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I'm on the lookout for a stainless fuel tank for a 2B, the original RH one, ideally the bigger capacity one. It's not for me, I'm after one for a mate's car. Any leads appreciated.

Yeah I'm back at the car tomorrow so I'll grab some pictures of the alternator, the location of the alternator seems strange to me aswell, right on the bottom drivers side where the rad pip goes straight thru the centre of the belt, so to change the belt I need to drain the coolant

Most alternators use light to give early charging at engine start but most will self start charging when engine revs hit about 2000 rpm. Once charging the alternator only drops out when stopped. Some folk want something diferent when they build

Or the coil was linked to fuel pump switch, can't quite remember but pretty sure that's all irrelevant

That's great thanks Ian, ive been reading through some alternator threads, I'll need to confirm what alternator I have (was bought brand new last year just before I got the car) as I don't have a light on the dash or behind the dash, not sure if it matters but my ignition key only acts as a steering lock, turning the key does absolutely nothing except engage lock, the car Is turned on by a silly little red key that cuts power to the positive from the battery, then I have a 4 switch 1 button panel on the dash, looks like something from top gun, so to start the car, it was turn red key (passenger side footwell) flip up a red rocker cover, flick swith up (sent power to fuel pump, push the start button ( sent power to coil and starter) and the car started, then one switch turned the lights on, another switch controlled the fan, so on, the only thing that was controlled by the stalk was indicators, (now have all lights working from stalk so it's slow progress at the moment

Starter solonoid is low current and will not need a relay. Alternator main output is normally permently connected to the battery, it has 3 phase rectifiers (diodes) installed which stop the alternator discharging the battery when stopped. Second wire is to the bulb in the dash. Normally a relay (70A?) from the ignition switch powers the live line of the most of the fuses, side lights and hazard lights have to work with ignition off and are the exception. It does not matter which way the alternator power line runs main relay-battery or battery-main relay, the one that uses least cable is normally chosen.

Also another question regarding alternator, when I stripped the alternator wiring out, the was a brown wire from the alternator running through the firewall and splitting of in about 10 different directions, when it comes to re wiring, can I just run a positive from the alternator to the new fuse box positive to send power to my whole fusebox when the engine is running or should I just leave it with the wire running to the battery and charging the battery and all my fuse box power running from the battery?

Hi all, as some of you may remember, back end of last year I decided to tackle the mammoth task of the wiring (more like a group of 100 spiders had been let lose under the bonnet) but anyway due to several reasons (mainly health problems) I put the project on the back burner, but I am back at it and once more require a little advice so here goes........ whoever wired the car up clearly either had a death wish or just didn't have a clue, I had live wires going to thin air, limited use of relays, stalks that didn't work, everything was controlled by those little toggle switches and were just hardwired direct (I think hence why the fuel pump kept blowing) talking of fuel pump to put into context how messed up the wiring was, once I stripped most of the wires out and had nothing connected, If I put a live feed direct to the high beam wire on the left headlight, the fuel pump would run, that was the final straw, lost my temper and in a fit of rage, ripped the whole loom out and completely started again, now this I'd where I could do with a small bit of advice, there was no starter relay for the starter motor and no relay for the alternator (not sure if the alternator requires a relay) but I'm about 97.679% positive the starter motor should have a relay, so my question is, what amp relay and will a standard 5 pin 40amp work or will I require a bigger 100amp 2 rod type relay, bearing in mind the starter has the solenoid built in. Anyway sorry for the long read but thought if give an insight into what I've been up to, here's some before pictures, I'll stick up some after pictures here once I've finished

Not going to have my engine sorted in time so I'll be going in the tintop - see you there.

Sort of depends on how handy you are - done any car work before? Restoring an old kit is much harder than just starting from scratch; corroded parts, a completely unknown electrical system etc. £700 sounds pretty cheap to me - I paid more than that for just my gearbox...depends on the condition and how much work it will need. Got any pics?

The IVA is nothing to be worried about, if anything it's an experience to be enjoyed, it's bigged up to be horrible & daunting, but TBH it's not, I've done 4 SVA's & 3 IVA's (I think) & each one was different but enjoyable, even the fails. At least with the fail you get a finite list of things that need rectifying, you can talk to the inspector & ask him exactly what he wants to see to get a pass, which sometimes is not how you have read the rules. No idea on the price, scan Fleecebay & Feacesbook to see what people are asking for them now, but your £700 is going to be about £3500 by the time you've bought a donor, IVA & all the other bits & bobs. Also depends if you want the experience.

Sounds expensive to me. Complete cars required IVA have sold for about twice that amount.

Hi Alan, I hope to see you all there just returned from sunny Bead all Bay. Take care and travel safe.

Selling my 2B stainless chassis and body that I built myself as not getting used due to partners immobility and I have been gifted a dog. MOT Expiry date 27.9.2024 done approximately 20,000 miles since built, engine came out of a Sierra with 40,000 miles on the clock 2000cc pinto twin 45 Dellorto carbs, Piper fast road cam and vernier pulley, Modified sump, engine set up with Motorscope rolling road 2018. 4 Protect adjustable shocks. Reinforced nose cone, bulkhead, stainless steel removable luggage rack full wet weather gear and coverzone car cover. Asking around £5000 Contact Trevor 07875151973

Hi I have put a deposit on a RH2B, it was built as a track car and I want to strip it and rebuild it for the road. I’m paying £700 without engine or gearbox but the IVA issue is giving me second thoughts. Comes with a new body kit. What are your thoughts please?

Weather looking great for this weekend any one else thinking of meeting up at the Cat & Lion?

I should make it, hopefully in kit for a change as long as the rain holds off I think Neil is coming in his as well See you all there Stay safe Harry

Weather won't stop me if it's horrendous I might bring "the other car" instead... Also, fwiw, if we're short of numbers I could spread the word to another motor club who might fill 2 or 3 more spaces if need be...

See you there

Hi Craig, I've sent you a message. Regards, Andy

Since car been painted it sat in garage. I have managed to polish up all the aluminium managed to get that looking a lot nicer. General clean of the car since dusty from body shop. need to fit windows and doors next. All new nuts and bolts turned up i am thinking about running with and also without the doors. It got holes so I bolt up some Wing mirrors on. Put bits of trim on around nose cone and side of bonnet mounts so dose chip paint off too much. Also be adding some ppf or vinyl on rear arches so stop few stone chips. last big job was to paint the roll bar so hoping car be in full use after bank holiday weekend. not everything will be done but at least car will be usable and I can have some fun in it again.

Sadly, the time has come to part with my kit car - full details in the eBay listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176393840355?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=JCyq5FiWQmK&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=JCyq5FiWQmK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=EMAIL

Thanks everyone! That little 50amp one looks like a good bet. Fabricating a bracket should be fine.

And, I’m up in Doncaster. i have a silvertop block with cosworth pistons and steel rods from a turbo set up. I also have a set of Kent 2002 cams plus heads and ancillaries. Let me know if any interest. Cheers Craig