richyb66

Single CHMSLs should be mounted as close to centre line as practicable (small vans with 2 rear doors will have the lamp offset), must be higher than the mandatory stop lamps and no maximum height limit. So mounted on the rear panel, to the side of the spare wheel would look odd (unless you used a pair), but would be acceptable.

Interesting as this thread might be to people (given the number of views it's getting), maybe it's time it was locked? There must be better things we could be talking about.

How about DVLAINCONSISTENCY Should pass if it's stamped at least 3.5mm high

Pop along to an area meeting - last Wednesday of the month 7pm onwards at the Malt Shovel Pub, A45 Stonebridge Island, Birmingham CV7 7HL There's usually a good turnout and a few cars to look at (just not mine yet - unless Audis are your thing). Lots of free advice and encouragement available. http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=cv7+7hl&aq=&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=9.42749,41.572266&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Coventry,+West+Midlands+CV7+7HL,+United+Kingdom&z=15

Does this mean we might see you in it at our next area meeting a week tomorrow? Venue Malt Shovel Pub, A45 Stonebridge, Birmingham CV7 7HL http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=cv7+7hl&aq=&sll=53.800651,-4.064941&sspn=9.42749,41.572266&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Coventry,+West+Midlands+CV7+7HL,+United+Kingdom&z=15 Entrance to pub car park is off the A452 Chester Road heading North 50 yards from the island

I had the same problem as I've got the 3 outlet pressed steel Girling cylinder too. Not sure why these should be twice the price of the cast cylinders but it would seem that they are and the differences in the mounting positions mean they aren't interchangeable. As it was the only part of the system that wasn't new I bit the bullet and bought a new one which was about £80 on the basis that I wasn't certain that a seal kit would be easy to source or do the job. However I just found this http://www.shawsmotorsport.co.uk/cubecat/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=473 which might be worth a punt if your cylinder bore looks in good condition. I agree that fitting seals is a waste of time of the bore is damaged, but I wouldn't have a problem sticking a set of seals in an working cylinder just to freshen it up.

As title - Tuesday night from around 6-30 onwards http://www.beckettsfarm.co.uk/temppages/meet.html

Think you might need to put a price on them - as per Rule 7, it seems to keep everyone happy.

Have a look here, it's all explained http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=23043

Yes - black is 55mm, white is 50mm http://nw.rhocar.org/clutch%20pawls.htm

Ignore B in the first picture for setting the belt tension. Just tension the belt so that it cam just be twisted 90 degrees by hand at the mid-point (where the Ford setting tool is shown) and that will be ok. Once everything is set up as shown in A - the rotor arm needs to be pointing towards the terminal on the distributor cap that will be plug lead 1 and then the firing order is 1 3 4 2 going clockwise. this should be close enough to at least get it running. If you don't lock the distributor clamp down tightly, you can get an assistant to slightly rotate the dizzy anti-clockwise as you crank the engine to get it going. Ideally Number 1 plug lead should be positioned nearest the timing cover (so that the position of number 1 is known) but in practice it's not that important and the leads will be still long enough to reach the plugs.

Designed at SAIC's Tech Centre here in the UK for the China market (LHD) initially as the Roewe 550 and then re-engineered for RHD and EU standards and branded as MG. The engine is Euro 5 compliant based on the K series (but hopefully without the head gasket issues). This engine was just something quick to get them in the market, further ranges of engines have been developed and will launch later.

Must be 17 digits (capital letters and numerals), in a single line with no spaces between characters to insert extra ones. Minimum character height is 3.5mm. "The stamped in VIN must be stamped on the chassis, frame or other similar structure which is not easily removeable, on the right hand side of the vehicle." "The stamped in VIN must be placed in a clearly visible and accesible position by a method such as stamping, etching (metal chassis), or embossed, moulded into the structure (glass fibre or carbon fibre) so that it cannot be obliterated or deteriorate.

I took this picture at work today as we had a small display on for some visitors. It's a 1933 K3 MG Magnette. 1086cc six cylinder supercharged and 120bhp. It had a 4 speed pre-selector gearbox and this car was one of the works entries in the 1934 Mille Miglia - it finished 11th overall and 2nd in class, the only one of three works cars to finish the race. This would have set you back £795 when new - value now? Rather a lot I would think given it's history and the fact that it's absolutely mint (the photos don't really do it justice) For comparison, the MG6 in the background is a 1.8 litre turbo 4 cylinder petrol, 160ps and starts at £15495

The Becketts Farm meets start again tonight at Becketts Farm, Wythall, Birmingham, B47 6AJ - starts around 6-30 more here http://www.beckettsfarm.co.uk/temppages/meet.html

Use a 2WD Cosworth Sierra cable, it's much longer and will allow you to route the cable forward of the engine in a big loop and avoid through the exhaust manifold completely. More details here: http://nw.rhocar.org/parts2.htm

38mm on the pump, 32mm on the rad

I had a clearout in the garage last night and found out this Rover V8 Engine book by David Hardcastle. This book is not a tuning guide as such, more a history of the engine and some of it's sporting applications. It's hard back, in pretty good condition and an interesting read. So, if anyone's interested just make a £10 donation to Hoody Bear by going here http://www.charitygiving.co.uk/hoody_bear , then pm me your address and I'll get it posted out to you at my cost (no overseas bidders please) and finally stick a reply on here saying you've made the donation, so that no-one else will donate as well (unless of course you fancy making a free donation) Should be simple hopefully. I'm not on here at weekends so I'll check first thing Monday and if a donation has been made, it'll go in the post on Monday

Can't believe they haven't heard of a P100 - maybe it wasn't sold in France. More information on it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_p100 Might be best to phone GBSC first to see it they've got anything left there in stock, their phone number is +44 1623 860990 I found this thread on the locost builders forum which suggests that the later P100 front suspension (Sierra type) shares most of it's components with the 2WD Cosworth so maybe that might be worth looking in to, given that 2WD Cosworth parts will be much easier to get hold of. http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/2/viewthread.php?tid=58163

The Co2 percentage might be lower on the RR but the output per mile will be more that the Pinto because the engine is bigger. You're actually getting great value on the RR - before March 2001 it's 2 bands for car tax, up to 1549cc and then over 1549cc. If the RR was newer than March 2001 you'd probably be in the top band, band M and paying £435 a year.

My missus was complaining last year that her insurance had gone up and it was because I'd got a 2nd speeding on my license and I was a named driver. So we removed me as a named driver and re-ran the quote and it came out even dearer ???? - obviously they figure I'm less of a risk that her and, as a named driver, the more driving I do in the car will leave less time available for her to be driving and have a crash. I've basically sussed that the reason that insurance works like this ..... INSURANCE COMPANIES ARE RUN BY PEOPLE WHO WERE TOO STUPID TO WORK IN A BANK. This is also probably the reason that this happened - I recently sold my 1998 VW Transporter 1.9td (69bhp) panel van which I had insured fully comp, S,D & P cover - no business use (just a private vehicle) and it was costing me £446 to insure with my 9 years NCB and 6 points. As they wouldn't swap the insurance to a car, I cancelled it (it's run just under 5 months) and they charge me 80% of the premium, plus a percentage of the premium, plus a £75 cancellation fee. So basically it cost me an extra £9 to cancel the policy 7 months early. Grrrrr I've now got an Audi S6 Avant 4.2 V8 340bhp and the premium has increased to just £477 for the same cover (different insurance company though). And finally, when is NCB not NCB? Well apparently it's when it's accumulated on a van insurance. So I've had car insurance for years, last claim I made was probably 11 years ago (when I had protected discount anyway) and I had a no fault accident (ran a dog over - Jag 1 Dog 0). So then 4 years ago I get the van, insure it and tell them that I'd got X years NCB and told them about the dog incident and they seem happy to use the NCB. Now when I swap back to a car and insure that, they say the last 4 years NCB don't count as they were gained on a van policy!!!! I asked what the difference was - it's not like vans don't have accidents, not making a claim is not making a claim. At this point they started to get a bit ar5ey so I just said, OK forget the van NCB, I'll just use the car NCB I have before that and they said it had expired because I hadn't insured a car in the last 2 years. What a load of toss, they just seem to make these rules up as they go along, none of this was explained to me beforehand and it isn't anywhere in the policy that I could see. Now my new insurance have asked for evidence of my NCB, which I'd got from the old company when I cancelled the policy - it says 9 years but doesn't specifically say car or van although it does say VW Transporter on it, so I'm waiting for the new insurance to say I can't use it on the car and see a big hike in my premium. I feel a rant to the insurance ombudsman might be in order. With all the money these muppets are making you'd think they'd keep their own central database of who's made what claims and when rather than relying on customers to produce the evidence. On a lighter note, I'm very pleased with the Audi.

Can you post up a picture of what you're after, I've got an '89 Sierra loom but it's a tangled mass of wires in a large box. The connector may or may not be in there but if I know what I'm looking for it would help finding it.

Hi Pierre, have a read of this thread here - http://www.rhocar.org/index.php?showtopic=27038 it explains that the Exmo used a Ford P100 front strut insert. These should be easily available in France from a motor factor. It might be worth checking that your suspension is exactly this type first and maybe take the old shock absorbers along so they can be compared along side the new ones to check that they are the same. You could also look at the Exmo pictures here http://nw.rhocar.org/identification.htm - does this look the same as your car?

If you've got 2 black / white wires at the indicator switch it sounds like Premier have used the wrong colour wire somewhere - as you say there should be a black / white and a black / green to connect to the switch. You need to do a continuity check to find out which of these 2 wires goes to the black / white in the nearside repeater and accessory point (8 way white plug from memory) and which one goes black / green wire in the offside repeater and accessory point. Basically each wire connected to the indicator switch (at L and R) breaks into 3 - one feeds the front indicator, one feeds the rear and the third does the side repeater. Sounds like Premier have used some wire of the wrong colour between the switch and the point that it breaks into 3.