sj-bradley

This sounds like the old style gauges which rely on a heating element inside it. The sender may not be sinking enough current to work the gauge. I can make something to work between these, but I do need to see them myself. Simon.

Hall effect is the physics behind the speedometer sensors that detect the bolts on the diff moving past it. It's a three wire type sensor that doesn't need magnets gluing to the prop shaft. So, it a non contact magnetic sensor that sends out pulses which the speedo counts. Simon.

I looked at that and it looks like a two wire job (The case is earthed - that's the second wire) so it's probably a thermistor. However, it doesn't give me the specs on the temperature range or what the resistance ranges it should be. In order for me to be able to tell you if it matches your gauge, I would need to measure the resistance when cold, hot etc as well as the max current that your gauge needs when shorted to ground. I did a quick search and thermistors can come in two types, positive and negative depending on whether their resistance goes up or down with increasing temperature. I could design a circuit that would make that sensor work with your gauge, but I would need to see it. And don't fear the price. It would be no more than a 4 pack of beer Simon.

No, worst case is it gets pulled off leaving a hole where all the gearbox oil eventually works its way out. So if you suddenly have no speedo, check you don't also have an oil leak too. I found this out even though my sensor is the hall effect on the diff type. I forgot to block the hole where the speedo originally went and wondered where are the oil on the garage floor came from ... Simon.

Temperature sensors can be one of these 1) thermocouple (unlikely) 2) Thermistor (probable) 3) an active device like LM335 (if there are three wire going to it, it's probably active) Each produces an entirely different type of output. Simon.

Yes, the sender needs to match the clocks you use. This applies to fuel gauges and the temperature sensor too. It depends on what the sender is doing. If it's just changing resistance. you can check this out with the Ohms setting on your meter. I could then tell you if your sender is actually working (It probably is, but your meter is expecting something different) Simon.

Okay, I do not know this engine, but the point about the pressure sensor is still valid I think? An may be that the pulled wire only looks like it came from the other side. Wires are strange things. You coil them neatly and put in a box only to find it's a rat's nest the following day - Weird Simon.

Sounds more like the crank sensor cable if it's near the bottom end of the engine. As you say, an oil pressure sensor should not stop it from starting. Simon.

Raising the engine has several problems. 1) some things will interfere with parts of the body. 2) Gear lever may hit top of tunnel. 3) rear of gearbox will be lower hitting that part of the tunnel 4) (as you said) poor prop shaft direction 5) Higher centre of gravity of the whole car 6) rather large bonnet hump 7) no room left for the supercharger .... I fitted the raceline sump even though it's expensive as it is flush with the bottom of the car. You will also need to cut off the lower part of the gearbox so that it is flush with the sump bottom. Do this off the car - it's easier (How do I know this? I had to cut this off by hand with a hacksaw after the engine was fitted - took hours but built muscles I didn't know existed !) Simon.

It may be a false test as it may work correctly off the car. You may have partially blocked fuel pipes / filters on the car, but not off it. ? Simon.

(a side step here) Hmm, interesting point about deadlines you mention. I was wondering if such a deadline exists for the Fog light requirements that it may eventually require a controlling circuit? Simon.

Okay, I knew that. I did mention leading and trailing above, I just forgot that they are called "shoes" not "pads" ! A bit of brain fade there. (Not had the 'dubious' pleasure of brake fade yet though ) Simon.

I think it sounds like brake pad grab. Brake shoes are usually trailing type. The drums have only one cylinder so one of them is the leading type. They must be on the correct way round or else you can get this brake snatch phenomenon. If you have put these on the wrong way round, the drum could snatch the brake pad pulling it hard on into contact. It then drops out when the wheel stops until you get it spinning up again. This was why you thought the brakes were free when you spun them by hand.

Before you dismantle the brakes, take a photo and then check that the pad are on the right way up and possibly even on the right side. I thought it had to be them from your earlier description of the problem. Nowt like not being able to see wood for the trees in the way! Simon.

Did you install the brake pads the right way round? If one wheel is still spinning and the other stopped, the spinning wheel is going at twice the normal speed which may add to the load on the engine significantly feeling like a power loss. It sounds like the pads are getting snatched up and causing excess drag. Did the drums feel hot at the time? Simon.

The drone failure won't have been uplink, but rather more like the on board gyroscopic accelerometer having a glitch / loose wire making it think it was on its side when it actually wasn't I was watching it when it suddenly took off out of sight. Simon.

I remember Gearbox UK where I got my reconditioned MT75 for £300 cash. Mind, that was 3+ years ago. Mind you, it's also down the road from me in Armthorpe and I picked it up in the back of the car. Simon.

If it is Tempered - BIN it. Seriously, it will be hazardous to your eyesight. Ask on here for members with horror stories if you're not convinced. Simon.

Best wishes to him from me too. Going to make school work hard though and ruin the summer holidays Just wait until the itching starts under the casts ... Simon.

I picked up an air rivet gun from ebay for around £35. But I did manage to do most of the riveting using a simple hand held one which can get into tight spaces better, Cleco fasteners which are temporary rivet holders are invaluable in assisting you to hold panels in place while drilling the rest of the holes. You can see me using these in my web site especially when I was fitting the rear panel with the awkward bends etc. Simon.

Yes, I've got an unused one and was wondering what to do with it. The plug exits out the rear and not at right angle as seen on the ebay ad. Came from the black top zetec engine inlet manifold so may be slightly different? Simon.

Would it be worth putting up a "Lost and Found" post or section? Simon.

You didn't get what I meant. To get a required 2.5 mm radius, you need sheet metal 5mm thick to begin with. Anything thinner would mean that at some point the radius (radii ?) would not comply with a 2.5mm radius. Simon.

Glad to hear that you got back ok though. I was starting to wonder You were right about it clearing shortly after though. I did see an accident later on between an HGV and a Peugot (I think) which looked like it had been pushed sideways down the road. All was in hand with the emergency services already and it looked like everyone walked out of it. I'll review my camera footage, but I think it was after the battery had died ... Simon.

Just wondered if my little bottle of water got you home after I had stopped to give you a hand. (Sorry, can't remember names very well as it takes me several attempts sometimes ) Hopefully, you know who you are ... Simon.