cb750

Nice bit of engineering!

I'll have it if it will fit a 2 litre pinto. Let me know how much postage will cost.

I had my motorcycle ones done by Redditch Shotblasting. They needed the the pistons, seals and bleed nipples removed. They then plugged the small holes and high temperature taped the bores. Be carefully if it's a two piece (split) calliper as I have found some have seals at the joint. There were no problems in reusing the pistons and seals, just make sure the powder coating hasn't formed a lip at the cylinder opening which will damage the seal.

Caf, I've used the J & R driveshafts. I think I was the test bed! They will fit but you can't instal them like the originals as the diameter is larger and clearance is tight. To get them in you undo the gaiter on the inner joint and dismantle the joint (3 screws). Push the inner joint into the diff. You then put the outer joint and shaft into place from under the car as the outer joint assembly won't pass through the trailing arm hole as the original did. Undo the shock and lower the arm, you can then lift the shaft and part of the inner joint back into place. Jack up the trailing arm and reassemble the inner joint. Outer joint clearance is very tight and you can't fit the plastic stone guard but I am making stone guards to fit. The boss at J & R was really helpfull and supplied replacement clips and grease etc. he will be making a different size shaft in the future now he understands the problem. He said that the current push in shafts will take more power than the originals. Rob

Don't know of any other rebuild instructions. My Haynes manual for the sierra doesn't cover it. Rob

Don't know if this will work, it covers type N boxes which i understand is the type 9. It's from the ford manual. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/4i6b4ll85wqsfu2/%27N%27_Transmission.pdf?token_hash=AAFxiy7-IwI4xJAt2j1G9KuXebeMqCsxa9UkTlsNMXnWOA&dl=1

Photos as promised. Hope they upload properly this time!

I used one of these for my 3A as the 2b dash could be cut down to fit it. The quality was good. I had to cut the lower curved edge to clear the steering column and glassfibred a curved piece in to reinforce the dash as it had become weak. Finished it in carbon fibre vinyl wrap (took a lot of time to get it round the reverse curve on the lower edge). Tip: the wrap will try and creep back at the cut edges so I used a thin layer of Tiger Seal brushed on to hold it in place. I will try and post some pictures later.

Just thought. Could also be the sump gasket!

I used the landrover ones. Made an adapter plate to take them but mine had to have the top studs increased in diameter and lengthened to fit the cast steel engine arms.

It's probably the crankshaft oil seal leaking

Trying to view on the iPad, this is probably the problem. I'll go and blow the dust off the PC later and give it a try!

Thanks Simon. Even though they say that they are specially for 7 type cars I wondered if they were the short length or not. (I found that GBS don't always know the spec of what they are selling). I suppose if they smack you in the face at least they would keep me awake on long journeys!!! By the way, the link you put up didn't work for me. Rob

Does anyone have these 4 point TRS belts fitted to their Robin Hood? If so, can you let me know the top strap minimum and maximum lengths and also are they OK?

I used the acidic type alloy wheel cleaner with success on an alloy casting, it's the type that actually dissolves the surface of the alloy so you need to be careful and not leave it too long!

They are rare!!!

I agree with Bob. The kitcar was probably damaged and the insurance paid out. The owner then bought it back from the insurers and rebuilt it. It was then checked and put back on the road. You used to be able to get a list of previous owners from the DVLA (you have to pay) if you can do that you could contact the owner and find out the history, I did this with a Triumph Stag that we owned. An HPI check would have shown this if it had been an insurance write off claim

Has anyone got a good condition sandwich plate with thermostat for an oil cooler instalation suitable for a pinto? If so, let me know how much you want for it! Thanks in anticipation, Rob

My 3a is like snapperpaul's 3. Both have the stainless box section running widthways across the car to mount the headlamps

As snapper said, don't cut the can! You can't get the replacement kits any more. If you use the stretch cv boot kit you may need the special cone to expand the boot over the joint to prevent damage to the boot .

Just had a look at a couple of spare sealed beam units and found they are marked drive left as well! Also are e marked and have Wagner USA on them. Wired them up and they dip down and to the left. I assume drive left means for driving on the left. Hope this helps. Rob

Any suggestions where I can get some surface mounted slimline 80mm diameter (approx) stop/tail and indicator lights from? I have looked at bolt on bits, Europa and CBS but they are all too large.

Have heard this when a glow plug went as Bob said.

Glad you are okay Mick. Rob

No longer needed is a pair of NEW unused never fitted Robin Hood rear wings that I previously bought off a Rhocar member for £80. Some work will be needed on the edges before painting or vinyl wrapping. For sale for £60. Collection from Aldridge West Midlands