Shaft

Good point raised by Andy above. Most (not all) tyres will have a 4 digit number usually in a raised box. This is the date code and is the week number and year. Eg... 3412 would translate into week 34 year 2012. HTH.

Plenty of 4 berth vans about that are well under 1300kg MPTLM.

Hundreds on the Bay Keith. Just check all over for damp, if it smells of air freshener be wary, check under all beds and in all the cupboards etc. Check everything works as it should. Biggest thing to look into is what can your car tow? and also, when did you pass your test as not everybody can tow certain weights etc. HTH,

You wouldn't go for size on the 1st cut though Bob. You'd rough trim then Polish back to size. I did all my GRP and Carbon using Diamond grit grinders mate, not a single miss cut.

As an aside for all peeps looking at trimming composite based materials, you don't want to be "cutting it" but simply using "abrasion" techniques. Diamond burrs as i mentioned above, flap wheels, belt Sanders etc will make very light work of the job. Composite is extremely tough and will wear out HSS, Cobalt and Carbide cutting tools in no time at all but it has extremely low resistance to abrasion. HTH.

You want a diamond grit coated 1/8th" Dia grinder bit for a Dremmel or similar. It'll be like a knife through butter. Like these..... http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00CE3YP9S/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/275-4922789-8111539

Weld the now unused holes up if your concerned.

Femi, from a machinists point of view it's preferential to machine the component in its annealed state and then heat treat post machining as Andy suggests.

Buy a small 2nd hand cnc router. I can set you up / program it etc. Google for 2nd hand Rye 3 axis Routers with Osai control systems. Would fit in your garage a treat if you sold the kit.

It's not been media blasted as it?

Spend the initial pennies on the welder. Get a cheap mask and upgrade as you go. In my opinion avoid gasless like the plaque! Once you start welding, practice, practice and practice. Cleanliness is the No 1 golden rule, rust and paint won't weld.

Happy Birthday Steamer, have a good day mate and I'll see you on Thursday.

It's had 11 bids so far as well... Another ringer that's going to get sold to an unsuspecting Joe Bloggs.

Hope you have a Brilliant Christmas Uncle Ian. Give Carole our love also.

I'm with Ian, just need to rid it of the usual electrical gremlins.

I'm a vet....

Why? It's not mine, I'll just do it at work.

Give me some dimensions and i can do the 3D Cad work for you. Currently using Catia V5 and Rhinoceros but can output in most formats for you.

Over tightening of the bearing. Not necessarily by the action of tightening the nut either, but if there's corrosion in the bearing seat within the hub it won't be bottoming correctly. This would cause over tightening when refitting the nut.

Nice work. Swap the Cap heads for dome heads and I'll pass it off for you buddy!

It'll do the job fine. Don't be misled by the bigger tanked cheap ones. They are the same power but take forever to get the pressure due to the extra volume.

Marcus, I used a company called Hose Solutions. Cracking help on the phone, made to measure and in a massive range of colours. Not the cheapest but would certainly use them again.

Just noticed..... I'm loving the colour co-ordinated foam mat to stand the bonnet on! Only you Terry, only you....

Top Man! Looks even better on the car. Did Terry like his surprise personalisation?

Real carbon fibre laid up on a properly finished mould will have the 'feel' of a piece of glass. If any carbon feels rough, it'll have poor resin content and be weak. Dry fibres cause this and are a big no no!