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Busy few days car just prepped for paint heres few photos of progress. my skills coming along slowly getting better and better at it. getting all ready for primer on sanded and we’re done tiny bit of fibre glass repairs. Hopefully get it in base grey down on hole body very soon.

Hi All, May I suggest we meet up at... Charity Farm Car Meet, popular, plenty of variety especially in the dry weather with many unusual and different vehicles. See Facebook for further info. When: Sunday 12th May 2024 Where: Charity Farm Fisheries, Wrightington, Smithy Brow, Wigan, WN6 9PP Time: 0900 - 1300 ish (I plan to get there about 9-9.30am it would be great to see you there Darrell

Old timers amonst us will remember we regularly took our cars to this show (easy for me as it is only 3 miles away ). But about 3 years ago a brand new Committee was formed and they didn't show any interest in cars displaying. I have just been contacted by the previous organiser who said they have seen the error of their ways and now wanted cars to display. It's on Sunday 23rd June (Its actually all weekend but the Saturday is primarily a music festival). The website is https://midsummerfestival.co.uk/ The postcode is NG33 4SB. It's a real old style village fair and a nice day out. If anyone fancies going please let me know.

I've got the GBS remote oil reservoir (similar thing) and I did use the Eazebleed system but it was hardly necessary - I could have easily done it by simply pumping the brake pedal by hand. What was useful from the Eazebleed system is a short pipe with a one-way valve on it. Attach that to each bleed nipple in turn and just pump the brake pedal until fluid runs clear without bubbles. Repeat for the other 3 calipers. My system has been like that for 7 years and 22k miles without any hassle (although it sadly doesn't look as clean and shiny now ).

Just taxed my 2.0 2B IIRC it was £325 pa, Ive done it monthly, almost £31 per month. I also live just inside Khans Kingdom, so Im facing ULEZ at £12.50 per day. I'd move abroad, but the EU wont let me. I'd move outside ULEZ, but the value of my house has now dropped just because of ULEZ. makes you feel like joining the travellers & sticking 2 fingers up at any kind of authority.

Thank you for the reply, I knew it was not as simple & is in fact counter intuitive, in my mind a larger cylinder has more oil therefore should be easier. Just tried to upload an image & it tells me it's too big, I'll pull it back off later, take another & see if I can find a 7YO to make shrink it for me. But this is the Amazon 1" one https://www.amazon.co.uk/DORMAN-PRODUCTS-ALLPARTS-M2796-MASTER/dp/B001PYRHP6/ref=nav_signin?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=606632412635&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7583416905106424428&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046274&hvtargid=pla-572117965588&psc=1&mcid=1ef4eb4699a23abca3ee58059c0861b0&th=1&psc=1&returnFromLogin=1

Thanks for the update Al, I am hoping to come down with a contingent from the NW again this year.

Increasing the master cylinder diameter to 1" will need approximately twice the pedal pressure for the same pressure onto the brakes. Can you fit something like this from CBS ? https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/075-brake-and-clutch-master-cylinder-with-reservoir

Not on a road going vehicle, it's an agricultural tipper which we intend to use at the livery where the daughter is to move the horseshoot around. When I got it the brakes weren't connected but slowly going through them, managed to remove the broken bleed nipples & put new lines in. But the MC is leaking, I've stripped it down & cleaned it up but there is still a very small amount getting past the seal. Now as the top speed is only 16mph & there is an brake disc on the propshaft it's not a big issue but I'd like to fix it as the grandkids will no doubt be bombing around on it. So eventually down to the question if you've got this far. There is only a single circuit all 4 wheels on the same one, each wheel has a 3/4" bore cylinder & the MC is also 3/4" bore I can order a new one from the US £100 for the MC, £70 shipping & then likely to be import taxes if they examine it. There is an alternative from a forklift for £80 delivered, but this has a 1" bore, what difference will the 1" over the 3/4" make?

You just beat me to it I've posted the map in a dedicated thread

Dont know where they got it but locostbuilders have a site map on there website https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/63/viewthread.php?tid=220687 We appear to be in the same position as last year.

Time is fast approaching. Remember there are now only 2 dedicated kit car shows, this one and Newark. So time to make an effort and come along. The website is at https://www.visitthemalverns.org/event/national-kit-car-show-2/ The parking plan is now available and is shown below. Our Club Stand is right in the middle and similar to last year. We are planning to have the AGM in a room in the exhibition Hall at 15:00 (still to be confirmed). This should allow even the far-flung members to come for the day and still get home before dark. For the campers the camping area is on the right. See you all there

I would expect that a 2 connector switch works by connecting both connectors together above a set temperature, with both connections being isolated from the body of the switch.

Road tax is a joke, my Chevy is on LPG with Zero emissions on gas yes full whack to tax, even worse is my Smart Brabus Roadster, 0.7l turbo engine, I’m sure a fart has more emissions yet the dvla want £160 for the year….. it probably only do 200 miles at best… Road Tax = Daylight robbery…. I bet when my RH7 is back on the road that will be the same over £300 with the 2.0l Pinto. Anyone feel like a run to No.10 anyways rant over…. Let’s enjoy the driving season all

As noted already, you'll probably need to raise the reservoirs to get the systems to bleed, however you may still struggle without a pressure bleeder (e.g. EeziBleed) due to the 'up and over' loops in your feed lines to the master cylinders as an air bubble can get stuck at the top of the bend. Ideally you want the pipes to the reservoir to be running up hill all the way from master cylinder to reservoir and that way there is an element of passive bleeding going on all the time and any air in the master cylinder can escape back up the pipe.

Finally got to mates body shop at last. crazy few weeks. re painted all blue panels and repair any issues and paint roll bar. I did fair bit of prep at home before so wasn’t taking too much of mates time up. filled front arched my self but put bit too much fiber glass on them but been a while since done body work so quickly learnt my mistake. Managed to rear tub a lot better. Things I could remove I did as it was only a small drive down road to his unit. I booked this week off work so help out too. Doors dismantled got new Perspex windows to go in and removed all old foam and glue. Mirrors to clean up and new foam too. removed drivers seat and harness so get to roll bar. rear tub has all been dismantled any cracks sanded down and filled. I made sure things all labelled up so easy to re install. exhaust tip removed so get arch better. I’ll posting few more updated this week on the car.

Bit of big catch up on striker. Front brake lines is still an issue, but they work hoping to get all sorted after done body work. hand brake works lovely which is a bonus since that worries me a little as didn’t want to spend £400 on rear disc conversion. car runs great, keep running it up to temp and new coolant doing its job. the clutch stuck a little bit but managed to get it free by myself. So lot happier now lol as typical everything goes wrong just before it’s booked in at the body shop. the aluminium panels in cockpit are mega dirty and haven’t been looked after well. So I have given good clean, tried to get looking better. I’ll give them a good once over again after body work been finished as only get covered in dust etc. taken seats out for deep clean too. Touched up black paint on the cockpit too. Cleaned all crap out from around seats. Given it some a lot of love as been neglected from previous owners, I think. car booked in at body shop so have more of an update later on.

We were there quite early Friday afternoon & it was quite funny how they initially tried to get people to setup between the non-existent lines, then we saw a bit of a face-off when they watched a guy get fully set-up before then tell him he had to move. Then I think they gave up & realised that most of the people arriving were pretty sensible, although hopefully the toilet block will be open before we arrive this time.

We went last year, it was a first come first served and we were told where to pitch. After a couple of hours they must have realised people wanted to set up together so they became more relaxed. It was a lovely man in his little buggy showing you where to go.

After a gap since buying my RH 2B Plus and am working on it to starting using it. I have been looking into some overheating issues which I may have resolved (just done many things including removed the incorrect gasket covering a third of the hole!) - time will tell! However, I have noticed an issue with the electric fan, which is wired via a thermostatic switch in the coolant system (which is earthed) and a manual switch on the dash - both continue to operate after the ignition is off, the fan had stopped coming on automatically(not the source of the overheating!). I bought a new thermostatic switch, but when I took the original (90 degrees) out and tested both, the new one did not work and the original did, so I cleaned it up and put it back in. The fan now turns on correctly with both switches, but is not turning off when the temperature drops significantly. If I disconnect it at the thermostatic switch and reconnect it immediately, the fan does not restart (only tested this with ignition off), but does start and stop with the dash switch (as expected). I also noticed once, that when I switched the dash switch on and off (ignition off), the fan stopped, but has this hasn't happened again, so far, it may have been coincidence. I am now wondering about the wiring or the thermostatic switch. I thoughts, ideas suggestion? If others think that it is still worth changing the thermostatic switch anyone know a supplier of the small thread diameter, so that I don't need to change the housing? Also, mine is the single connector variety, as the new one I bought (double connector) doesn't work, can I check my logic for the double connector type (which seem easier to get) do both connectors have the same function when the the thermostatic switch is on (hot) - I'll describe that as both +, or is one + and the other -?

Cheers guys looking forward to seeing some of the old face's and some of the new let's hope that the weather is kind. I've joined the dark side and will be in the motorhome, see you there. Allan

You can take a gamble on the weather and pre pay. £10 + £1p&p https://nationalkitcarshow.co.uk/tickets/

Make sure you have your £15 ready for the camping as you go through the gates