All Activity

Ian, search on YouTube for "May charity farm car show" pay attention to the time stamp 22:55, you will see someone you recognise

Hi Phil & Foz, I have mixed thoughts re a track day!!! I would have to drive there, take part and drive back hoping Rupert survived the time on track!?! I am looking at a 3 hour plus drive to get there, is there an inclement weather refund in place or is it non refundable. An insurance upgrade. All for 7 laps, unless I have misunderstood. I must admit it doesn't appeal BUT it would be so much fun!! Me thinks not for me at this time. I will watch the conversation as it develops. Darrell.

Thank you for the helpful info!!!

All the bits you have photographed showing rust are bolt on parts and not part of the chassis, so the ultimate solution is to strip the parts (e.g. front hubs, wishbones) and have them shot blasted and then either powder coated by the same supplier or painted with some decent paint onto the bare metal. If you are going to paint yourself (after the rust is gone!) then a Zinc rich primer is a good starting point and you can get this in aerosol form, and then a 2K epoxy based intermediate undercoat to add some toughness to the coating. For the top coat I've had a good experience (so far at least!) with brush on Chassis Black paint and this is probably tougher than a normal automotive top coat and important for exposed bits like the chassis and suspension.

Seems that lots of people have looked at this but nobody has replied - let us know what you think please (good or bad) 'cause we ain't psychic Thanks, Steve

In regards of paint, do you use spray cans and if so which one?

Thank you sooo much!

I used this on my car, works a treat for me. Rustins Rust Converter 250ml Clear | Toolstation left area in slight grey colour but once I painted over it you cannot tell. bought the metal up nicely and killed the rust off. Just make sure do all prep before hand with wire brush/wheel on grinder. I guess for the floor might be able to floor pan/pre cut one from tiger not sure if they do them or not. If not as most things I found with my kit car is to make it yourself. using a cardboard template and get sheet of metal and cut it out your self and rivet back on. search forum no doubt there be few threads of people doing this.

Hello all, I have bought my very fist kit car yesterday, was not a great experience to be honest as the car has some substantial rust and I am wondering if anyone knows how it can be treated? Also the floor needs to be repaired/replaced as it is damaged. What’s the best way of fixing these issues and if anyone has any experience, how much will it roughly cost? Thank you, Thanasis

By now all members who opted to have electronic magazine delivery should have received a "pdf" copy, and all others should have received a hard copy, of the Spring 2024 magazine. If anyone has not received a copy please let myself or Alan Richey know and we'll try to sort it out for you. We now have just over 2 weeks before the AGM is held at the National Kit Car Show at Malvern (Sat 1st June) and hopefully we'll see lots of you there. If you wish to have anything discussed, or would like to volunteer as Events Secretary, please follow the instructions in the magazine. Steve

Hi All, How about this one for us all to meet up at... When: Sunday 19th May Where: The Lightning Club, Mill Lane, Warton, PR4 1AX Time: 9am to 1pm free to enter See Facebook/ instagram for more info, a popular car meet on the Fylde open to all, bar & café for a brew and a butty on site. I have been before and there is a right mix of vehicles from classic to performance and even the odd truck or two!! Dog friendly Weather looking good for the weekend, see you there Darrell

Window screen removed, passed no advisory. Thanks guys

Anything apart from an A series Mini engine is nicer to drive that a Pinto & type 9

It was a busy weekend, I got painted and forgot to take photo of it. also managed to give quick drive around block too. But the passenger side rear drum sticking slightly so look into that after replacing them all. Hopefully an easy fix. also managed to replace front braid lines so all nice and new. Bleed brakes up with all new fluid too. here is 2x pictures of the car that I took quickly on Sunday afternoon. just need to new Allen bolts for windows so I can install them, I managed to sand them and buff old windows up a bit which is a bonus. So at least there save able. I did order new windows from MK Indy but not going to use them. As not perfect match. Few bits of trim to add and good polish/buff soon once paint set bit more. just ordered few more bit all’s for it. Then get it out soon I hope. I’ll do full photo update on car in the next week or so when it all back together etc.

Just do it, you won't regret it the mazda engine and box drive so nice compared to pinto and type 9.

I like Blyton Park - we've done a few track days there and we would definitely be interested in coming out to play. To any members who don't know the track it is a good, fun track which is relatively safe. There is plenty of run off around most of it so should you exceed your talent level you can slide off and look sheepish without hitting anything solid. I know, I might have slid off on the odd occasion

Some time ago when was involved as events sec a club track day was asked about. At the time the cost was massive , around the £8k mark. I now notice that Blyton park do a club track day. So i fired off a email to enquire and was surprised at the price. they basically limit the track to 6 cars and do about 7 lap sessions they have cut the cost by using cctv and less marshals. I enquired for 24 cars latter part of the year (sept), the price they came back with was £2950+vat so £3540 that works out at £147.50 per car if 24 cars. what are peoples thoughts?

Leicestershire area meet 15th May Dog and Gun Keyham. 6.30ish onwards, we had reserved parking last month long the bottom of the carpark.

When I was starting my first, permanent work in 1990, I had a week to get hold of a car to be able to get there and back. I didn't have much money and I ended up with a Yugo 45. If that was not bad enough, the tailgate was rusty, the clutch was slipping, a CV joint was on the way out, the accelerator cable was frayed and needed to be released by pulling the pedal up with the top of my shoe (an interesting ride home) and the bottom engine mount was split. It was only four years old, but had had a very hard life as a driving school car. The good side was that I paid £500, replaced the clutch myself, sorted the cable, tidied up the tailgate and fitted an engine mount from a scrapyard - I left the CV joint alone - and 6 months later, I traded it in for £500, against a 2-year old Sierra. Definitely the best value for money car I owned, but awful from the start.

Thanks going to remove then fit wipers over winter.

Bore is not 100% I've gone for a dual outlet 3/4" one, need to make an adaptor plate & run new lines, we'll see how it goes.

If you give your location there may be someone local who could help?

If the bore is ok can you get some seals for it?

Another nice day for the East of England group. Weather superb, location lovely and a nice run in the cars for everyone. Thanks to all who supported it.

Very good point! i was thinking along the lines of preventative maintenance but in reality your right, i’ll leave as is for now and replace it in the future! thanks again for all the advice on this