RedTrev

I’ll take those bonnet catches, please, Steve. If they’re not getting in your way, I’ll take them next time we meet, no rush this end. Cheers, Trev.

It's worth considering the point that Ian is making here. I experienced this with a 1380 tuned Mini (many) years ago. Try retarding the ignition timing or, alternatively, crank with the ignition electrically disconnected. If the engine turns freely with no ignition, you'll know it's ignition timing causing the issue.

Hi, you can check here: https://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-manufacture-dates.html Assuming you have a Ford engine, it was built Sept 1988.

Battery charging condition tell tale is optional according to IVA manual section 33. Even the symbol and colour suggested in table A are for guidance only, but alternatives should not cause confusion to the driver.

I'm following this thread with interest... ...a question: is there a good reason why none of the inlet manifolds I've seen include a flange (or maybe 4 separate flanges) to bolt the original carb-to-head rubbers to (and negate the need for the slippery silicon hoses)? Is it purely cost, or some technical reason?

Are you staying there until Thursday Rich?

What a fabulously concise write-up on bike carbs, Kevin; was a riveting read. Got me thinking about getting some for my Pinto.

Might pop over, all being well

Glad you got it fixed Rich. Solidified grease was a problem for old wind up gramophones too, I've got an HMV model 145 (1929-1933) which needs a bit of tlc to the motor due to solid grease. The NSM City II jukebox I've got (seen in boozers across the county in the 80s) has been reliable over the 20 years I've had it, just needing the speaker cone surrounds replacing on the 2 x 10" woofers about 4 years ago, as the original ones dried and disintegrated. The system plays the records vertically, with the mechanism moving along a rack to the records, rather than the records moving to the mech, if you get my drift. The German juke boxes didn't get the style like the Americans ones did though!

Rock-Ola of the late 50s certainly took the style of American cars of the era, ... did they package-protect for a V8?

Your circuit looks ok for a points ignition system. If you're using the motorcraft module then it needs to be connected. Here's my circuit when I ran with the module, before changing to Megajolt: 6 wires to the module: B = Black to +12v ignition N = Brown to ground BR = Black/Red to Inductive trigger GY = Green/Yellow to Inductive trigger BG = Black/Green to cranking signal G = Green to coil neg My rev counter is not a Smith's RVI, so is wired differently to yours, but the module wire functions are the same. Your brake lights coming on??? Not sure about that, but I think you need to double check all the wires you are using really are what you think they are.

Be sure the existing wire feeding +12v to the + teminal on the coil is removed (else no current will flow through the tacho and it will show no reading). The only wire connecting to the + coil terminal should be the one from the tacho (the green wire in my picture in the post above). And don't forget to ground the case of the tacho (the black wire in the picture). Then, if your engine runs but the tacho still doesn't show a reading, swap the two wires on the bullet connectors, so the circuit is then like this:

(Ignore the wire colours btw)

If the +12v ignition feed that goes to your coil is fed through the tacho as per the circuit diagram (on page 14), then it should still work. The electronic ignition module, that you have shown, replaces the points, but you still have a coil with LT wiring.

That's right, your tacho will sense the voltage change at the coil neg, as the points open and close.This earlier tacho (it looks like "RVI" hiding underneath the tacho needle in the photo) uses the current in the ignition LT circuit to drive it.

You might want to look at this document https://www.triumphclub.co.nz/wp-content/gallery/pdfs/Smiths.pdf I think the one at the top of page 7 looks like yours, and shows the function of the connectors. I'd go for the circuit diagram shown at top of page 14.

You could always leave the mech pump plumbed in as normal and run the electric pump in series. If the elec pump fails the mech pump will keep you running.

Now sold.

Yes Dale, still available.

A pair of blue fibreglass cycle wings for sale. They have never been fitted, so no holes drilled. Some surface scuff marks here and there but generally in a good condition. They are 74cm over the curvature (other dimensions in photos). £40 the pair. Preferably collect from Coventry but could post within UK at cost.

If you want new, then Caerbont Automotive Instruments now make the classic Smiths gauges. You can check their website https://www.smiths-instruments.co.uk/classic. There's a tab for their dealers, which includes Demon Tweeks, Europa, Mini Spares and the like.

I would suggest then it's a tacho designed for a vehicle (possibly a diesel, although the scale is high (10k)) which has a magnetic sensor to generate the pulses (there's reference to "perception head" on the cct diagram). The number of pulses per revolution on its intended vehicle (induced by a toothed wheel perhaps) may not match the pulses of a 4 cylinder ignition coil based vehicle.

Can you shine the bonnet a bit more Richy, the reflection is a little blurred. Nice pair of finishers!

Hi, If I was going to connect that rev counter to a vehicle with an ignition coil I would probably try wiring it like this: Is this how you've already tried it? If no, then try this way, if yes what was the outcome?

Ahh, I see. Yes, "Any Colour" is a lesser known track from Floyd's greatest (in my opinion) album Dark Side of the Moon.