kevin the chicken

Do you have a definite date Yet? The leave booking sheet for next year is already out in my office and soon fills up so I need to get my name down asap or I won't make it unless it falls on my Saturday off. As to activities my wife had some ideas the last time we managed to get there a couple of years ago for the children,kite flying and face painting spring to mind. Come to think of it face painting for the adults could amusing after a couple of Drinks!

Earplugs! The cheap option

I looked online and they were originally fitted with the low compression engine giving about 75hp using the 205 block. Hopefully yours has the high comp one.

Depends on the state of tune of your engine. I believe the some of the single carb's can provide plenty of fuel for a mildly tuned engine and obviously will be less expensive and complicated to set up. Twin 40s will sound nice though and if you are intending to search for big horsepower will perform well.

Seem to remember a p100 race series many moons ago. You have plenty of good advice coming in from all directions, I think the most important thing is to take your time and get it right. You must have enough knowledge and parts to do the job so don't give yourself unreasonable time targets, everything always takes longer than you think. I have just been in a similar situation and the best thing I did was write off all the shows I was going to attend to take the pressure off myself so I could give myself time to do things properly. Good job too as there have been a couple of problems which I hadn't foreseen due to previous bodges before I purchased the car

+1 for dave at dampertech. He knows his stuff having dealt with many of these cars. If I hadn't dropped my phone and completely ducked it up I would put his number on here. If you Google dampertech his contacts will pop up.

Probably or cortina or capri. If you can find a better one that will fit some improved cooling can only help. Lots of posts on here where people have different rads or custom ones.

Mine is also a 1996 registered car but it says robin hood on the logbook

Definitely start with the Electrics. As you say start from scratch so you know what is what. I had Dan do mine as it is a dark art to me but I think not having them done when I first got the car held me up no end. If the original builder wasn't brilliant then you will find every time you sort one thing out another will pop up but you just have to work through it when time and money permit. Due to my enforced engine change I have sorted a lot of things out that have been annoying me for years so hopefully I will only have to drive it in the future.

As the song goes, what a difference a day makes. Good to hear of someone being lucky rather than unlucky. With labour on top of all those parts that garage is going to be swallowing a big bill although I guess the manufacturer will have to cough up in the end

No need anyway. Managed to get it in by taking the thermostat housing off and jacking the engine up slightly, once it was on the studs there was plenty of clearance. It was difficult trying to work out where to trim the body panels so that it would go in but Claire had the idea of making a flexible dummy manifold out of rolled up chicken wire so that we could see if our measurements were on the right track. First attempt was too small so cut another 10mm out and it went straight in. Clever girl. Not the first time she's got me out of trouble.

I am currently on the last few stages of my engine change and am trying to fit a stainless steel 4 into 1 manifold I got cheaply from ebay. It's a bit of a tight squeeze getting it in position between the engine and side of the car but I think I may be able to get it in by removing a few bits and bobs from the engine and the engine bay. If I can't would the performance be affected greatly by removing a small piece from each primary Pipe? I know someone who could do it for me and I am talking about only 5 or 10mm. Hopefully it will go in anyway but it would be good to know in advance. Regards all Kevin

Just thought I'd recommend a dealer who I have used a great deal since I have owned a kit car. He stocks mostly weber and dellortos spares but some other bits and pieces too. He has an eBay shop which is where I get my bits and pieces from, they are here a couple of days after placing the order. I had a technical question and he answered within an hour on a Sunday which helped me a great deal. Www.fast road cars.co.UK No relation to me, just that people who provide a good service deserve to do well

Both right, they are marine vents, I got mine off ebay and I think there was a choice of sizes. Fairly cheap too.

The fibreglass stuff becomes very fragile and disintegrates after a while. Not only that but is an itchy nightmare to handle no matter how much you cover up. I am interested to see how yours performs. When I wrapped my exhaust it reduced the under bonnet temperature by a good deal but the exhaust can got a lot hotter so it should work for you

For when the first one falls off and rolls under the seat where you can't get it.

As the others have said heat wrap makes a lot of difference. Some say that It causes the manifold to rust but I have just unwrapped my old one and there is no rust on it. Getting the hot air out will make a lot of difference too, bonnet vents are cheap enough. I used stainless steel marine ones, they look OK and more importantly work well. You won't be able to completely get rid of the heat as some will be conducted through the metal panels and chassis but you will be able to make a big difference with a bit of effort. One other thing, if you wrap the exhaust manifold you will push the heat further down the system so watch your legs when you get Out!

The letter to the kit car magazine is your best bet I reckon as people like to know the history of their cars. Well I do anyway. I have a 1956 fordson tractor of which I am the third owner, it has always resided half a mile from where it was sold new. Good luck with the search, let us know if you have any success.

A Milestone! Doesn't seem like five minutes since you started it. Good luck with the test

Performance similar on both, looks a matter of personal preference, sound webers best and as for economy you had best stick with what you have already as neither will be an improvement. I am guessing webers would be worse. Do you need to change yours to get more Power? If your engine is not a high spec one you may not need to change to get the best out of it. 500 quid seems a lot never mind 900 if you won't gain anything. Don't forget you will need a rolling road session to get the best out of whatever you fit, more cost

Auto silicone hoses sell hose bungs which are just pieces of pipe with ends on. I am going to use one on an unused heater outlet pipe to provide an easy drain outlet. They are available in different colours and sizes and they are Cheap!

Thanks guys,installed the correct way round

I am about to fit a new gearbox spigot bearing on my replacement redtop engine and have noticed that the needles don't extend all the way to end of the bearing casing. The rest of the casing appears to have a seal at the end so which way round should it be fitted, seal towards the engine or toward the Gearbox? Also should the bearing be greased at All? Obviously I don't want any grease getting on the clutch plate.

I have federal 595 on my car. Haven't really put a lot of miles on them yet but they grip well in the dry. I was told that they lacked the ultimate grip of the toyo in the dry but are better in the wet.

A quick measure sees it at roughly 20 high,20 wide and 90cm long. Not accurate to the millimetre but I can do that if you want. I thought they would probably vary from car to car like everything else. I can't help with the sender aperture as I used a different size one so had to use an adapter plate and that was the very devil to get sealed because of the imperfections of the surface so I am not uncovering that Again! Let me know if you need anything else measured as I am in the garage for the next three days.