IanS

Standard fuel sender is earthed through the body of the tank. One wire went to guage and the other went to a fuel low light. Dash readout connected to the sender on one terminal with the other to a voltage regulator and to +12V.

short answere yes.

Do it right the first time. At least I got the wireing right, looking at a gearbox rebuild as I did not get that right.

Take out the studs holding it to the head. Remove the engine mount exhaust side (after putting a jack under the sump!) unbolt brake master cylinder from servo and lift about one inch. Then can be just jiggled out. At least this works for me.

My reaction is that above a certain air speed the cooling of a radiator plateaus out, depends on how many rows the rad has the more the higher the needed air speed. But 20 MPH through the rad should be near the max cooling any more air has little effect.

Harder part is getting the oil out of the lines to the jets. I am guessing that the old man found out when he cleaned the windscreen. Lots of fairy needed.

The dynamo is not intrinsically positive or negative earth. If it is a lucas with a seperate mechanical voltage regulator (some times called a control box) then all that is needed to change polatity is to flash the field winding. Positive earth was comon in the late 50s through the early sixties to allow the early transistor radios to work. The dynamo starts chargeing useing the residual magnetic field, if the residual field is wrong the dynamo will fairly rapidly discharge the battery. Flashing the dynamo (which should be done every time the dynamo is taken to bits) involves taking a wire from the battery live (negaitve if you have positive earth) to the field terminal on the dynamo and leaving it connected for about one second to establish the correct residual field.

Might be a good thing to move this to somewhere public so that prospective members can see it. IanS

Looking at the pics it is stainless so not a zintec which is zinc coated steel.

Is your engine and starter standard? if so use the same as ford used, measure the diameter of the copper to get the size. For most engines 25mmsq (about 170A) is adequate. The starter is very intermittant in operation and overloading for the short time you use it should not cause problems.

The Exmo kit had a pair of folded metal sleds loose to move on the floor of the engine bay. They had a pair of steel boxes welded in the middle which were the engine mounts. The instructions were to position the sleds to suit the engine and bolt into position on the engine bay floor. The standard saloon engine mounts (4 bolts to the engine) went to the rubber mounts as shown above which lowered into holes in the top of the boxes and were held in place with 2 captive bolts welded into the box. My doner was an 83 2l hatchback and between the doner and kit everything was suplied.

Sierra based mono kit. Narrow body so probably 93 to 95 originaly

I realise that you do not want to point fingers but I sure would like to know who to avoid.

Universal gas law. For a fixed amount of gas (sealed tyre) PV/T=Constant As the volume is near constant a 27 degree C temperature change is approx 10% (temperatures are zero at absolute zero) So the pressure change should be approx 10% (referenced to vacuum) 3psi change in 15psi atmosphere + 20psi tyre is a bit less but in the right region

As I said previously. Check body to battery earth. I have 25sqmm 400A wire battery -ve to starter mounting bolt. 6sqmm 100A wire battery -ve to body. 6sqmm 100A wire body to alternator mounting. So all main earths are properly bonded with some redundancy

Rubber is USA is condom. The quality of chinese rubber might explain the size of thier population

Bad earth from battery to body. Starts OK and charges Ok to battery to me says that the connection from engine block to battery negative is good so that leaves the connection to the body as bad.

Plastic spigot rings can distort. You can get alloy or stainless hub rings made to measure. As my plastic rings are shot I am about to order alloy rings from ej-parts.co.uk

normally soldered or crimped. In your example I would expect 2 joins, one behind the dash to the warning light and one at the side of the car to go to the front and back. Actually I woukd expect a third to the side repeater.

Be aware of the tax on anything purchased from the USA. Prices in the USA are nearly always before tax. Then there are the customs duties you get stung for.

Modern digital multi meters in voltage mode (as opposed to current mode) have an input impeadance of 10Mohms (i.e.bugger all). This will not damage any ECU provided that the 0V (earth) connection is made first to clear any static charge. In continuity mode it will output a limited current (it then measures the volts to give resistance) which will be below 5v and below 1mA. This is safe for any external connection to an ECU.

Free town hall thats a first

You say that you have 2 batteries. Try useing the big one to crank the engine and wire the other direct to the coil so that it only powers the sparks.

I had a sierra from the last year of production. The fuel guage was designed to stay reading when switched off, it drew no power to do this, quite a neat feature.

If it is 9MPH out at 60MPH then the error is 60/69 and the correct number will be 1624 times 60/69 which comes out at 1412. bearing in mind that the speedo must not under read 1400 would be safer. If the error is at any other speed then the above calculation could be modified to give a setting.