knights_templar

second Mcramsay and lotuspaul its a known problem with the Pinto, and other engines, with rubber valve stem seals.

http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8/V8%20engine%20number%20reference%20R7%2030.11.07.pdf any use ? again agree with theduck

Its an age thing, the engine age that is, prove it is older than April 1995 and you just have to adjust mixtures as above. If you cant prove the age you need to meet current emissions standards, that may be a little more interesting.

agree with theduck

a compression check does not check the oil rings, so is of no use. 130 is lowish but if even is not a problem, I agree with philshelton

which loom do you have?

The Omex I played with did everything in seconds. but if I remember correctly the serial link speed was a problem. The ECU expects things in a certain order at a certain time, the link speed, and if you are using a serial to USB converter, the type of chip that it has fitted, is important.

Float sunk ?

3 what ?

Does anyone know of one bigger than the 2.0 ltr with the same stud pattern? The only draw back with the plenham is it can run out of air at high rpm, although this is above torque curve, and for drivers like me, who are adverse to valve bounce, it won't make any difference, probably a good thing really self restriction :-)

Ford 2.0 ltr Zetec they were selling

It depends on the carb, some have air bleed mixture controls, others have fuel mixture controls, as a rule of thumb, air bleeds are usually the same side as the air cleaner, fuel type nearer the engine. Air bleed is, out leaner, and in richer, fuel type is out richer and in leaner. but as tractor says, you need a rolling road session to get it right.

GBS did a back plate so you could fit a piper cross. no idea if they still do

Diodes are one way valves, meaning the current will flow one way and not the other. Why you have one in circuit would be down to the alternator. ignition goes to warning light and through the field winding of the alternator, light on, as the alternator charges the earth goes and there is on circuit, light off, the diode would stop a back feed through the warning light. should still work.

Yep Ohms law, but is a car a normal circuit. how many times do we get an engine turning over slowly, and find a poor earth, resistance may be the wrong term I agree. Poor connections tend to heat up, heat uses power.

Agree with megadodo think you have a high resistance somewhere

I might of misinterpreted your post, and I don't know how you are testing this. But you mention that you have a 28 amp draw with lights on, four side light bulbs and two headlight bulbs should be about 12.5 amps plus a little for your dash illumination say 15 max. so why 28 amps? before you start pushing more into the circuit, I would check you do not have a resistance somewhere, giving you these readings.

They are, but how easy will depend on prop maker. Ford original, had the joint peened in, I have heard of them being changed, but you would have to be certain the u/j caps will not get out free refitting. Sencible ones have a circlip retainer, so it's just a matter of getting the prop off and in a vice, but there I a technique to make replacement easier.

Duck's solution is like second diagram, constant live to relay. Sorry if my setup is confusing, as I mentioned it is for a Zero setup with savage switch, but it will work. Can make it less Zero if you want, but will take a few days, work commitments.

You can do it with that switch, and one flasher relay, but you will have to put the flasher relay onto constant live. You will also need a couple of diodes. Two pole switch is better, no chance of leaving the flashers on, one pole switches on the power, the other the indicators, again you need diodes. https://mega.nz/#!G5wXnRjJ!nJtiZ8cUvMfYQll5I-69UxRBYU7fMhsQyVM1PmkXv-o Shows the two version, pin numbers on left are for the zero P&P loom, but it should be easy enough to connect it up.

Type 9 has a fork on the pivot end and the type 75, has a ball coupling so unfortunately they are not interchangeable. The I don't think the transit ones are suitable either, but that is from a conversation I had once with Richard at GBS, might have the wrong end of the stick.

Can look it up for your car if you like, when back at work tomorrow, if you pm reg

Sorry to here that. Must agree with mcramsay, but if no one is able to fathom the wiring, you may be left with those options. We are all good at diagnosing from afar, and we have not actually seen what you have, but anything is usually fixable given time and a little knowledge. The time is the big factor, and if you need to use a professional, the most costly part. And not always the best option, remember you have a one off,a Bespoke setup, no info, no diagrams, and to be fair, no professional will have training for that scenario. It I a case of costing your options, but I would also include, the DIY option, using help from this and other forums, you will just need to be prepared to have a go, research, and ask questions, but you are free, it'd just a case of your time, and how much you cost that. Sorry if not much help.

agree with theduck,

no b&*$$y spelling correction on my pad.