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Zetec Rattle


nelmo

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For a quicker temporary measure you could pick up a used blacktop from your local scrappy. Quick engine swap and you're back on the road by sunday evening.

 

Ha, aha, aha....for you, maybe. For me, with my single garage, no engine crane, wife moaning about how much time I spend in the garage, not a chance - it would take me weeks.

 

I think I fixed the low oil pressure problem (did an oil pressure test after re-welding the oil pickup pipe and got 5+ bar).

 

Can I take the crankshaft out with the engine still in the car?

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Ha, aha, aha....for you, maybe. For me, with my single garage, no engine crane, wife moaning about how much time I spend in the garage, not a chance - it would take me weeks.

 

I think I fixed the low oil pressure problem (did an oil pressure test after re-welding the oil pickup pipe and got 5+ bar).

 

Can I take the crankshaft out with the engine still in the car?

Neal If you don't have the equipment to remove the engine have you a friend that has.

 

You have to remove the engine from the gearbox to be able to remove the crank.

 

I would not recommend trying to even work on an engine in the sump down position for doing any job on the bearings or crank, gravity is not your friend to help you.

 

It needs to come out and the job is made so much easier by doing so.

 

Sorry to be against your hopes but I have to be honest and tell you the facts.

 

Regards Martin

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Don't necessarily follow what I did but, clean the bearing off the crank to check the true extent of the damage as a small scratch is nothing major. I took a chance with mine and just fitted new big end bearings without checking main bearings as didn't want to take the engine out. Applied loads of engine assembly grease to the new bearing shells and bit the bullet and put it all back together. Fitted a new oil filter and oil ran for 30 mins until hot, let it sit for an hour then dropped the oil and new filter and oil again to try and flush the metal out the oil gallery's and it's been ok ever since

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Don't necessarily follow what I did but, clean the bearing off the crank to check the true extent of the damage as a small scratch is nothing major. I took a chance with mine and just fitted new big end bearings without checking main bearings as didn't want to take the engine out. Applied loads of engine assembly grease to the new bearing shells and bit the bullet and put it all back together. Fitted a new oil filter and oil ran for 30 mins until hot, let it sit for an hour then dropped the oil and new filter and oil again to try and flush the metal out the oil gallery's and it's been ok ever since

Yeah, exactly what i was thinking of doing - if it goes bang in the future, then I'll obviously take it out and get another but i just don't have the time or energy to do that now - I've spent long enough in the garage this summer.

 

Apologies for the cowboy attitude everyone, i would love to do it right but can't right now.

Edited by nelmo
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Certainly looks like metal to metal contact due to no oil film to me.

Yes, it seems my oil pickup pipe was a Friday afternoon special from Tiger - this is what i found when i first took the sump off:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XVbRhZSzZrVegodi8

 

This was the pipe originally:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4MpnTK4Jp9Z7BnYNA

 

...and after i had it re-welded:

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dw665ATbrZReFADP6

 

So pickup touching the sump floor, bugger all oil pressure for 3500 miles! Hence buggered bearings etc...

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That's what it looked like when I took the old bearings out, no work done to it. My bearings weren't smeared on it.

 

If your going the quick risky root get the crap off the crank and see what it looks like. You can try polishing the crank if it's bad. Just make sure there's no deep scratches or high surfaces which will damage the new bearing

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OK, looking good so far - with a light rub of emery paper, the remains of the bearing came off the crank and I cannot feel or see any scratch or other damage. However, it looks a bit dull - what do I polish it with? Can I clean it with brake cleaner?

 

Couple of other questions - I've done cylinder 4 and the Haynes manual says torque to 15nm and then another 90deg. But I did about 30deg extra and it doesn't feel like I can easily go much further. I've had a history of stripping threads by over-tightening and I really don't want to do it here - is that extra 90 deg really what I need to do?

 

Cylinder 4 was, thankfully, ok although there is a line down the centre of the bearing which suggests it might have been going the same way as cylinder 1:

 

IMG20180913204353.jpg

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