IanS

Lamda sensor? It is used to get the mixture right at low power settings and does not like exhaust sealant on it.

My standard one mounted like Hawknorth did finally snapped earlier this year after 69000 miles and nearly 17 years. I now have a Cosworth 2wd one.

Must post quicker. mist your reply when posting

My reaction is that it will lower the peak and spread it a bit. But as we are already running something like the 5th to 7th harmonic it wil make little difference in practice as what you lost in the peak you will almost gain in the slighty wider power band.

Are the plugs wet with petrol? If there are sparks then time to check if fuel is getting through.

Remember many years ago when I was a scout we had a bedford CE van that had been rebored. The engine kept locking up and stalling. Scout leader reconed that the job was a poor one but did not want to drag the engin out again and strip it so ran it a min oil level untill it loosened up. It lasted about 4 more years running better every year untill chasies rot killed it.

When measuring do it to the left hand (passenger) side as the engine and gearbox are offset to allow decent drivers foot room for peddles. If you try driving a caterham you will need slimmed down feet. When making my seats I only measured the drivers side and had to modify the passenger seat.

everyone going by motorway, how boreing (see civil engineers). USE THE BACK ROADS :diablo:

Why is it that the camping gear takes more room every year

I went to my local propper motor factors who had a Gates hose catalog. This lists all sorts of standard hoses, my top and bottom hoses could both be fitted with a single right angle bend. I measured the diameters of the rad connections and the water pump and thermostat connections ( top and bottom hoses) and approx lengths. It then took a short time to find over length hoses with the correct diameters which I cut down to length when fitting. The motor factors were able to get these in about 4 hours, very good service in my book.

Kitspares have the ones with DLR in £60 the pair

After working on the brakes always check that the pedel is firm BEFORE driving off, the sudden grab and prayer for the handbreak rubs this one in When checking electrical problems remember that volts to the bulb does not equal to volts away from the bulb, always check the earths. Heat is your friend when checking for poor electrical wireing, the poor joint gets hot, smoke though is taking this to the limit.

60watt head light is 5A so times 2=10A. Side lights 0.5A each so 2A total. ECU approx 2A Fuel pumps a couple of amps. wipers 5A So total load approx 20A at night with rain coming down. A bit over to put the starter current back into the battery. As zerorace says 40A is plenty

Coil over shocks were an option with the kit. The trouble was that the bushes were sized for a bike not a car and thus needed frequent repalcement mini rear shock bushes will fit but wont last. It is better to repalce with Gaz which have bushes that last.

Most smiths senders have a single wire so I am guessing that the sender you have is for the ecu. typically 3 wires are brown positive supply often 5V from ECU Black signal to ECU Blue 0V from ECU

If you are checking the head dont forget to check the block. I have seen more than one head that had no gasket problems skimmed to raise the CR and then found that the block was also warped, they had warped together and so had no problems untill one was "corrected".

This could be R Stewart (boss and owner of robin hood sportscars) and his keep it cheep ideas. Take a 20 inch sierra wiper blabe and cut it in 2 then drill a hole in each cut off bit and bolt to cut down sierra wiper arms. Any thing to keep the sticker price down. Suprisingly it worked when the bits under the dash were modded a bit.

I have seen a robin hood that had 3 wipers to give coverage accros the full width. Apparently cut the tube and fitted a third wheel box. This was over 10 years ago and I struggle to remember which way they parked

I went electric pump plus mechanical pump. Push button to run the lecy pump and prime. Mechanical pump takes over when running so no need for cut off relay etc. as lecy pump only used to start.

A long shot but some time ago (35 years) I had this prob on a ford 105E. Standing for a couple of months, started and then dead. Turned out to be water in the tank, rain had got in whilst standing, plugs were wet but did not smell right.

Dont forget that having a warning light has only recently (to an oldie like me) been a requirement. Older cars have not been required to be retrofitted.

Is there power getting to the guage? Depending on the regulator you should see volts at the battery connector of the guage. Modern regulators typically give 8V here, older bimetal regulators will show switching between 0V and 12V to 14V (depending on battery charge) here.

Talking of pink antifreeze it appears to eat thermostats. My wifes car ran cold the first winter we had it, temp guage just off the cold end. I replaced the thermostat and engine temp back to normal and engine management light off. Ran great through the year until the next winter when the same happened. I have now replaced the thermostat 4 times in 5 years (waiting for this winter) Has this happened to anyone else? P.S. this is the first car we had with pink antifreeze

I have been running an leaded head 2L pinto for 10 years on unleaded. Done 40,000 miles plus and no sign of valve seat regression. On the other hand its your money.

Intremittant problems are the worst to find. I suspect that you have a bad earth (bad power normally blows fuses). I would suspect one off the megajolt earths. -Ian