cb750

Mark, have you got a 3A as the front lower ball joint is part of the Sierra track control arm on my 3A. It does not have a lower wishbone.

Anyone have a drawing for the adapter plates?

Mines bolted vertically off the left side rail behind the dash in line with the scuttle. The connector socket then faces you and is easier to connect to.

The Halfords one looks good. Any idea why it says not to use on fibreglass cars? Bit concerned about the wings on my car.

Mine's similar to AndyW but also includes Allen keys, spare relay and locking wheel nut key. I also carry an AA card for anything major.

The link doesn't show the advert for me. Has the car been sold? Edit: Found it by using the search function. Looks like a nice car.

Anyone had experience of the emission type DHLA40N carbs, are they any good or is it better to go with the earlier non emission ones?

Tape measure arrived today, good heavy duty item! Thanks to all involved in the raffle

Finished work when I was 56, 16 years later I still don't know how I found the time to go to work!

Mounted my trigger wheel on the front with a turned shoulder on the pulley wheel and elongated slots for position adjustment bolted on using the holes in the pulley. Used 10mm ally plate out of the scrap box to make the bracket. The whole assembly is rigid and doesn't vibrate

How did they strap the car down into the rollers?

According to my Kent cam info they are 10 thou inlet, 12 thou exhaust for a pinto

Yes, I've fitted 55 and 58mm ones to the Sierra pedal box. Both were Febi. I believe numbers are: 55mm Febi number 01388 ford 6189055 58mm Febi number 11439 ford 1029013 Have you got the correct cosworth cable? It should be the 2wd version. Mine works ok.

I fitted a low pressure spring to my red top facet but still needed a regulator near the carbs as the pressure was too variable

I believe the mk 1 Sierra (82-86) had the nut on the end of the column, the later ones used a bolt. The Sierra Haynes manual doesn't mention the bolt version only the nut one. My column is the nut version.

Snapperpaul's reminded me that I too used long thin bolts and nuts at the bottom join of the frame and not the screws that were originally there.

My reinforcing strip. (Not a very good photo) One of our friends had a deer jump on the front of his car as well!

Mmm, don't know why it's added the reply twice!

I used m6 hex head bolts with the heads turned down to about 2mm thick (from memory) inserted into the channel with the thread sticking through the screen supports. Finished with dome head stainless nuts. There is also a supporting strip welded at the back of the supports to give more support to the screen. Photo during rebuild:

I used m6 hex head bolts with the heads turned down to about 2mm thick (from memory) inserted into the channel with the thread sticking through the screen supports. Finished with dome head stainless nuts. There is also a supporting strip welded at the back of the supports to give more support to the screen

Have you got access to a meter that could give you a reading of what current it's actually providing? This would tell you whether it's a faulty alternator or an external circuit problem.

Batterybay do a sealed battery that may suit, you could give them a ring. http://www.batterybayuk.co.uk/leoch-lifetime-063-sealed-battery---high-capacity---lifetime-warranty-212-p.asp

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It's on their web site K and R DVLA SA99 1ZZ

Mines on a 3A chassis. Couldn't find any suitable free holes on the pinto to mount it so it bolts to the beam that links the two tie rods. The rear edge pushes against an angle bolted to the bell housing with rubber between them. Couldn't bolt the guard at the rear because the engine twists slightly on its mountings. .