bottom.

I'd be really careful as if somehow you can get it taxed without the MOT by using a form it doesn't necessarily mean the DVLA database will be updated to say you have a valid mot or are exempt for the next 2 years. Use the online checker to make sure it says it's ok afterwards or if you have a bump you'll be in a whole mess of trouble.

washer is dead easy. If you have a bottle and pump already set up just add a momentary switch and run a live from the battery. If you need the bottle as well i literally used an old 2.5 litre bottle and cut a hole to put the sierra pump in. Only ever use it at mot.

That will be one fast car. But what about the tax? my brother-in-law had one of the last made and it was £550 a year! they drink fuel like it's free. Think he would get 20mpg on a good day and the spark plugs were about £180 each! Might be worth considering Q-plate if you can get it taxed on engine size, which would be rather nice if dvla would accept 1300cc. Not sure how they work it out now though. Will be awesome though