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R1 Carbs


jaimo

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Buy two solderless nipples of the right diameter.(your local bike or motorbike shop will have them) One should be the right diameter to fit in the hole in the quadrant on your carbs. Cut the current nipple off the cable end. Replace with one solderless nipple and work out a fix that allows it to rotate in the end of the accelerator pedal so the cable does not fatigue and break at this point. Then run to the quadrant on the carbs and the other nipple.

Did you check exhaust header temperatures to see if number 3 was getting warm and firing OK? I hope it is.

 

Nigel

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Thanks nigel i think i spotted where cable fits in carb linkage carbs off again

Ordered a cable from burton power that connects on sierra peal balljoint so that easy and just need a 5.5 nipple when cable comes for carb end hopefully

Starts and revs sound just popping on warm up once warm fine just sprays abit of fuel out carbs

Will test drive wen got cable then if ok will leave as is till i rewire megajolt so fingers crossed

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You need to provide some sort of cable length adjuster similar to the motorcycle one. That will allow you fine adjustment of pedal take up position and also compensate for any future cable stretch

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Yeah it does yeah the issue i got is the amount of striping to get to pedal is silly the builder over engineered it

I will have to sort this make it acessible without having to remove servo etc

The advice is great guys

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Right got cable on on and working

Pump tempoary position and plumbed up in boot ready for roadtest

Popping through exhaust and spitting from carbs gets abit better when warm what best thing to calm this untill gets rolling rd when megajolt fitted

May risk to meet tomorow night aa card with me lol

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Well set off to the meet wednesday with new carbs and standard dizzy and bike fuel pump

Was going great it flew and apart from drinking fuel fuel gauge dropping with revs(set up required ) over fuelin

Then half way there cud of swore there was a pop then major misfire

Pulled over pulled number 3 plug lead and end stayed on plug so thought that problem so bodge repaired but still misfire took plug out cleaned al seemed good half mile down rd misfire again nursed to meet

Did same again then few mile home misfire again nursed to stus fitted new plug and lead and drove fine home

So nxt day checked spark and seemed weak so tempoary fitted megajolt what a spark difference started and tick over brilliant hardly any spitting or popping then misfire pulled leads off when got to number 3 made no difference plug fouled again

When engine cooled checked compressions all 4 125psi on cold engine so back to square 1 going to fit spare head and if does it with different head then bottom end rebuild

When look through plug hole the bottom rim of valve its black with what looks like oil

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